Installing new basement Utility Sink

[RyFitz13]

Yeah, I've got a couple coals on the fire...

So, I'm getting set to install a new utility sink in the basement, in one of two spots. In one of them, I'll have to hire a plumber to crack into the old iron sewer stack and rough in the drain for me - I'm not crazy about learning how to do that particular job, so I'd be OK with hiring someone to do it.

However, the other spot (the one I'm leaning towards) is right in front of a horizontal run of 4" ABS drain line. It should be easy enough to cut into that, install a "T", then install a vented PVC P trap and connect to the sink. However, the center of the ABS pipe is only about 1/2" lower than the bottom of the utility sink.

Considering that I'd be placing the sink literally directly in front of that pipe, I wouldn't need much room to slope the drain downward to the pipe. So, roughly how high would I need to raise up the utility sink? I saw a TOH clip where they installed one on top of 4 cement blocks - looked like they probably raised the sink up between 2 and 4 inches, but they never really covered the details there - so I'm still pretty stumped.

Bottom line is, if I can't make the sink work with that run of PVC, I'm just going to call up the plumber and try to get a drain line installed in the other spot. It's the one SWMBO prefers, though it will steal a little space from my shop...

[woodturner]

Considering that I'd be placing the sink literally directly in front of that pipe, I wouldn't need much room to slope the drain downward to the pipe. So, roughly how high would I need to raise up the utility sink?

One guideline is 1/4" of slope per foot. May get away with less, but that will work. Keep in mind that you will need room for the P-trap, too, and there is a height requirement for the P-trap to sink connection (I don't know the spec for that one).

I'd get the P-trap parts, connect it to the pipe with the 1/4" per foot slope, and see where the top of the P-trap ends up. I'd add 2" or so to make the connection to the sink easier.

[toolguy1000]

woodturner is on the right track and following those suggestions, you can't go very wrong. if the 1/4" per foot results in the p trap being too high, use 1/8" per foot. that will also work. and a good way to not have to worry about having to support a sink at a height greater than its legs is to use a wall hung sink:

http://www.vintagetub.com/asp/produc...?item_no=MF-1W

at 6'4", i was able to mount the sink at a more comfortable personnal height than it would be had i used the legs.

[JimD]

You might also want to look in the plumbing section of the local home center relative to the cast iron. It used to be a pretty complicated process involving molten lead to make connections but current process involves rubber couplings you can readily buy. Cutting the cast iron might still not be super simple but it looks to me (I haven't done it) that the connections should not be very hard.

Jim

[woodturner]

Cutting the cast iron might still not be super simple

You can rent or borrow a chain cutter. It's a chain with cutting wheels every other link or so. Wrap the chain around the pipe, start ratcheting down the chain, and wait for the "snap". It's really not that difficult, and the Fernco type fittings you mentioned make the new connections easily.

[toolguy1000]

i have worked with CI waste lines and if you are not terribly familiar with plumbing in general, try to stay away from it. sometimes, the CI will not break cleanly. it doesn't happen often, but when it does, it's a real problem.

if as the opening post states, there is a location where the waste line can be cut into ABS, that is probably a better location as ABS is far more forgiving and easier to work with than CI, even with banded couplings.

[twistsol]

If the sink ends up too high, you can get a grey water pump for a couple hundred bucks and pump the sink drain water from any location to the PVC pipe. Of course that means that the drain won't work when there's no power.