Refrigerator problem

[billwmeyer]

My fridge has a bottom freezer. The freezer keeps getting a large ice buildup and either prevents the door from opening or freezes the bottom basket to the floor. It is not an ice maker leak, it doesn't have one. I can't figure this one out. The seals on the door look good. I don't know why water keeps getting into the bottom freezer.

Thanks.
Bill

[LCHIEN]

does it have an automatic defroster? maybe that's broken.
everytime you open the freezer, a little atmospheric humidity enters, condenses on the sides and freezes to ice. Doesn't take all that long to freeze a sheet of solid ice. In the old days we used to have to defrost the freezer every now and then.

defrosters are pretty much ubiquitous now, before defrosters, ice buildup was common in freezers.

[Tom Slick]

Is the door closing all the way

[charliex]

What Loring said. Had that problem with a fridg many years ago. If I remember correctly the timer (clock) fritzed and wasn't scheduling the necessary defrost time. They work on a schedule instead of as needed. Besides the clock there is also a small heater and the fan involved in the process. You could try doing a complete defrost, turn off and open the door to the freezer compartment for at least 8 hr's. Be ready to empty the evaporator pan often.

[LCHIEN]

from http://apwagner.wordpress.com/2008/0...ezer-problems/

Question 3: Why is there a lot of frost built up inside the freezer?
Answer 3: A frost build-up inside the freezer usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the freezer door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately.
Self-defrost freezers are supposed to self-defrost themselves. Every 6-12 hours they turn off the compressor for a few minutes. A defrost heater then turns on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath. Unfortunately, though, when a component fails, too much frost can build up on the evaporator coils. With no air flow over the coils, cooling in the freezer compartment becomes almost non-existent.

You can manually defrost your freezer by turning it off for 24-48 hours and turn it back on to see if it begins to work properly. If your freezer now works the way it’s supposed to, test the three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat, or the defrost timer.

You can visually inspect some defrost heaters to see if there is a break. If it looks physically broken, then it needs to be replaced. Otherwise, check the defrost heater for continuity.

The defrost thermostat, which is just a bi-metal switch, lets current pass through at factory set temperatures. It also prevents current from passing through at the temperatures set by the factory. The set temperatures for the defrost thermostat vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.

You can test the defrost timer by manually advancing to the defrost cycle. You can usually manually advance this timer with a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the advancement pinion and turn clockwise a 1/4 to 3/8′s of a turn. The timer should advance out of the defrost cycle in less than an hour.

If, after testing these components, it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair
person.

Here's another couple of refs (try googling Freezer defrost problems):

http://www.davesrepair.com/DRSNbackissues/drsn0904.htm

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml

[billwmeyer]

Thanks for the replies.

The door is closing correctly and the seal is good. I do not have frost, I have ice. Clear ice.
I did not think this was an auto defrost fridge, but I will double check on that. Thanks also for the Links, I will check them out.

Thanks all.
Bill

[MikeMorgan]

It seems as though the tube that carries the defrost water to the evaporation pan under the unit has a clog. The defrost unit should melt the frost off the coils and drain it to the evaporation pan. If the drain is clogged the water will refreeze on the bottom.

[LCHIEN]

if its ice pooling in the bottom, then Mike is probably right, the drain to the evaporator pan below is not working because its plugged and defrosted water just pools in the bottom and refreezes to ice when the defrost cycle is over. I think one of those articles i linked mentions this possibility: " If it's *ice* in the drain trough, that's different. ICE tells us that defrost is taking place, but the water can't get where it needs to go, and is refreezing. Drain freeze-ups & clogs are pretty common, and not too tough to clear. If that's what you've got, I'll be telling you about a little trick that'll keep it from ever happening again. But that'll have to wait until the next issue. If it's *ice* in the drain trough, that's different. ICE tells us that defrost is taking place, but the water can't get where it needs to go, and is refreezing. Drain freeze-ups & clogs are pretty common, and not too tough to clear. If that's what you've got, I'll be telling you about a little trick that'll keep it from ever happening again. But that'll have to wait until the next issue."

[billwmeyer]

Thanks guys! I am sure you are right. That just makes too much sense. I will pull out the fridge and check. I think that hose runs down the back of my fridge. I will check the websites when I get home tonight. My company's web filter blocks most web sites. I am sure glad it doesn't block this one!

Bill

[Charlie R]

The cooling radiator in my bottom freezer is on the back wall. Just below it is the defroster element in a glass tube. Cold water drips on the hot glass tube and breaks it. Glass gets into the drip channel below and plugs the tube to the evaporator pan. Be careful cleaning the channel and test it when done by pouring some water through. It should flow through and get into the pan below. I put a metal deflector over the element to stop water hitting the glass.

[billwmeyer]

Thanks, Charlie! That is good to know. I had company last night so I couldn't pull out my fridge to check it. I will do it this weekend.

Bill

[Charlie R]

On my fridge there is a vent panel under the door that pulls out, then you can slide out the drip (evaporation) tray. Only time you need to get behind the fridge is to replace the defrost timer motor. To clean out the drain tube use a wet - dry vacuum at the drain inside the freezer after defrosting. In other words the vacuum won't pull ice out of the drain tube, but you can pour some hot water in the drain to defrost it. After pouring hot water in the drain use a flashlight to look in the pan and see if the water is flowing in.
You should be done before the ice cream melts. Keep your eyes open for a model number plate in case you need to replace the heater. Sometimes they are at ground level behind the vent panel. I've had good luck purchasing appliance and tool parts from internet vendors. Some will ask list price but many discount. Some provide step by step repair procedures that you can print.
Good luck.

[billwmeyer]

Thanks Charlie! I was kept busy all weekend and did not have time to pull out the fridge or even look at it. I will try sometime this week. I need to retire so I could have some time for life and workshop! Whoever came up with 5 days working and 2 days off anyway? Of course this is a lot better than when I was a retail manager and 60 hours was a short week.

Bill