Now the garage door opener needs fixin!

[radhak]

When it rains, it pours!

My garage door opener stopped working yesterday, and after I slapped it around (put on manual mode by pulling that cord, opened it couple of times, etc), it works now.

Reason could be this bent central railing, or the frayed belt :


(see the rail bent substantially? should ideally have been between the two belts)


(from below)


(the rubber cover to the belt is frayed/broken at places)

Funnily, it still works, though much more noisily. The first time I got it running this morning, it gave a loud bang that startled me, but after that, just general grinding.

So the question is - can this be repaired, or should I get a new one? And for either option, call-a-pro or DIY? The sears website has a bunch of reviews by people who installed some openers from scratch themselves, and I'd only need to replace an existing installation.

I'm thinking replacing with a similar craftsman 1/2 HP unit would help me replace just some parts of it and not have to worry about replacing the whole shebang (the motion detectors on the door sides, the roller on the top, etc). Of course, not sure if this central rail (it's an assembly of three pieces of metal tubes, squarish in cross section) comes with every new unit.

While at that, this 1/2 HP has served for the two-car door for 7 years, so no reason to want a 3/4 HP one....right?

[LCHIEN]

open it up and take a look at the plastic gears. If they are shot -severely worn out - go to sears parts website and figure out which kit you need to buy...

[chopnhack]

The first thing I would ask is was someone trying to break in? Did the door get jammed while closing with a disabled safety stop? As for replacement parts vs. new, check the website and see if the parts are 30 percent or less the price of a new unit. Given the age i wouldn't want to put much money into the old one.

[cabinetman]

The first thing I would ask is was someone trying to break in? Did the door get jammed while closing with a disabled safety stop? As for replacement parts vs. new, check the website and see if the parts are 30 percent or less the price of a new unit. Given the age i wouldn't want to put much money into the old one.

That makes sense. It wouldn't be like installing the parts the first time, especially if you re-used much from the old one. If the 3/4 HP is similar in hardware as the 1/2 HP, I would spring for the 3/4 HP.

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[radhak]

I changed the plastic gear two years ago. I'm guessing this must purely because of the bent railing. I think the guess of the door getting jammed is correct : happened thrice last month when the huge trash can was partly in the way of the door - maybe that caused it.

Has anybody done this yourself - is this something that's as simple as removing the current box and bolting in the new one with some electrical connections to be made?

If nothing else, I'm hoping at least the spring/roller at the top of the door (on the inside) will not need to change. I'm told that should be definitely done by a professional.

[cabinetman]

If nothing else, I'm hoping at least the spring/roller at the top of the door (on the inside) will not need to change. I'm told that should be definitely done by a professional.

You are right about that. I've done it, and it's dangerous as all get out. I will say this...if you know the technique, you could do it. But, it's one of those procedures that are best left to those that do them all the time. You can lose your face if the spring lets go.

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[LCHIEN]

you don't want to mess with the coiled springs that counter the door weight. They're under a great deal of tension and can mess you up if you don't know exactly what you are doing.

Maybe if all is lost(e.g. you're thinking of replacing the whole opener), just try pushing at the bent point on the rail and see if you can't straighten it up again, if you can it'll probably be OK. This is assuming what ever even bent it is gone now and won't be back.

I think it would work if the rail is mild steel. The rail should be well anchored over the door but maybe not quite as well at the motor. See if the rail has enough give and the motor mounts are stout enough to push on the bulging side of the rail. You should have lots of leverage because of the length.

[cabinetman]

Here's a few companies that do service work in the Miramar area...
http://floridagaragedoorcompany.com/
http://broten.com/
My shop garage doors are wood, and when the spring goes, they can't be lifted by hand. These companies may have some of the parts on hand to make the repair, not requiring you to buy another unit. It might pay to get a free estimate.

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[chopnhack]

Worth a call, but I wouldn't be surprised if they don't service craftsman models. The first company sells some higher end units. Most of larger garage door companies in my area use the big name openers as well.

[jdon]

Replying to your original question:

And for either option, call-a-pro or DIY? The sears website has a bunch of reviews by people who installed some openers from scratch themselves, and I'd only need to replace an existing installation.

Several years ago my old opener control board fried, and a replacement board cost more than a new unit (safer and more powerful). I replaced with a different make, IIRC, and had no real problems with installation. I had to drill new mounting holes in the door header to support the beam, and move the motor hangers, but no difficulties- just some fiddling to get bracket holes lined up.

It's definitely a DIY project- all you need is a step ladder, drill, level, and socket set. You can probably find specific installation manuals online before you decide to do it yourself.

[LCHIEN]

as for installation, DIY is not real hard.
If there's already one installed the most difficult items are done - e.g. running wiring and installing headers to attach to above the door and on the door itself.
You do not need to mess with the springs. You typically build it on the floor, then raise and attach the end of the rail/beam to the header above the door. The hardest part remaining is raising and supporting the motor end of the assembly. Having two ladders and or an assistant is good for this.

If you're going to keep the unit and replace the rails, it's easy if you have the replacement rails. Unbolt the motor from the metal angle irons holding it to the ceiling. Lower to the floor. Unclip the end of the rails from the header over the door, and lower to the floor. Now you can replace them and reverse the procedure. Same issues as as the DIY install needing two ladders to support the motor unit being raised to the support. But in this case everything should fit and not need any adjusting.

I've installed at least 3 GDOs.


Good luck.

[radhak]

Great info, gentlemen! I'll take a crack at doing it myself, at least to begin with.

[Gershwin]

Your drive unit should be attached so that there is no way it can move towards the door. Is the rail the only horizontal support member?

Also, carefully inspect the springs. I had a break on one side only a couple of years ago and could not easily see it. The break was on the wall side of the spring. It made the door slightly harder to open, but, given the amount of times that I have had to manually raise the door, I did not know the difference.

You may want to sand a 6 or so inches of the rail, clamp it straight with a pipe, rip a thin strip of 1/4 or 3/8 ply and epoxy or urethane glue it to the underside. After curing, add some rattle can matte black to visually integrate.

Also, check the gears again as long as you are up there. They are probably fine other than a little "snow" and grease migration. Glop the excess into the working sections of gears.

[Skaning]

When I had the new garage built I had a couple of the high end Chamberlains installed. These don't use rails or chains, they attach directly to the shaft over the door and the adjacent wall. The one the springs are around and have the cable pulleys. I went that way because I wanted a clear ceiling I could not be happier. Automatic locking, motion sensors for the lights. They are a bit pricy compared to the cable and belt drives, and generally are available only from dealers but Amazon does have them and they are really not that hard to install.

[chopnhack]

When I had the new garage built I had a couple of the high end Chamberlains installed. These don't use rails or chains, they attach directly to the shaft over the door and the adjacent wall. The one the springs are around and have the cable pulleys. I went that way because I wanted a clear ceiling I could not be happier. Automatic locking, motion sensors for the lights. They are a bit pricy compared to the cable and belt drives, and generally are available only from dealers but Amazon does have them and they are really not that hard to install.

I have wondered about those when my LiftMaster bites the bullet (which probably isnt for a very long time, still runs smooth as day 1 - seven years later)
How much did you spend for one double installed? (assuming at least one of your bays was a double) After watching the pros install, where there any procedures that would not be obvious?