I am in the process of putting up an above ground pool. The 'pad' is ready and the pool will go up today. Other than the obvious enjoyment and relaxation it allow the wife a way to exercise.
To make access easier for her I am going to build a 5x8 deck. Deck building is a new endeavor for me.
Drawings were done with Lowe's Deck Designer and did not give me the flexibility to incorporate changes to the framework that I want. The program's cost estimate is $1050 - $1104 but I think I can bring it in for far less.
Basic Design. I plan to move the outside posts to the corners, use 4x4x8' so they will also become part of the rails. The inside posts will be positioned as close to the side of the pool as practical and still avoid any contact form the flex of the sides. The program would not allow the steps to be drawn less than 3' but they will be 2' 6" so she can easily hold on to both rail caps.
The second pic is a parts diagram that comes up in the printout and is included to make sure the same terminology is used by everyone.
Known cost savings. (I clicked on the treated wood option for all the wood components and some high cost baluster materials just to speed up the design process.)
1. I have access to some Trex decking that has some tar on it that I can get for 50% of retail. I used some for the edge of the pad' area and Goo Gone cleans the tar of with a little elbow grease. I will cut the planks to length and task her with that while I build the framework.
2. Balusters will be made from 1/2" conduit at >$1.50 for a 10' stick. (I already have a modified spade bit as recommended by Loring from building my wood rack).
3. Use SPF (a.k.a. Whitewood) for the handrails and framework components that are not in contact with the ground. The only thing I don't like about this is having the treated 4x4 extending up to be part of the rail supports is going to cause stain match problems.
4. Use Portland cement and 'mix my own' for the post footers and contact pads at the bottom of the stair stringers. I have a mixer and enough sand and gravel left over from a past project.
Questions.
Would using one of these allow me to safely use untreated 4x4 for the posts?
http://www.lowes.com/pd_15897-71255-...are&facetInfo=
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
Any graceful way to end joint treated and nontreated 4x4's so the posts above the deck would match the material in the rails and still provide treated contact at the ground. Possibly a tenon in the treated part to a mortise in the non treated positioned so the beam would screw to both sides of the joint to add strength? The same idea could be applied to the stair stringers.
Any other cost cutting ideas or caveats I need to watch for?
To make access easier for her I am going to build a 5x8 deck. Deck building is a new endeavor for me.
Drawings were done with Lowe's Deck Designer and did not give me the flexibility to incorporate changes to the framework that I want. The program's cost estimate is $1050 - $1104 but I think I can bring it in for far less.
Basic Design. I plan to move the outside posts to the corners, use 4x4x8' so they will also become part of the rails. The inside posts will be positioned as close to the side of the pool as practical and still avoid any contact form the flex of the sides. The program would not allow the steps to be drawn less than 3' but they will be 2' 6" so she can easily hold on to both rail caps.
The second pic is a parts diagram that comes up in the printout and is included to make sure the same terminology is used by everyone.
Known cost savings. (I clicked on the treated wood option for all the wood components and some high cost baluster materials just to speed up the design process.)
1. I have access to some Trex decking that has some tar on it that I can get for 50% of retail. I used some for the edge of the pad' area and Goo Gone cleans the tar of with a little elbow grease. I will cut the planks to length and task her with that while I build the framework.
2. Balusters will be made from 1/2" conduit at >$1.50 for a 10' stick. (I already have a modified spade bit as recommended by Loring from building my wood rack).
3. Use SPF (a.k.a. Whitewood) for the handrails and framework components that are not in contact with the ground. The only thing I don't like about this is having the treated 4x4 extending up to be part of the rail supports is going to cause stain match problems.
4. Use Portland cement and 'mix my own' for the post footers and contact pads at the bottom of the stair stringers. I have a mixer and enough sand and gravel left over from a past project.
Questions.
Would using one of these allow me to safely use untreated 4x4 for the posts?
http://www.lowes.com/pd_15897-71255-...are&facetInfo=
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
Any graceful way to end joint treated and nontreated 4x4's so the posts above the deck would match the material in the rails and still provide treated contact at the ground. Possibly a tenon in the treated part to a mortise in the non treated positioned so the beam would screw to both sides of the joint to add strength? The same idea could be applied to the stair stringers.
Any other cost cutting ideas or caveats I need to watch for?
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