Water softener repair

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • dlminehart
    Veteran Member
    • Jul 2003
    • 1829
    • San Jose, CA, USA.

    #1

    Water softener repair

    I have a 10-year-old Kenmore water softener that stopped working recently. I first replaced the motor ($75!) that puts it through its cycles, and it seemed to be working (i.e., pumped) but didn't use up the salt. So I first cleaned the venturi, put resin cleaner in the system, and then replaced the venturi assembly when it wasn't improved. Still no salt usage, although it pumps water around, though more out of the system than between outer tank and resin tank. I used the online trouble-shooting guide, which got me to a "call an expert" conclusion.

    I can't see spending $450-$550 on a new water softener when this one seems so CLOSE to working! Anyone have ideas on how to proceed?

    If I do need to get a new one, what's the difference in the 30,000 grain vs 40,000 grain models besides the $100 or so in cost at HD? Would the cheaper one just end up using more salt and flushing water, whose cost would offset the lower startup cost? We have a 4-person household, with no unusual demands on softened water.
    - David

    “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” -- Oscar Wilde
  • Ed62
    The Full Monte
    • Oct 2006
    • 6021
    • NW Indiana
    • BT3K

    #2
    I don't have the answers to your questions. But if you do buy a new softener, I think I would consider getting one of those that cycle on when needed, not the kind that cycle at specified intervals.

    Ed
    Do you know about kickback? Ray has a good writeup here... https://www.sawdustzone.org/articles...mare-explained

    For a kickback demonstration video http://www.metacafe.com/watch/910584...demonstration/

    Comment

    • charliex
      Senior Member
      • Mar 2004
      • 632
      • Spring Valley, MN, USA.
      • Sears equivelent BT3100-1

      #3
      First the bad news. The life of the resin is about 10 yr's.
      First make sure the by-pass valve is in service position. (DAMHIKT) Then when you cleaned the venturi did you put the small flow plugs back with the concave side down ( number side up )? The next thing to check is the bottom of the tube that goes into the brine well. Pull it out and see if there is anything blocking water flow. I'm assuming that it is NOT putting water into the brine tank. If it were and not drawing down the brine tank would be full to overflow by now. If you have the instructions you can put these things in manual mode and cycle them, you can then watch what is happening at each step of the process. If not I may be able to walk you through it. You can replace the resin if you so desire but it is not easy. Another thing is if you have been using rock, block or salt other than a good pellet you may have gunked up the system with impurities.
      If I can be of fruther assistance PM me.
      Chas

      Comment

      • L. D. Jeffries
        Senior Member
        • Dec 2005
        • 747
        • Russell, NY, USA.
        • Ryobi BT3000

        #4
        Just went thru about the same problem. Old Kenmore that did the same thing. Problem (mine anyway) was a build up of hard salt in the bottom that prevented the tube that runs down the round pipe on the inside from pumping water into the salt well. Anyway, I only found out this was the problem after I had replaced the bugger. Don't know if I could have done anything to correct the condition, repair people said don't load the tank with more than a couple of bags of salt. stuff "bridges" real easy, especially in humid conditions. As already mentioned, get an "on demand" style. Only re-salts when needed. Total capacity depends on hardness of your water...more hard..more capacity needed.
        RuffSawn
        Nothin' smells better than fresh sawdust!

        Comment

        Working...