Siding Questions

**ragswl4** · 05-01-2009, 10:43 AM

Originally posted by wareagle

Hey guys,

LOML and I are about to start getting estimates on new siding for the house. We were talking about vinyl, but I was talking to my brother last weekend (who installs siding 800 miles away from me, unfortunately) and he said he can hardly recommend vinyl anymore. He said we should look into Hardie siding.

So, my questions are:

Do any of you have Hardie siding?
Is there a big cost difference between Hardie and vinyl?
Are there any other options out there I should look into?

Appreciate any help/tips you can provide.

Best,

David

We are currently installing Hardie and CertainTeed (nearly the same as Hardie) on our new home. I don't know what vinyl costs but here is what we are paying for our siding:

Hardie planks, primed, 12ft long by 8 1/4"-$5.63+tax per plank at Lowes. This product has to be painted. We do it before installation.

CertainTeed Pre-stained Mahogany siding, 12ft long by 8 1/4"- $13.70 per plank at 84 Lumber, a local lumber yard.

We have a unique install which is why we are using two different types of siding. Its a raised foundation two story home so we are installing the less expensive Hardi planks in most areas that are not visible unless you go below the 1st floor on the sides and back of the home. The Certainteed siding is more expensive due to the pre-stained, baked on finish. 20 year guarantee as I remember. It is also much more brittle than the Hardi but looks fantastic.

It is installed with 2 1/2" galvanized nails using a nail gun into studs. Cuts pretty easy but a lot of cement dust from the Hardi product. If you use this product get the right blade for the circular saw and expect the dust to kill the bearings in the saw over time, wear a mask and saftey glasses if you do the install. We paint all the edges after cutting. Where the siding meets the trim it must be caulked as well as around all windows, doors, etc. Lowes has an air caulking gun for about $20 and it works like a charm. Caulk the siding around a window is about 2 minutes. Caulk flow stops immediately when you release the trigger. I use 30 psi of air pressure and this seems to provide a good amount of caulk at a slow enough rate to eliminate any mess. We use clear caulk.

I also made a couple of jigs (saw it somewhere on the web) to position each piece of siding at the right height. Works great. Could send a pic with dimensions if you want. Email me if you want it. It is an easy DIY project if you are handy with a circ saw and jig saw and don't mind getting up on a ladder. Takes at least two people to position the siding. Hope this helps.

**Mr__Bill** · 05-01-2009, 01:16 PM

Originally posted by wareagle

Hey guys,

LOML and I are about to start getting estimates on new siding for the house.

David

I am assuming that you are not doing it yourself.

Go to the Hardie and CertainTeed web sites and look for their installation instructions and recommended installation procedures. With this info visit a site where a potential installer is working and see just how they are doing it. Many do not fallow the recommendations and take shortcuts. Both are very specific about the nails, nailing and backing material. If everything is followed the siding should last longer than the house. Both sidings take paint very well but like wood they have a high coefficient of expansion and should be installed with a gap between each plank that is then caulked with a polyurethane caulking. Unlike ceder clapboard siding where you nail the bottom, with this siding you only nail the top, the nails are not set and care is taken to not break the planks. This siding should be cut with a shear, electric ones look like a cross between a drill and tin snips.

So check out the installation while it's being done and not just the finished job, and watch the job as it's being done on your house. If you have an installer who knows better than the manufacturer and insists that his way is better or the only way then send him on his way. Make sure too that flashing is used and not just caulking at places like over doors and windows and at the bottom.

Make sure that the siding contractor or you do an inspection of what is there now and do the repairs.

Make sure the siding is dry when you paint. This stuff can soak up a lot of water and take days to dry.

When done you will have a house that looks much better than vinyl. The planks are available in many widths and the end result can look very much like ceder clapboard or that wide redwood siding that was popular back in the 50's and 60's. 4x8 sheets are available as are perforated soffett.

Bill, on the Sunny Oregon Coast

**Russianwolf** · 05-01-2009, 02:09 PM

why not go all in......http://www.reforestteak.com/Teak-Sid...ing_p_106.html

**Hellrazor** · 05-01-2009, 02:35 PM

My 2.5 cents..

Vinyl is just that. It will need to be replaced sometime in the future when it looks ugly and gets brittle. It is easy to replace a damaged piece as long as you have stare.

VS

Cement board can be prepainted but you will need to paint it every so often, scrape it if it peels, etc. It is a modern day clapboard right along with the maintenance.

**capncarl** · 05-01-2009, 02:57 PM

I installed Hardie over osb on my shop, and feel that it is far superior to vinyl. None of the finishing accessories that Hardie offers seem to be available at the outlets that sell the planks in this area. The inside and outside corner trim would make for an nicer installation. The hanger tool that is sold on line would be a nice installion aid, but you can build your own. One drawback that I have seen from my own installation and inspecting other jobs is the use of the plastic button headed nails that are used to attach the house wrap. If not removed before the plank is installed they cause a unsightly ripple in each plank. I used a 10 inch fiber type concrete blade in a cheap HF metal chop saw to cut my planks. 2 people are required for installation as the planks are heavy and are prone to break in half when picked up in the middle. I believe that Hardie recommends a long roofing nail for attachment. I have seen Hardie planks that were installed with regular head nails and with finishing nails pulled off walls with high winds.

**conwaygolfer** · 05-01-2009, 03:28 PM

Hardi Plank Siding

Not sure where you live, but here in SC. the sun was killing the cedar siding on the South side of my home. I got tired of applying a solid color stain and decided to tear it all off. I went with Hardi Plank with a wood grain look. You can get it pre primered. Then you paint after it is installed.

I bought (from Lowes) a 6 tooth blade made for the cement board. Less dust and cuts like a dream. I did most of it by myself using a bent piece of hanger strap at one end. I would slide the 12' piece into the strap. Hole MY end up to my mark and nail. Then go to the other end and pull out the strap and start nailing from there. The only time I needed help was on top scaffolding.
I covered my 2 story house and also used it on my 2 story garage. I installed this about 5 years ago and it still looks like new.

I used a hot galv. spiral thread hardboard siding nail. It is 8d x 2 1/2.
Holds great and not too bad to nail. You do it right and you see no nails til you get to the top course. And the paint covers that. You can get these nails from most any lumber yard.

The cost when I did my house was about $3.00 per board. When I did my garage, the cost was about $5.00 per board. Last fall I built a 24 x 16 shed out back and the cost was almost $6.00 per board. I was told that China is getting most of the materials, so if we also want it, the cost is gonna be up there.

On the corners of all bldgs., I simply nailed a 1x3 or 4 and brought the siding up to it. Caulk it good.
All I can say is, you will be very happy with the finished result.

Glenn

**Tom Slick** · 05-01-2009, 06:58 PM

I have no connection to hardie but do have connections to the construction industry.

Hardie will not shrink/expand like vinyl so you won't get seasonal gaps or waviness / buckling.
Hardie is fireproof. That doesn't make your house fireproof but at least your siding won't catch fire and emit toxic fumes (hydrochloric acid is just one) like vinyl. That's a real issue out here in the west where we have wild fires regularly.
Both will need to be painted at some point in time, Hardie does not require special paints, Vinyl does. The special paints are not difficult to find or more expensive but you have to make sure to use the right type. These paints have a higher reflectivity rating so the vinyl doen't heat up more than it is designed to.
Hardie does not off-gas chemicals during normal aging like vinyl if you are concerned about that kind of stuff. If you don't believe in that kind of stuff then it isn't really an issue.
Hardie is heavy and less likely to blow off in high winds but that might not be an issue in your area.

In my personal opinion hardie looks nicer.

**Gator95** · 05-01-2009, 10:32 PM

Where are you located?
Here in the southeast, pretty much every medium to high-end house is hardiplank. Vinyl is only on low end or houses which were retrofit from hardboard before hardiplank got popular.

Not sure how hardi behaves in cold (like below zero) weather or with snow/ice. Other than that, it is a higher quality option vs. vinyl. Looks better, easier to work with and replace, etc..

**williwatt** · 05-02-2009, 03:52 PM

When you use hardie for siding, what do you use for the soffit and fascia? Do they make these in hardie?

**Tom Slick** · 05-02-2009, 06:10 PM

Hardie does make trim and soffit products.

Azek makes vinyl trim that is actually very nice.

**pelligrini** · 05-02-2009, 06:26 PM

The same company makes many different exterior products out of that cementious fiberboard. Including trim boards and soffit panels.
http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner...exterior.shtml

**sparkeyjames** · 05-02-2009, 09:09 PM

These products of which you speak are they just another name for fibercement siding?

**pelligrini** · 05-02-2009, 09:24 PM

Yep, brand name & manufacturer, James Hardi

**Tom Slick** · 05-02-2009, 09:41 PM

Originally posted by sparkeyjames

These products of which you speak are they just another name for fibercement siding?

yes, Hardie is one manufacturer, I believe Certainteed is another.

Siding Questions

Siding Questions

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Footer Ad