Baseboards, now what?

[Greg in Maryland]

Hi

I am in the process of installing new baseboards in my sun room and have run across a bit of a problem. It appears that the floor is not level. Surprise, surprise, surprise. When I was removing the old junk, the baseboards in one corner were buried in about 1/3rd to 2/3rds of an inch below the tile floor. It took a bit of creative destruction to get them out. The floor slopes from corner A/B to corner G/H in the below diagram.

Unfortunately, the tile floors are not being removed and the new baseboards are not similar dimensions as the originals, so I cannot simply bury the baseboards into the floor like the originals were. I also don't think that quarter rounds will be large enough to cover any gaps in corner G/H if I ignore the slope and go off a level line from corner A/B.

My plan is to start the baseboards from E/F to G/H, then work my way along both walls to A/B and C/D. So, my problem is to figure out a way to best compensate for the sloping floor, but still maintain the illusion of level baseboards.

The possible solution have come up with is to install the baseboards along E/F to G/H so that they are level with the floor at that end and then work off of this level line for the rest of the room, scribing the baseboards and removing material as I go along so that everything is level. I'll use quarter rounds to cover up any irregularities with my scribing.

The baseboards for the entire room are only $23, so the materials costs are not a real issue. I just don't want to spend hours doing this, just to be dissatisfied with the result and have to tear everything out and start over.

Am I missing anything here? Should I just say WTF and install the baseboards along the floor and ignore the slope? I never noticed the slope before and I doubt that I would have if I had not removed the old baseboards.

Thanks.

Greg

[crokett]

I think you would notice a scribed baseboard a lot more than you would notice one that wasn't level. Look at it this way: If you just install them and wish you'd scribed it, the redo is a lot less work than if you scribed them then decided you didn't like it.

[LCHIEN]

I think you will most likely be happy with baseboards that are not level, but the same uniform height all around and the un-level will not be noticable.
If you make the tops of the baseboard level by making them different heights then the height mismatch will be evident. Also a lot more work.

[cabinetman]

You didn't say what the differential dimension was. There are a few steps to take to determine what would be the best method. For rooms like you describe, the slope (out of level floor) could just be a straight line deviation. You might find that within any wall length, there may be high areas that would throw off just using base moulding that has a straight bottom. Those conditions have to be dealt with individually. Scribing those areas so the rest of the base fits the floor may have to be done.

Normally, finding the highest point to the floor and creating a level line from there gives the best look. Usually, if the moulding follows the floor line (slopes included), and the tops of the base line up it isn't visually objectionable. Using base shoe moulding where the base meets the floor is used to cover deviations. Base shoe is sold off the rack in a variety of sizes. I've seen it from 3/8"x1", to the average sizes of 7/16"x3/4" to 1/2"x5/8". Variations to fit the condition could be shop made very easily.

Since most base mouldings have some sort of finished detail or profile near or at the top, it's not common to scribe the top edge. Base shoe moulding usually does the trick.
.

[pelligrini]

Am I missing anything here? Should I just say WTF and install the baseboards along the floor and ignore the slope? I never noticed the slope before and I doubt that I would have if I had not removed the old baseboards.

It would probably look better having the same height with the baseboards. Installed with the slope of the floor. The only place that the slope might be noticable is if the window sills are close to them. Sounds like you are using a fairly small baseboard profile and not a large built up assembly judging from the costs. Smaller ones can deal with bends and slight dips better.

[toolguy1000]

what is the change in elevation from the highest corner to the lowest corner? if it's not too great, start at the high corner keeping the top of the baseboard level around the room. then, use either shoe molding or some other type of baseboard to floor "filler" trim to hide the discrepancy. do it all the time. never noticed by anyone.

[Greg in Maryland]

Hi

Thanks for the comments. The elevation drop between corner A/B and E/F and C/D is negligable -- 1/8 th of an inch. It is the drop to G/H that is significant -- 13/16ths of an inch. The room is 139 inches x 91 inches. Below is a revised diagram.

I measured by marking a line at a random height, using the laser level to mark a line at a similar height all around the room. From this line, I measured to the tile floor at each corner.

I am using a 4 1/2 inch ogee baseboard with a quarter round at the base where it meets the floor.

Do the dimensions and the drop change any of the suggestions?

Greg

[cgallery]

I agree with everyone else. The baseboards should hug the floor. Trying to make them level will just call attention to the uneven floor.

[Dutchman46]

I had a problem of about the same a few years ago. I ran a line that was level,and then i could see that it was about 1/2 of a inch only on one corner. I added a piece on the floor in the low spot and tapered the height so it was even. I then laid the 1/4 round, and laid it on the top of the added piece. It was not totally level, but it also was not noticable, so i solved the problem. sort of !

[pelligrini]

I am using a 4 1/2 inch ogee baseboard with a quarter round at the base where it meets the floor.

Do the dimensions and the drop change any of the suggestions?

Greg

Oh man, that changes everything. Probably ought to take up the tile and float the floor to within 1/256 in 10'.

I still think having the same height/reveal on the base will make things less noticeable. Most folks won't perceive a difference if there are no indicators near the imperfection. A tapered piece of trim is a good indicator. If the window sills are within a foot or so of the trim it might be noticeable, but the eye would be led away from that condition due to the repetition of the windows.

The millwork guys on a recent condo job were installing a built up crown moulding and the ceiling wasn't exactly flat. They used a laser to establish the bottom line of the trim. A 1x10 piece was put right on that line and then the rest of the crown was built up on top of that. In the places where the ceiling dropped slightly it would really pop out at you because you could easily see the changes in the reveal of the long piece on the wall.

We had them redo it keeping the same distance from the ceiling to the bottom of the trim. You really couldn't tell that the ceiling wasn't exactly level once they did it the other way.

[430752]

both. While not as severe as you've got, when I had uneven floors I'd shave a bit off the baseboard and allow some unlevelness. I've tried exclusively level to the point of differing domensions of baseboard, and that looked weird (but it was finished so stayed) and in another room I tried same thickness but unlevel, and that also looked weird, so now I do both.

That is, optically I agree that your eye is more likely to notice a change in baseboard dimension than level, but you do see level also. What your eyes wont' see, however, is some change in baseboard dimension. Maybe a 1/4 or 1/2 inch if using reasonable tall baseboard and if a long stretch of wall. Less for the cheap, skinny baseboard or short spaces. Then you lay it unlevel to follow the floor and try to remove any gaps. A little help in each department makes a good compromise.

Just my .02.

[dlminehart]

Another trim question

I have sheet vinyl (3rd generation) on my kitchen floor, hardwood in the adjoining living room. Same baseboard in both, meeting at the arched, open doorway between the two rooms. The adjoining floors have a 1-1/2" oak strip (forget what you call it) covering the uneven joint. The kitchen floor sits about 3/8" higher than the living room.

So, the baseboard goes from living room, around the corner to the face of open doorway, intersects the wooden floor joint cover, overlays an inch or so of kitchen floor protruding into the doorway, and then wraps the corner into the kitchen.

Questions:

1) Would you (a) run the baseboard along the inside of the doorway, and stop the floor joint cover at the edge of the baseboard, or (b) run the joint cover to the inside edge of the door opening, scribing under the baseboard to go across it?

2) Would you (c) simply angle the baseboard upward in the doorway from living room to kitchen, a noticeable 3/8" in 4-1/2", with wedge-shaped gap needing to be filled? Or (d) elevate the baseboard in living room (and adjoining hall and entry) by 3/8", covering with quarter round?

[toolguy1000]

i'd still make the top of the baseboard level, so in those instances where it goes under a window, it appears level relative to the window. then use something as a shoe molding (1" quarter round or cove molding) to camouflage the gap betwen the bottom of the baseboard and the floor.

[pelligrini]

If it were me, 2C. I'd keep the same height on the baseboard in both room and angle the base at the transition strip. The slope of the floor at the transition strip is already obvious, I don't see a need to conceal it. Doing the same base in both rooms would be easier than ripping, or building it up.

(I don't mind easy)