Kitchen remodel conundrum

[atgcpaul]

Maybe ya'll can help me get past my "kitchen block". I'm done most of the aesthetic things in the kitchen remodel except for one last set of drawer fronts and doors, skinning the side of two cabinets with high pressure laminate, replacing or covering over the old toe kicks, and painting some face frames--nothing that prevents us from actually using the kitchen. The last major hurdles are finishing off the sink and installing countertops.

I bought an undermount apron sink to replace the double bowl drop in sink we have now. This means I've got to disconnect all the plumbing connections, remove the sink and cut out that section of countertop (it's a laminate countertop), and modify the base cabinet to make the sink sit just shy of the cabinet tops. Even if I were VERY motivated, we're probably days without a usable kitchen sink (or dishwasher). The only other sink on this floor is the powder room and we have a utility sink in the basement next to the washer. I'd say that's conundrum #1.



Conundrum #2 is the countertop. We're replacing the laminate counters with IKEA wood butcher block tops. As you can see from the pics, it's a U-shaped kitchen so all the tops except for the one to the right of the stove butt up against each other. I essentially have to simultaneously work on all the tops instead of working piecemeal. I'd also be more comfortable removing the old tops (I already unscrewed them from the bases) and measuring/marking with the new tops in place rather than trying to transfer measurements. I guess the pros template the top (or use lasers and a computer), but that probably happens with the old counters off, right? The old tops also have a built-in backsplash so it makes getting a real measurement difficult.

Let's take it as a given that the following things won't change: We're sticking with the apron sink and wood countertops. How would you approach this if, for arguments sake, you couldn't hire it out?

Thanks,
Paul

[JimD]

I get every other Friday off so the first thing I would do is to wait for one of my three day weekends. I don't think it will take three days but I always want extra time. It helps me keep from getting anxious when I run into difficulties. Next I would get materials on-hand. Running to the store wastes tremendous amounts of time. You need plumbers putty, clear caulk, a good jig saw, sander with sand paper, and I would have extra P-traps and straight pieces. They don't cost much and you can take them back if you don't need them. You also need finish for the wood top. I don't know what is OK to use on a wood countertop but you will need to seal up the edges you cut for the sink. Everything you can think of that you might need.

When the long weekend comes, I would remove all the countertops first. Then I would cut the piece where the sink goes. I would fit it to the space first. Then I would cut it for the sink and install the sink. After that is completely done, I would worry about the two side pieces. My theory is that you could put anything, the old countertop, a piece of plywood or whatever, over the other cabinets for a few days if you run out of time. What you want to do is get the sink back in service.

It isn't the same but hopefully to encourage you, I took out an old sink, significantly increased the size of the opening, and put in a new sink in our condo in half a day a couple weekends ago. The old sink had two very little bowls and a garbage disposal. The new sink is much deeper and several inches deeper and it has only one outlet - so it got the garbage disposal. So I had to mess around with the plumbing possibly more than you will have to. I made at least 3 trips back to the home center. But I got it done in well under a day. I think you can get the sink back in service in one day and do the other counters the next. Working on an existing countertop, I found my HF oscillating saw very useful. I also used my Bosch jigsaw where I could.

[vaking]

To my knowledge Ikea no longer makes real butcher block countertops. They used to, but then they discontinued them. The stuff they sell now only has about 1/8" buther block surface but actual countertop material is particle board. I would not use this material around the sink, especially undermount sink.
I actually have Ikea butcher block countertop in one area of the kitchen. I have a main countertop laminate (it has sink and stove) and an additional section where we eat and can use as extra cutting space when needed. The extra section is butcher block - I did not want to eat on laminate. I bought the last piece Ikea had of their original beech countertop on clearance and I finished it with waterlox. It holds well, although waterlox finish takes several days to apply and cure.
I don't know how straight walls are in your kitchen - mine were pretty curved. I scribed my countertop to make sure it lines with the wall without gaps (the butcher block section has no backsplash to hide imperfections).
I stand corrected - they sell 1-/8" thick solid beech contertops. The ones that are 1-1/2" are particle board.

[twistsol]

You could set it up so it is easy to remove and reinstall the old countertops while you measure and fit the new ones. If you can get the old countertops out in tact, cut them into manageable sections, 4-5 feet and when you're done for the day, set them back in place to have a functional kitchen. Leave the existing sink mounted in a section of counter and disconnect and reconnect as necessary. If you don't have shutoff valves easily accessible under the sink, they should be added. Garbage disposal if you have one should have a plug connection permanently or temporarily as code permits. It is added work but it may placate your wife while you complete the project at a reasonable pace.

If you can't get the old countertops out in tact, replace with plywood temporarily.

[atgcpaul]

Thanks guys. I've done some plumbing like installing sinks before but it's always after I uninstalled the old one and usually takes 3 trips to HD to get it right. Actually planning ahead and making sure I'm not missing anything is the real trick. I never seem to know what size pipe to get. And then there's the challenge (or not) of going from 2 drains down to one. Yes, I've got a disposal.

The IKEA countertops are indeed real butcherblock. I actually bought them in Spring 2014 and they've been propped up against my garage doors since then. I had planned on using Waterlox since that seems to be the go to finish for butcherblock but now I'm thinking General Finishes Enduro-Var since it will stink much less, dry faster, and I can spray it on. Seems like several people have been going this route, too.

I will be doing a tile backsplash so if the wall is really out, I won't really need to scribe the back of the countertop.

My wife is used to plywood countertops. In our last house, we had them for about a year while I finished the rest of the kitchen. Eventually the ply was the underlayment for a new granite tile countertop.

[atgcpaul]

Here's how the countertops will be laid out. The cutout is the sink and to the right of that little short section is the stove and then another short section of countertop (which I didn't show).



So the question. The IKEA tops have a small bevel on all the edges. The major complaint I've read is that crud gets stuck in the valley where the two countertops meet. To avoid this, I was thinking about doing the following joint. IIRC, I've seen Norm do this on a smaller scale when doing window muttons. On the longer board, I would rip off the bevel and cut a 45deg miter to meet up with the newly mitered edge (or the other way around). On the mating piece I'd cut off the end bevel and cut the corresponding 45.



Sounds simple enough, but how would you accomplish this or is there another solution to get rid of that valley without resorting to wood putty? I also don't want to completely rip off the front edges because I want the full counter depth.


Thanks,
Paul

[JimD]

I can't think of a way that avoids handwork entirely. A track saw could cut most of the way to the miter but not the entire way. A handsaw could finish it but I'd want to leave wood for a shoulder plane. One end of my Stanley comes off so you can go to a corner like this. You could get closer to the miter with a router on the track. I have the DeWalt attachment for the track but I haven't tried it yet. If you used a router, you could get within a fraction of an inch to be cleaned up with a chisel or plane.

[atgcpaul]

I can't think of a way that avoids handwork entirely. A track saw could cut most of the way to the miter but not the entire way. A handsaw could finish it but I'd want to leave wood for a shoulder plane. One end of my Stanley comes off so you can go to a corner like this. You could get closer to the miter with a router on the track. I have the DeWalt attachment for the track but I haven't tried it yet. If you used a router, you could get within a fraction of an inch to be cleaned up with a chisel or plane.

The Dewalt track saw is on its way as well as the router guide. I will have to practice this cut on scrap first. Yeah, I can't think of way to do this without handtools. I'm not worried about that, but just wish it wasn't towards the show side. Even with the blade at full depth, there's still going to be a scallop which will have to be cut back. I will probably use a guide to cut that little miter. I have a little 45deg block I made for my chisel that I'll use to make it perfect--I hope.

[JimD]

I would either practice on scrap or leave the counter a little long so I could cut off a failed attempt and still have enough counter.