Shed Mostly Complete

**TB Roye** · 08-26-2008, 08:21 AM

Steve

Nice look shed. Don't have worry about leaks, it looks very well built and off he wet ground. Are you going to build a ramp for it?

Tom

**dbhost** · 08-26-2008, 08:25 AM

Nice, now just slide that sucker into my back yard and we are all good..

Seriously though. Good job on that shed. Where did you get the plans for it? Looks good & solid from the outside anyway...

**crokett** · 08-26-2008, 08:41 AM

Very nice work. You should be proud. Doesn't look like it is gonna leak from where I sit.

**ssmith1627** · 08-26-2008, 08:47 AM

It's actually a little TOO high off the ground. I should've left out that 4" block. But it worked out ok. Seems very stable right now. I'm happy with how it came out. The flooring is screwed in place so no creaks and groans as you walk around.

I had in mind to build a ramp and was thinking through that process. But then I realized the doors overhang the joist there by about 2 inches. If I built a ramp, the doors wouldn't close. This is fine because it will shed water down and give it no chance to get inside. But it doesn't work for the ramp idea.

I had some crappy ramps I had built for my trailer. The trailer has two metal brackets on each side that a 2x4 fits into. I made sides for the trailer and they fit in place using those brackets. The ramps I made have a little angled 2x4 cleat at the top that fits into that same bracket and at the same time puts the ramp flush with the deck of the trailer.

So my solution was to use the same setup on the shed. I used lag bolts to attach two of those metal brackets in the right place on the joist and the same ramps for the trailer now fit in place on the shed. This doesn't work for my riding mower however. The ramps are too short and they create too much of a "bump" for the mowing deck to clear. They were junk anyway, made from scrap. So I'm going to build some longer, sturdier ramps now that will still work for both the trailer and the shed.

Steve

**pelligrini** · 08-26-2008, 08:49 AM

Look like a solid job. Was that a kit?
One thing I need to do on mine is to put a drip above the door and weatherstrip it. I'll get a small amount of water down the jambs and some at the head, especially if the rain is wind driven.

With all that land around the house, and your refined carpentry skills I bet you might be considering a big shop.

**ssmith1627** · 08-26-2008, 08:54 AM

This actually was a kit, yes. I didn't want to spend $3000 to have someone build a shed and place it there for me. I didn't want a cheaper metal building. I know what those are like -- have one behind this shed that I can now tear down. And I had to find something I could tackle myself. I managed to build this alone. My wife helped for about an hour when I was getting the roof sheathing in place. Otherwise, it was a one man show.

Since I hadn't built anything like this before, I just went with a shed kit. I had looked at plans for a saltbox shed and then another gable roof shed. It really wouldn't have been a lot different. Just cutting the parts to length. That's really all I gained from the kit -- the time savings in doing that. There's nothing fancy to this kit at all. And it's totally a storage shed for me -- I didn't care about windows or anything like that.

Even out in the county here -- anything over 120 sq. feet requires a permit. So I went with this 8 X 12 shed. This was enough for me to take on by myself.

Steve

**dbhost** · 08-26-2008, 09:01 AM

So it was just pre cut lumber, not pre built wall panels, roof joists etc?

I still need to put a shed up... But if the cost of DIY lumber cutting is enough less than a kit, I will cut my own lumber... I have plenty of saws!

**ssmith1627** · 08-26-2008, 09:01 AM

Originally posted by crokett

Very nice work. You should be proud. Doesn't look like it is gonna leak from where I sit.

Thanks guys. I appreciate that. It's easy to make it look good from 100 feet away. Plenty of flaws if you get up close. But I'm happy with how it turned out. After this rain passes, I'll get the caulking and painting done.

Steve

**ssmith1627** · 08-26-2008, 09:04 AM

Originally posted by dbhost

So it was just pre cut lumber, not pre built wall panels, roof joists etc?

I still need to put a shed up... But if the cost of DIY lumber cutting is enough less than a kit, I will cut my own lumber... I have plenty of saws!

I have a whole workshop of saws too. haha I was just afraid to take on any more by myself. I got really lucky with the rain. I literally worked every day on it for 2 weeks. It's tough when you work full time to try to get this kind of thing done quickly.

No, the walls were not pre-built at all. Had to build the stud walls just like you would for anything else. Used plywood gussets to build the roof trusses. I made a jig on the deck of the shed so all the trusses would match. That worked fairly well. It was really like building it from plans except that the parts were already there and cut.

Steve

**ssmith1627** · 08-26-2008, 09:08 AM

Originally posted by pelligrini

Look like a solid job. Was that a kit?
One thing I need to do on mine is to put a drip above the door and weatherstrip it. I'll get a small amount of water down the jambs and some at the head, especially if the rain is wind driven.

With all that land around the house, and your refined carpentry skills I bet you might be considering a big shop.

I'd like to hear more about what you have in mind there. That's my big question. There aluminum angle on the inner edges of each door and then a metal piece attached to the left door that sticks out for the right door to close against it. That covers the gap between the doors and since they overhang the joist below slightly, water will travel down and outside, not inside.

But what about ABOVE the doors. There's a piece of trim just above them. They close against the header over the doors but still, not so tightly that water couldn't get behind them. Maybe attach something just above the doors that sticks out a few inches and is angled to shed water out and away from the tops of the doors ?

Steve

**pelligrini** · 08-26-2008, 09:45 AM

Sounds like your seals a little bet better than my old one. I'll get some water that will run down the jambs. There's just a piano hinge on mine with some gaps at the top. The water will get in there and run down the sides of the 2x door frame. The OSB flooring is really starting to delaminate at sill/jamb corners. (the shed is well over a decade old though)

On the head of mine the doors close flush with the top 2x trim piece. I was just going to extend the trim with some 1x material fastened right onto the face of it. If the bottom edge of the trim is angled away from the door any water running down the wall above will drip at the new trim edge and not run back into my shed or on the top of the door. The angle would be done with ripping the trim board at an angle. Maybe I'll get to it sometime this year..

**LarryG** · 08-26-2008, 10:04 AM

Originally posted by ssmith1627

Maybe attach something just above the doors that sticks out a few inches and is angled to shed water out and away from the tops of the doors ?

For outswinging doors that aren't under a roof, we detail an aluminum drip strip that mounts with its bottom edge 1/8" above the door's top; i.e., just barely enough to clear. This could be mounted on a piece of wood trim, 3/4" or 1-1/2" thick and beveled on the top edge, to move the drip out in front of the door a little farther. This whole assembly should extend at least a couple inches past the jambs; 4" would be even better.

Since you don't have a roof overhang, you're not going to get a lot of protection from wind-blown rain no matter that you do. But this drip strip (or something similar) will prevent water running down the wall above the doors from wicking inside when it gets to the gap at the head.

**footprintsinconc** · 08-26-2008, 10:22 AM

looks great! the colors are nice. so are you going to dress up around the bottom?

man, i looked at all 9 pictures in the link, even the house, looks like they are lower on the right side (tilted towards the right side)

.

**cabinetman** · 08-26-2008, 10:42 AM

Originally posted by ssmith1627

I'd like to hear more about what you have in mind there. That's my big question. There aluminum angle on the inner edges of each door and then a metal piece attached to the left door that sticks out for the right door to close against it. That covers the gap between the doors and since they overhang the joist below slightly, water will travel down and outside, not inside.

But what about ABOVE the doors. There's a piece of trim just above them. They close against the header over the doors but still, not so tightly that water couldn't get behind them. Maybe attach something just above the doors that sticks out a few inches and is angled to shed water out and away from the tops of the doors ?

Steve

Here's a suggestion for your weatherproofing for the front doors. Since everything is in place, you could use ordinary valley flashing. The cross member above the doors (the horizontal bottom of the triangle) presents two problems. First the top of it as it meets the fascia of the triangle is likely flat. Water will gather there and could be problem. Next, the bottom edge isn't tapered to drip off water, as pelligrini noted.

If you got some valley flashing, it bends and cuts very easy. You could cut a piece the length of the trim header over the door. Allow the length to be 3/4" or 1" of flat that will lay flat to the fascia. Bend a 45 degree so it reaches the face of the trim board. Then bend it 45 deg again so it lies flat over the face of the trim board. Then as it drops down the face, at the bottom of that board, bend it out at an angle to drip water away from the doors. You can caulk behind the upper edge where it meets the fascia, to stop all water.

For between the doors it sounds like you have a backer piece to cover the gap when the doors are closed. Along that idea, on the back of one door an astragal ofm sorts is fixed, so that edge can be waterproofed by the mere fact of it being tight to the back of the door. It doesn't have to be a "T" astragal, but just wide enough to provide a closing stop for the other door. For the other door that closes on the overhang, you can apply a stick-on foam weatherstrip that is thin, to the face of that piece and that will stop water. It doesn't take much.
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Shed Mostly Complete

Shed Mostly Complete

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