Replacing Main Panel - Matching Amp Ratings

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  • crokett
    The Full Monte
    • Jan 2003
    • 10627
    • Mebane, NC, USA.
    • Ryobi BT3000

    #16
    I called my power co yesterday (or more properly they called me back after a few days of me waiting). The engineer was very helpful and said as far as he knows I have 200A service. He also called one of his service techs who came out to look things over late yesterday. He gave me some things to think about, including that the new panel is taller than the old and if it were installed in the exact same position I would not be able to reach the main breaker w/o a ladder. Lowering it is a problem because all the feeds to the basement and large appliances go through the wall and I can't move them So I need to figure out where to move it to.
    David

    The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

    Comment

    • BigguyZ
      Veteran Member
      • Jul 2006
      • 1818
      • Minneapolis, MN
      • Craftsman, older type w/ cast iron top

      #17
      If you're going to do this legit, and get a permit, I'd be shocked if they didn't require a certified electrician to do the work. I know, since we just completely ronnovated a house and there were a few things that the permit office would not let us (the home owner) do.

      So, I'd check to see what's allowed, because it may be out of your hands.

      Comment

      • woodturner
        Veteran Member
        • Jun 2008
        • 2049
        • Western Pennsylvania
        • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

        #18
        Originally posted by crokett
        Lowering it is a problem because all the feeds to the basement and large appliances go through the wall and I can't move them So I need to figure out where to move it to.
        I have done this on several houses, and there is a way to do this safely without incurring cost to the electric company. Usually they will come out once for free, charge for the second visit - so it costs money to have them pull the meter, then return to reconnect it. Usually the fines for pulling the meter yourself exceed the cost of the second visit.

        I would do this in the following steps:
        1. find a new location for the breaker panel.
        2. Install a new breaker panel in the new location.
        3. Install the new meter socket.
        4. Wire the new panel to the new service head (2/0 SEC for 200A service, minimum).
        5. Install ground rods and wire the rods to the panel or meter socket, as dictated by your local electric company.
        6. Wire house to new circuit breakers in the new breaker panel.

        Up to this point you are working only on unpowered circuits.

        7. Add one more 60 A or so breaker in the new panel and feed it from a similar breaker in the old panel. Leave the main panel breaker turned off.

        Now the new panel is fed from the old panel, so you have power to run the house at a minimal level.

        8. Call for your inspection.

        9. After passing inspection, call the electric company. They will come out and connect the new wire at the weatherhead to the grid, install the meter, disconnect the old panel from the grid, etc. Now you are all hooked up.

        VERY IMPORTANT - DO THE FOLLOWING IN THIS SEQUENCE

        10. Turn off the main breaker in the old panel.
        11. Remove the breaker and jumper from the old panel.
        12. Remove the breaker and jumper from the new panel (main breaker is still turned off).
        13. Either reinstall the breaker unconnected, plug the hole in the panel cover plate, or wire the breaker to a circuit. What I usually do is use the range breaker for the jumper, and then wire up the range at the end.
        14. Install cover plate on panel.
        15. Turn off all circuit breakers
        16. Stand to the side, as far away as possible, and turn on the main breaker.
        17. If all is well, turn on a 15A breaker and verify power.
        18. Turn on the breakers one by one and verify power, watching for noise, smoke or heat.
        19. When all the breakers are on, shut the panel door and pat yourself on the back.
        --------------------------------------------------
        Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

        Comment

        • crokett
          The Full Monte
          • Jan 2003
          • 10627
          • Mebane, NC, USA.
          • Ryobi BT3000

          #19
          woodturner, thanks for the write up but I do not wish to touch the service entrance, whether or not I do the work myself. I am upgrading the panel only, or figuring out another way to add a main cutoff. Unless the rules have changed in the last 6 months, I can do my own work and get it inspected. My dad added separate metered service to his barn last year for tax purposes and did all his own work. When they did the addition the their house some years ago he did all his own work then too.
          Last edited by crokett; 04-09-2009, 02:15 PM.
          David

          The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

          Comment

          • pelligrini
            Veteran Member
            • Apr 2007
            • 4217
            • Fort Worth, TX
            • Craftsman 21829

            #20
            Can any of the 2 40A, 2 30A or 1 20A be moved?

            If one could move, what about adding a subpanel next to your main panel? It could be fed by the open breaker slot that would be available in the main panel. You've still got only six motions to kill all the power, and a wide open sub panel now.

            I don't know if you could put another sub panel off the new sub panel for your shop though.
            Erik

            Comment

            • crokett
              The Full Monte
              • Jan 2003
              • 10627
              • Mebane, NC, USA.
              • Ryobi BT3000

              #21
              Originally posted by pelligrini
              Can any of the 2 40A, 2 30A or 1 20A be moved?

              If one could move, what about adding a subpanel next to your main panel? It could be fed by the open breaker slot that would be available in the main panel. You've still got only six motions to kill all the power, and a wide open sub panel now.

              I don't know if you could put another sub panel off the new sub panel for your shop though.
              Well I could feed the shop off the main panel and then bring a a line back to feed whatever it was that I replaced. That would be kinda messy though.
              David

              The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

              Comment

              • LinuxRandal
                Veteran Member
                • Feb 2005
                • 4890
                • Independence, MO, USA.
                • bt3100

                #22
                Are you allowed to build a step where it enters?
                She couldn't tell the difference between the escape pod, and the bathroom. We had to go back for her.........................Twice.

                Comment

                • woodturner
                  Veteran Member
                  • Jun 2008
                  • 2049
                  • Western Pennsylvania
                  • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

                  #23
                  Originally posted by crokett
                  woodturner, thanks for the write up but I do not wish to touch the service entrance, whether or not I do the work myself.
                  Part of my point was that it may be less expensive to replace the service entrance as well, since it avoids two visits by the electric company. In addition, depending on age and condition, the electric company may require you to replace the service entrance.
                  --------------------------------------------------
                  Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

                  Comment

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