Split A/C Unit Problem

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  • cabinetman
    Gone but not Forgotten RIP
    • Jun 2006
    • 15216
    • So. Florida
    • Delta

    Split A/C Unit Problem

    We had our A/C replaced several years ago, and have had an ongoing problem ever since.

    It's a Janitrol 3.5 ton (I think) unit, air handler inside, compressor outside. There's two copper lines that connect them...a large one and a small one (I don't know what they're called). When those lines leave the air handler they travel up about 5', then curve towards the outside of the house and travel about 10', exit the house, and then return down to the compressor.

    The air handler is in a very small utility room, that's not air conditioned. They have sweated and carry outside condensation to the point of dripping on the floor. They have been wrapped in the foam insulation, but the moisture collects inside and finds its way out.

    Is there a way to stop the condensation? Right now, I have a collector that works pretty good, but it collects about a gallon in a day or two. I tried to divert the drainage to the condensate pump (which pumps the water out along the route of the two copper lines).

    What can be done?

    .
  • jking
    Senior Member
    • May 2003
    • 972
    • Des Moines, IA.
    • BT3100

    #2
    It would seem the problem is humidity in the utility room. Either put a dehumidifier in the room, or, connect the room to the conditioned air.

    One question, however. You mention the lines carry "outside condensation". You just mean they sweat on the outside of the line, right? You're not dealing with situation where the point where the lines penetrate the outside wall isn't sealed properly, are you? If you have outside side coming in the utility room you would need to get that sealed up.

    Comment

    • cabinetman
      Gone but not Forgotten RIP
      • Jun 2006
      • 15216
      • So. Florida
      • Delta

      #3
      Originally posted by jking
      One question, however. You mention the lines carry "outside condensation". You just mean they sweat on the outside of the line, right? You're not dealing with situation where the point where the lines penetrate the outside wall isn't sealed properly, are you? If you have outside side coming in the utility room you would need to get that sealed up.
      It's the larger copper line that is sweating. It collects on the "outside" of the copper. Both large and small lines are sealed where they (enter/exit) the utility room.

      .

      Comment

      • pelligrini
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2007
        • 4217
        • Fort Worth, TX
        • Craftsman 21829

        #4
        While I don't know a lot about it, you should be able to decrease the condensation by properly insulating the lines. Use some better, thicker, insulation and make sure it is sealed tightly. There shouldn't be condensation if the surrounding air can't get in contact with the low pressure tube. Make sure the seam on the insulation sealed tightly and that the insulation fits your pipe size. You don't want any air gaps. Tape the ends of the insulation too.

        I had a tube getting a lot of condensation. When I replaced the old insulation with something that was thicker and fit tightly I haven't had problems since.
        Erik

        Comment

        • eezlock
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2006
          • 997
          • Charlotte,N.C.
          • BT3100

          #5
          split a/c

          Cabinetman, those two copper lines are your refrigerant lines from the compressor/condensing unit to the evaporator unit inside of the house.

          If you are seeing small beads of condensation/moisture on the larger of the two
          lines( suction line) that is perfectly normal. The smaller line is the discharge/
          high pressure line should be no sweat beads/condensation on this line.

          You should have the larger line covered with a black, spongy, foam tubing (armaflex) that is split along it's length installed over the suction tubing and taped every 8 -10 inches from the indoor air handler to the outdoor condensing unit. The smaller tubing should be secured along side of the larger tubing with zip ties at the same intervals as the tape joints are.

          Where the copper lines tie into the indoor evaporator unit, there should be a
          drain pan with a drain line and a P-trap installed and the drain should exit
          the house to the outside or empty into a plumbing drain line inside
          that exits the house. If you are getting water from this drain pan into the house on the floor....your drain pan may be stopped up or in improperly installed and can't drain the water away from the unit...it will need some repairs. The "sweating" of the copper lines in normal, the unit is running at
          or nearly at peak efficiency and that is all it can do!

          Hope this helps............eezlock

          Comment

          • cabinetman
            Gone but not Forgotten RIP
            • Jun 2006
            • 15216
            • So. Florida
            • Delta

            #6
            Thanks for all the suggestions. The copper is fitted with the foam insulation with the split seam. The seam is glued together. Moisture gathers and weeps out of the seam. Maybe wrap with some insulating tape, or is that foil backed fiberglass the way to go?

            .

            Comment

            • Mr__Bill
              Veteran Member
              • May 2007
              • 2096
              • Tacoma, WA
              • BT3000

              #7
              Originally posted by cabinetman
              Thanks for all the suggestions. The copper is fitted with the foam insulation with the split seam. The seam is glued together. Moisture gathers and weeps out of the seam. Maybe wrap with some insulating tape, or is that foil backed fiberglass the way to go?

              .
              They make a stretchy rubber foam adhesive backed insulation for that. It comes in a roll and you wrap it about everything starting where it comes out of the evaporator to the wall. Then put the thicker split foam insulation over that. Or at least that is what I have seen done.

              My other thought is that not all the condensate is being collected and going in to where it is pumped outside but leeching out and running down the pipe. But then again it could just be crying...

              Bill
              in the fog

              Comment

              • LCHIEN
                Internet Fact Checker
                • Dec 2002
                • 21031
                • Katy, TX, USA.
                • BT3000 vintage 1999

                #8
                if the pipe is fully wrapped then there will be no metal surface for the condensation to form on. That means no air gaps. The insulation should present enough temperature difference so that condensation will not form on the insulation.
                Loring in Katy, TX USA
                If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                Comment

                • cabinetman
                  Gone but not Forgotten RIP
                  • Jun 2006
                  • 15216
                  • So. Florida
                  • Delta

                  #9
                  Originally posted by LCHIEN
                  if the pipe is fully wrapped then there will be no metal surface for the condensation to form on. That means no air gaps. The insulation should present enough temperature difference so that condensation will not form on the insulation.
                  I bought a wrap which is 3" wide and 1/2" thick (looks like a fiberglass and cotton batting mix) with a foil backing. I wrapped the tubing tightly, with at least a 1/2" overlap to the edges. Air does not get to the tubing. It doesn't sweat nearly as much, but the surface of the foil does get sweaty, and drips at the low spot. I'm catching and diverting the drops, which are very minimal to the way it was.

                  I'm beginning to think that to stop the sweat completely would be difficult.

                  .

                  Comment

                  • d_meister
                    Established Member
                    • Feb 2009
                    • 185
                    • La Conner, WA.
                    • BT3000

                    #10
                    Loring is right about keeping the air away. The key is to use the right product with a good fit. The Borg has Armacell pipe insulation at the Florida City store and most others. If you search "Armacell" on the local Home Depot site, it will come back with different sizes of rubber and polyethylene pipe insulation and rubber insulation tape. The rubber stuff is what works. The poly stuff is OK for hot water, only. Buy the right size for the pipe and do a really good job of tailoring it on the pipe, then seal any gaps where air can get in with the rubber tape. I run a yacht in Key Largo and had to solve the same problem on the chilled water system throughout the boat, and that's the way that works. The stuff you describe will always let moist air get close to the metal surfaces.

                    Comment

                    • pelligrini
                      Veteran Member
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 4217
                      • Fort Worth, TX
                      • Craftsman 21829

                      #11
                      I noticed over the weekend that the AC contractors used zip ties on the ends of the thick foam insulation around my return line outside. If the foil on your lines is condensing the insulation probably isn't thick enough, not insulating enough. I'm sure you have some very high dew points in your area. It probably doesn't take much of a temperature change for condensation to form.
                      Erik

                      Comment

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