Laundry room remodel (plumbing questions)

[ivwshane]

I'm in the planning stages of my laundry room remodel and I have a question regarding the plumbing.

How can I connect "C" to "B"? I'm also assuming that the pipe diameter for "B" is also larger than "C". The concrete wall you see in the pics are where the plumbing will be coming through.

[Uncle Cracker]

Looks to me like there's enough room to put a 90 at the bottom of "C", and then perpendicular to a sanitary tee on its side at "B". You could also turn the 90 on "C" at a 45 degree angle to "B" and use a wye on its side at "B", if you don't have the room for a sanitary tee on "B". And if "C" is smaller than "B", don't worry, because you can get both sanitary tees and wyes that have a smaller side branch, so you wouldn't need to bush down a bigger one.

Be sure to use a p-trap on the washer drain (behind the washer), or you will have sewer odors seeping into your laundry area.

Remember also to maintain a downslope in "B" (high end is where you are working) so that drainage to the street is maintained, rather than pooling in the new extension you are adding.

[ivwshane]

The only problem I see with that (if I'm understanding you correctly) is that if I have a 90 come out of "C", it's elevation is higher than "B" (and I can't bring it lower because there is a concrete wall below it).

Can I have a 90 come out of "C" to have it come out past the concrete and then use another 90 to bring it down and connect it with a tee to "B" (that would require 3 90's in a small amount of space)?

[Uncle Cracker]

A bunch of 90's in close proximity is a blockage looking for a place to happen. Perhaps you could mount a 45 further up inside the wall, and a second one at "B" level? You could cut the bottom plate in the wall, or even have the 45'd pipe protrude through the wall near floor level, if it's going to be behind the washer. You could also chip away a bit of the concrete wall at that top edge to gain a couple of more inches if you need it. You do not want to get into any tight radii or mess with any of that accordion-flex crap if you can possibly avoid it, and this might be an acceptable compromise.

You could also do it with two 90's by ell-ing to horizontal in the floor joists with a close ell, and then again over the centerline of "B" with a sweep if there is room, but I'd only do this as a last resort.

[ivwshane]

Hmm...I think a 45 (or 2) would work.

All the pics I've seen with a p trap for a washer show that it's also connected to a vent pipe as well. Since I have a vent pipe already (but further down the line) do I need a seperate one for the washer as well?


Thanks for the help.

[Uncle Cracker]

All the pics I've seen with a p trap for a washer show that it's also connected to a vent pipe as well. Since I have a vent pipe already (but further down the line) do I need a seperate one for the washer as well?

Yup. Any time you add a gravity drain, you need a stack to let a sufficient quantity of air in behind your drainage. Your vents "down the line" won't help, as they are ahead of the drainage through the new inlet. Since the inlet at your washer is not sealed, you can't afford for the drainage to be slow or it'll back up (and out).

[capncarl]

If you don't put a vent at the washer connection it will likely "burp" large volumes of soapy water out of the open hose connection behind the washer. Not good. I have made my own offsets in 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 pvc piping by using a heat gun like a hair dryer when I only needed a slight bend or offset. By working it carefully it will bend and not kink.

capncarl

[master53yoda]

The vent needs to vent from the highest point in the main or branch line. normally this is the last run, in this case it needs to come off of the clothes washer and it needs to be as large as the line it is venting, 1 1/2 or 2 or 3 in the case of a toilet. The trapped air in the line between the water coming from the washer and the vent builds pressure and will burp out the closest drain. sometimes the washer but I've seen it more often in the shower or floor drain if there is one. Remember that the vent also is directly connected to the sewer system and it will vent sewer gases into what ever area that the vent is connected to. That is why the vent is taken outside the structure.

[ivwshane]

So it should look like this then?

[Uncle Cracker]

I think I'd try to bring the vent straight down, and put the p-trap on the branch of the tee...

[pelligrini]

Your local code might permit the use of a studor vent so you might not have to take the vent stack up.

[ivwshane]

I think I'd try to bring the vent straight down, and put the p-trap on the branch of the tee...

I'm having trouble visualizing what you are talking about. Is this what you mean?

[toolguy1000]

my washer connection, in a basement remodel, looks like posting #9. a friend, who is a licensed master plumber, had me set it up that way. it was inspected and passed by the toughest inspector in westchester county, NY. mine was done in CI, but if plastic is approved in your municipality, i don't think you can go wrong with the posting 9 configuration. on DWV, our plumbing inspector is not a big fan of straight "tees". Tee/wyes, like you've shown in posting 9, are usually preferred in DWV systems. have you checked with your local plumbing/building inspector?

[Uncle Cracker]

I'm having trouble visualizing what you are talking about. Is this what you mean?

Yes, it is. Make sure the tee leading to the p-trap is a sanitary type, like the others you show.

[ivwshane]

Yes, it is. Make sure the tee leading to the p-trap is a sanitary type, like the others you show.

Like this one:


Is there a particular reason you like the straight down method better than the other one (besides the fact that it would be easier to make)?