Round Drywall Corners

[Pappy]

When I put the drywall in the master bath I used a round corner piece rather than the old square edge. I like the softened look but it created a problem I didn't think of. I am finally getting around to trimming it out and don't know what to do with the baseboard at that corner.

Suggestions/solutions?

[JeffW]

I have seen several ways to handle round corners.

1. make a series of small pieces all miter cut.

2. Make small kerf cuts along the back that will allows the piece to bend

3. Use special bendable molding.

[Stytooner]

Jeff's got the solution I think.
Make a third piece that is angled at 22.5 degrees. It will take a little caulking, but if painted, should look good.
I have seen these where rubber base is applied. It just bends right around the corners.
Another idea is to make these little blocks that would fit the curve. Maybe with a router table. Then just butt the molding up to it.
Put blocks on the inside corners too and it would all look pretty nice.

[Uncle Cracker]

If you're handy with a lathe, you can turn a full-round piece with the same profile as your baseboard moulding, and then just cut out the radius you need to go around the corner. It will really look slick when painted to match.

[Mr__Bill]

When I did the base in my house I did the 22.5 and the corner had a flat front with some caulking, only OK and only for painted base. If I were to do it again for myself I think I would get anal about it and either do multiple curfs or at least more pieces cut for the round corner. Have to admit that it sure is easier to paint the corner when it's rounded.

Bill, on the Sunny Oregon Coast, where I am beginning to think the sun don't shine!

[Tom Slick]

With bull nose I cut a short piece to go across the corner at 45* which is 22.5* at each miter.

[Roger Ronas]

All good ideas.
When I was running trim, those corners got the 3 piece trim. The center piece is 5/8" long on the short(back) side. glue at the joints and it's golden.


Roger

[Pappy]

I will have to check for the flex molding in the pattern I am using. If not, I had thought about the lathe but I may try multiple kerf cuts first.

[Duff]

I saw a show a few days ago where they used 1/4" hardboard or something to do the curves. . . .SEVERELY braced, but 1/4" hardboard. . . . .

[AZDude]

I would try to go to a local door & trim shop. Depending on the profile, they might have a round corner piece to fit the exact size of corner bead you have. If they have them in stock, it should only be about $5 or less.

Brent

[jussi]

If you're handy with a lathe, you can turn a full-round piece with the same profile as your baseboard moulding, and then just cut out the radius you need to go around the corner. It will really look slick when painted to match.

If you don't have a lathe I'm wondering if you can't just make a series of rough cuts with a miter saw/ jig saw and then sand smooth with an oss.

[Pappy]

I would try to go to a local door & trim shop. Depending on the profile, they might have a round corner piece to fit the exact size of corner bead you have. If they have them in stock, it should only be about $5 or less.

Brent

Didn't think about checking the specialty shops. I'll have to try that first.

[ksum]

The first time I saw those rounded corners, I fell in love with them. The baseboard installations I have seen with curved walls have been to use a simple baseboard which has a rectangular cross section, where the corner that becomes the top outside is slightly rounded off. In inside corners, nothing special was done. Only the outside corners were rounded. The inside ones were square.

You are can make the corner pieces from square stock. Cut a 45 on the inside corner, then, on the router table, route out an arc to match the wall arc. Then cut a 45 on the opposite corner and route it off with a round over bit equal in diameter to the inner arc plus the baseboard thickness. You may be able to find a mill shop to bang these out for you if you are unable to get router bits with arcs large enough. Might just be something you need a shaper for.

You can use a biscuit jointer to put the corner pieces in. Taunton's "The best of fine homebuilding Finish Carpentry" shows the installation and also a jig for the biscuit cutter. It also shows another idea, although their application is for molding over an arched opening. Make a profile of the molding from a piece of metal and use it to shape wet plaster. I would use that as a last resort, though.

Karl

[ivwshane]

This is how the model homes by my house did it:

[cabinetman]

Depending on how small the radius is, you could do it with angle cuts, but you'll still have flats showing. If you want to have a curved base, that can be done easily with a bent lamination to a form you make from a template. Sounds like overkill for a small piece or section, but once in place, it looks like the house was built around it. If you want a quick solution there are flexible mouldings that you can buy that work well. Some of those little details can take up as much or more time for a run in a room than all the rest of the room. Part of the decision making might be if it is to be finished woodwork, or painted, and how much you want to involve yourself in the project.

For developing a base moulding, or one that is topped with a profile of some sort, or to match up a curved moulding to straight moulding, here is one method.

This is a procedure to make curved moulding, that is of any profile. If what you want is larger or longer than the solid stock you have, or it's too much to make it out of solid stock, this might work for you. I came up with this method many years ago out of necessity, with excellent results. The idea with this is you will be needing two (2) lengths of identical moulding "A" and "B", to make curved piece "C". Keep in mind this is a lamination method and the final moulding will have varied grain due to it being laminated from two different pieces of wood.

The profile in this explanation is just suggestive, with varied detail. Any detail will work, even crown of any size. As you see in the drawings, "C" is cut to be glued up and installed along its left side. You can start with buying two identical pieces of moulding or make them. The drawings for this explanation are segmented into 1/8" sections, to facilitate the use of an 1/8" kerf cut. Most woods will bend well in 1/8" thickness. Each segment of "A" and "B" represent a "save" or "saw kerf".

The cross hatched segments represent a "saw kerf". So, after slicing on the TS the segments of both "A" and "B", you will save the segments "a" from "B", "b" from "A", "c" from "B", "d" from "A", etc, for the rest of the profile.

When you have the "saved" segments they will get glued up to form "C" moulding. They can be glued up and clamped all at once or a few at a time. It's imperative to align the moulding up so the profile will be consistent.

Taller curves can be created by just vertically stacking one or more profiles, provided you have made forms for the moulding to glue to. Segments that are covered by another segment can be pin nailed if necessary.

.