Shop A/C recommendations?

[rjwaldren]

It's official, the A/C is dead - It's only six years old and we're better off replacing than repairing. It was original to the house (built in 2002, we bought in 2006). The tech said based on the age the builder slipped one past the inspectors, because the efficiencey rating was to low even for the time it was installed. When he first saw the data plate he said he thought the unit was at least 13 years old. He also confirmed that the unit was wired correctly but should have had at least a 40/40 breaker instead of the "as built 30/30. Thank you, to everone who chimed in on my other thread.

So we'll be replacing it...ahem...shortly. Here's the problem, I've mentioned before that my wife is 8.5 months pregenant and not too comfortable right now. Temps are bouncing into triple digits around here and the HVAC contractors are busy, so we are likely looking at a couple of weeks before replacement can occur.

What type of window/portable units are you guys using in your shops. I'd like to find a reasonably priced unit to keep the house cool til the new CA is installed - Then I'll claim it as a shop A/C for my 22x20 garage - The garage is finished and fairly well sealed, but not insulated all the way around or above.

[dbhost]

Wally World no longer lists it, but I am using a GoldStar 10K BTU window unit with remote control.

I won't brag too much on it, it's just a basic cold air making box.

AS long as you insulate it, 10K BTU if fine for your 440sq ft shop... I need to finish insulating mine...

[pelligrini]

Before I got into my house now I was living in a 1920's house without central A/C. I had really good luck with a Kenmore unit from Sears. It was the highest BTU unit that still ran on 11v. That was also 15yrs ago new. I think it was 18000 BTU. It was a really energy efficient unit at the time. I still have one of them cooling an upstairs bedroom. Another one is out in my shop/shed, but it needs a subpanel so it can be used.

Without the garage insulation you might want to up the capacity. I would also spend a little more to get better energy efficiency. It'll pay off in the long run.

[docrowan]

I've got a used (meaning I fished it out of the neighbors trash one dark night) 7,500 BTU unit for my 12X20, partially insulated shop. If I crank it up in the morning and leave it running all day, it will keep up with the heat. I'd think you'd want at least a 10,000 BTU, preferably a 12,000. Energy efficiency is also important.

[Uncle Cracker]

HD sells a couple of 10,000 BTU portable units, with vented exhaust ports, but I gotta tell you that 10K is not enough to cool most houses, especially if there is also humidity to be abated. You might need multiple units, or just buy one, and simply close off a portion of your house for the short term, and keep that cool.

[rjwaldren]

Point taken, uncle cracker. The front area I'll be covering is about 900sq ft of open space. At night a portable unit, could taake care of both bedrooms that need it fairly easily.

It sounds like the Central Air should be replaced fairly quickly, though. The salesman that is bidding said he'd try to get it in right away...2 days max. I know, get more bids, but I've done business with these guys for years and have always had top notch service. As long as the bid is in the ballpark of what he estimated it's his.

Good news - happy wife, bad news - sweltering shop.

[iceman61]

According to the calculators last year when I checked, my 20X24 (9' ceiling)shop is supposed to need 18000 BTU A/C.

[maxparot]

In my shop which is 800sq ft with a 10' ceiling. I installed a 14,500 btu Westinghouse energystar model 4 years ago. I purchased it from Home Depot. It will cool my shop but takes a long time to do it. Once there it has no problems maintaining the temperture regardless of the outside tempertures. My shop is well sealed and insulated but located in Mesa AZ. the summertime temperature daily tops 100 and routinely goes 110+.
If I were looking for a new AC unit, I'd select a slightly higher capacity unit.

[just started]

You don't want to oversize by more than ~10% or you can actually cause humidity problems. If the compressor doesn't run in long enough bursts to remove the moisture completely the RH% can go up instead of down.