Insulation, efficiency - idea, opinions?

[os1kne]

I've been thinking of making my home more energy efficient, mainly by improving the insulation. (Of course, it's much too cold to actually do the work now-to benefit this winter, so I'll probably do the work after it warms up for future benefit.) I know those thermal-imaging cameras are the best way to go, but I'm trying to DIY.

I saw an advertisement for a Black & Decker Thermal Leak Detector http://www.blackanddecker.com/produc...roductid=20626

Apparently they go for around $50, which seems reasonable enough - I have had a lot of luck with B&D tools in the past (all bad).

My question is - can I accomplish the same purpose with a non-contact infrared thermometer like this? - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96451
The price difference doesn't matter to me, if I'd be better off with a more expensive thermometer then I'd get it (or if the B&D tool is better, I'd get that.)

My thought is that I could scan it along the walls, ceiling, etc. and see where the temperature drops + make a pencil mark or something to indicate areas that need work. The thermometer won't have the colored flashlight feature that illuminates like the B&D tool, but I've never used a non-contact thermometer before so I don't know if it will do what I expect.

Thanks in advance.

[DaveS]

I believe an "energy audit" will run you about $200, and they bring all the fancy schmancy stuff with them. Sometimes the local utility companies do them, they are often a bit cheaper.

Might be worth it.

Also, depending on where you live, you can rent IR cameras. They are often used in electronics design to look at circuit boards to see which components are getting hot.

[Tom Slick]

you may have a service in your area that will take an energy audit of your home. Sometimes home inspectors will also provide this service. They will use a thermal imaging camera that will give you a much better idea of leaks than randomly selecting areas with a thermometer.


EDIT: Dave and I were on the same brain wave!

[LCHIEN]

I have similar IR thermometers, I don't think they'll do well for what you are thinking. What I read is you plan to scan the walls. Well these devices don't actually read continuously so you can scan for hotspots, then are operated by trigger and take discrete readings. It will take time and patience to scan a wall in this fashion. Also they won't spot small leaks well they cover an area; the one you linked at HF is typical and has an 8:1 spot, the sensing diameter is 1 ft. in diameter at 8 feet distance, something you need to keep in mind when surveying the house.

Probably an IR camera is the best option, as others have pointed out, it should have good enough resolution to pcik up any small hotspots.

The IR non-contact thermometers are good for taking spot readings of specific objects, e.g. items in a freezer, items in a vat, heat sinks on electronics, surfaces on buildings or vessels a bit too far or hazardous to reach, etc.

[Mr__Bill]

At one time they made IR film for your camera. If it's still available that may be an inexpensive way to find the energy leaks. (Assuming you still have a 35mm film camera.) Or you can use the 'tried and true' way of plugging all the air leaks and put lots of insulation in the attic. Then walk around inside and look for cold spots. Or next summer, hot spots.


Bill,

[Kristofor]

I have similar IR thermometers, I don't think they'll do well for what you are thinking. What I read is you plan to scan the walls. Well these devices don't actually read continuously so you can scan for hotspots, then are operated by trigger and take discrete readings. It will take time and patience to scan a wall in this fashion. Also they won't spot small leaks well they cover an area; the one you linked at HF is typical and has an 8:1 spot, the sensing diameter is 1 ft. in diameter at 8 feet distance, something you need to keep in mind when surveying the house.

I agree an IR camera is the right tool, not an IR thermometer as it lets you see where the sharp transitions are from warm to cold over a large field in one quick pass.

That said, I have a fairly inexpensive Fluke IR thermometer (not HF inexpensive, but less than $65). I've used it (casually, playing around) for this exact purpose. It will update the temperature reading very quickly, at least every half second or so, so it does work fairly well for finding large differences.

You're probably a bit warmer than we are, but this time of year is great for finding leaks as you can have a greater than 100 degree gradient between indoor and outdoor temperatures on particularly cool days. This leads to fairly significant differences around a leaky opening, or a less well insulated location. The upside is that you can actually find cold spots without needing the same level of resolution you would with a lower temperature difference.

[DaveS]

At one time they made IR film for your camera.

What is this "film" thing of which you speak?

My camera only takes SD cards.

[gbtower]

I wonder if you can use the nightshot mode on some cameras as a substitute IR camera. It may not have the resolution to be workable, but it couldn't hurt to try. Just have to cover the IR led. Hmm... unless the wavelength is totally different.

[Ed62]

I wonder if you can use the nightshot mode on some cameras as a substitute IR camera.

I think the short answer to that is "No".

Ed

[master53yoda]

energy audit

Bear in mind that there must be at least a 30 degree difference between inside and outside temperatures in order to get any usable infrared information in measuring a wall.

Also the largest energy loss in residential construction is air leakage from the outside. for example most houses built before the 90s or that do not have something like Tivek on the outside under the siding will leak well over 1/2 air change per hour. The best initial option is to run a heat loss using the insulation that is used in you house and compare it to what the current code would require. That will let you know where to start. Tightening the house up will make a larger difference then anything else if the existing insulation is sufficient.


art