Replace snow blower carburetor

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  • trungdok
    Established Member
    • Oct 2012
    • 235
    • MA

    Replace snow blower carburetor

    There had been lots of snow around my area lately -- over 35" of snow one week, followed by another 8", then soon another 12" -- AND the snow blower would not start. So, I braved myself on opening up the carburetor and see if I can clean it. Turned out it is pretty beat. Looking at replacement parts and it seems that it would be easier to just replace the whole carburetor. This is where my lack of knowledge holding me back. I'm hoping someone with enough knowledge on the matter could shine some light on a few questions:

    1) I can't find the part number for it, so I'm thinking maybe I could use another carburetor for the engine with the same hp and look the same as mine?

    2) My carburetor is an adjustable jet type. Would I be able to use the fixed jet type? What are the advantage and disadvantage of one vs the other?

    Oh, my blower is a White Outdoor Snow Boss 850 (8hp). I got myself an electric snow blower for light snow, but would need this gas powered one to get through the packed snow that the plow leaves behind.

    Thanks,
    Trung
  • woodturner
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2008
    • 2047
    • Western Pennsylvania
    • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

    #2
    Originally posted by trungdok
    1) I can't find the part number for it, so I'm thinking maybe I could use another carburetor for the engine with the same hp and look the same as mine?
    There should be a part number on the carb body, it's best to find the number and get the exact or an equivalent replacement part.

    They are interchangeable to a degree, but "just any one" will not work, or at least not well.
    --------------------------------------------------
    Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

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    • All Thumbs
      Established Member
      • Oct 2009
      • 322
      • Penn Hills, PA
      • BT3K/Saw-Stop

      #3
      So is there no manufacturer that can lookup part #'s by the model # of the snow blower?

      Comment

      • capncarl
        Veteran Member
        • Jan 2007
        • 3564
        • Leesburg Georgia USA
        • SawStop CTS

        #4
        Most part suppliers will not even start looking up a part # without the blower model #. When using places like ereplacement parts it works best with the equip # as well. Ive gone the route to find my equip # and use that exploded view and find the part reference # to use someone else's database for the part I needed.

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        • trungdok
          Established Member
          • Oct 2012
          • 235
          • MA

          #5
          Thanks Woodturner. That made me feel better about ordering the part.

          All Thumbs, unfortunately there is no model number on the blower. The sticker fell off a long time ago.

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          • capncarl
            Veteran Member
            • Jan 2007
            • 3564
            • Leesburg Georgia USA
            • SawStop CTS

            #6
            Try model # 314-646F190. It looks like the parts manuals list every nut and bolt but not the engine! You might have to resort to old technology, telephone! I've had good luck with Jacks. Phone person to person may be the best route!
            Another alternative would be to drop a harbor freight motor on there to get the job done, it might not be much more than the parts cost and would get the wife off your back. You may also find a used engine on Craigslist or a small lawnmower shop .

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            • woodturner
              Veteran Member
              • Jun 2008
              • 2047
              • Western Pennsylvania
              • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

              #7
              Originally posted by trungdok
              All Thumbs, unfortunately there is no model number on the blower.
              What brand is the engine? You may be able to find the metal nameplate riveted to the engine. Given some part number, you should be able to find compatible parts.
              --------------------------------------------------
              Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

              Comment

              • Zip1
                Forum Newbie
                • Dec 2004
                • 19
                • Milwaukee, WI, USA.

                #8
                Small engines rarely have numbers on individual parts. You need to find the engine Model number, Type number (if it's a Briggs) and serial number typically found on the sheet metal housing of the engine, if you want to find the exact replacement.

                Typically you can purchase a rebuild kit that would include all rubber, gaskets and wear pieces if you have the model info above.

                Assuming this is a 4-stroke engine (you don't mix oil and gas), then yes, you can typically swap parts from a similar engine, make sure it is a winter rated engine.

                Fixed jet carburetors have replaced adjustable to meet stricter environmental standards. If you have the knowledge to adjust the carburetor properly they each provide equivalent performance. An adjustable carburetor can be helpful if you have poor quality fuel or have significant wear on the engine.

                Once you have the engine model info, you can typically Google for parts and prices.
                Most hardware stores stock or can order small engine parts if you have the same info.

                If you purchase a rebuild kit, it would be advisable to get some spray carb cleaner (not the pour in the fuel type) to clean all the internal crevices.
                Last edited by Zip1; 02-11-2015, 05:02 PM.

                Comment

                • RAV2
                  Established Member
                  • Aug 2007
                  • 233
                  • Massachusetts
                  • 21829

                  #9
                  Lots to share here.....

                  Go to the engine manufacturers web sit and find the 'where's my model #' info.

                  Lately replacements from amazon are cheaper than rebuilding. One one recent blower, I bought a replacement carb for $18 delivered!

                  On another more valuable 1996 blower, I ultrasonically cleaned it in heated solution for 2 hours and could not clear the blockage. $40 later for a Briggs carb kit with gaskets,clamps and hoses (including assorted linkages). Its gobbling up snow. Shouda gone the replacement right away!

                  Comment

                  • jabe
                    Senior Member
                    • Apr 2006
                    • 566
                    • Hilo, Hawaii
                    • Ryobi BT3000 & Delta Milwaukee 10" tilting Table circular saw

                    #10
                    log on to you tube, got a lot of help/info from "Donny boy". Got a lot of small engine parts on Amazon just need make & model#s. replacementparts.com is a good source too.

                    Comment

                    • trungdok
                      Established Member
                      • Oct 2012
                      • 235
                      • MA

                      #11
                      Just an update.

                      Received the new carburetor (adjustable jet just like the original) a while back but have neither the time nor good weather (been freezing cold) to put it in. Last week I finally put it in. It looks and fit exactly like the original carburetor. Now the engine idles nicely after a quick adjustment to the idle needle. However, the engine still would not run on full throttle. It still would surge and die after a while. No matter how much I adjust the high speed needle, it still won't run. *infinite sadness*

                      Thought of replacing the engine with an HF 6.5 hp engine, but upon a quick look I have a dual shaft engine. HF does not have a dual shaft engine. *double infinite sadness*

                      Maybe when the weather gets nicer I'll empty the tank, clean the carb, put in fresh gas, and try again.
                      Last edited by trungdok; 02-26-2015, 05:01 PM.

                      Comment

                      • capncarl
                        Veteran Member
                        • Jan 2007
                        • 3564
                        • Leesburg Georgia USA
                        • SawStop CTS

                        #12
                        Is your gas tank remote mounted or affixed to the bottom of the carb? Have you really really cleaned it? If you have a remote gas tank, did you replace/add an inline fuel filter? if it a bottom mount tank, did you clean the filter on the pick up tube? Sounds like you already sucked up a piece of trash in the new carb. and blocked the main jet. I don't remember exactly but I thinks he carb has a main jet with the high speed jet to just add the correct amount to fine tune it.

                        Comment

                        • trungdok
                          Established Member
                          • Oct 2012
                          • 235
                          • MA

                          #13
                          I'm hoping that is the case. The tank is a remote mount. I'm going to try to do that. Hopefully that's all there is.

                          Comment

                          • mpc
                            Senior Member
                            • Feb 2005
                            • 979
                            • Cypress, CA, USA.
                            • BT3000 orig 13amp model

                            #14
                            Just for giggles, try running the engine at full power with the gas cap removed. As gas flows out of the tank, air has to enter to make up the volume. If the gas cap's little vent system is plugged, a vacuum will build up in the tank and reduce fuel flow to the carb.

                            Anything that restricts fuel flow the carb will also make the engine run poorly at high power. Typically, fuel-to-carb restrictions result in symptoms like:

                            * engine will idle fine, run okay at lower power settings.

                            * at high power, the engine may run okay for a few seconds and then begin to struggle - basically initially running okay from the fuel inside the carb... once that fuel burns down and can't be replaced because of the restricted supply hose the air:fuel ratio gets messed up and the engine will run poorly. Eventually the carb will be nearly empty of fuel and the engine will stall. If the issue is vacuum building up in the fuel tank - from bad vents in the gas cap - the engine will probably run at high power for a few minutes before struggling as it takes a while for vacuum to build up in the tank. The engine will actually struggle faster if the tank is almost full of gas --> little air volume remaining so vacuum can build up quickly. If the tank is almost empty, burning off some fuel won't generate a vacuum as quickly with more air volume. If the engine runs poorly for a few seconds or few minutes before dying, you can double-check the cap is the culprit by waiting for the engine to struggle and then remove the cap - if the cap is the problem the engine will perk right up.

                            * if the engine won't even reach full power for a second before running poorly, then it's more likely a fuel metering issue inside the carb: wrong jet sizes, blocked jets, etc instead of an issue with tank-to-carb fuel delivery.

                            Dirty air filters or other restrictions limiting airflow into the engine will also cause high-power running issues.

                            mpc
                            Last edited by mpc; 02-28-2015, 12:39 AM.

                            Comment

                            • woodturner
                              Veteran Member
                              • Jun 2008
                              • 2047
                              • Western Pennsylvania
                              • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

                              #15
                              Originally posted by trungdok
                              No matter how much I adjust the high speed needle, it still won't run.
                              Don't know if this is your issue or will help, but on lawn mowers I have had trouble with high speed running when the "regulator" needs to be cleaned.

                              On a push lawn mower, what I am calling the "regulator" is a spring loaded cam-like assembly, typically on the opposite side of the engine from the carb. The regulator controls the butterfly in the carb to increase the flow of gas when the engine is placed under load. They tend to get clogged up with grass, dirt, and gunk and stick, which keeps them from moving freely. The result is the engine stalls at higher RPM.
                              --------------------------------------------------
                              Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

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