Loud noise when cold water turns on - any ideas?

[Alex Franke]

This scared the bejeebes out of me this morning. I turned on the cold water at the kitchen sink and I heard a loud vibration/buzzing noise coming from somewhere - not sure where. It was almost as if someone had turned on an air compressor out in the garage or something. A few minutes later it didn't happen at all. A few minutes after that it happened again.

I thought the "water hammer" effect happened when you turned the water OFF. Anyone have any idea what I should look for here?

[IBBugsy]

Was the faucet spraying air out along with the water. You're right about water hammer occurring when you shut the water off but maybe air is getting into the water line from a leak somewhere? More typical in the hot water side since water heaters tend to leak evenutally....

If there isn't any air coming out of the faucet and the stream looks normal, I have no clue????

[Alex Franke]

No, no air comes out with the water... Just a very normal water flow. The sound cuts on immediately when the cold water is turned on, and cuts off immediately when it's turned off.

[dkhoward]

you sure that wasnt your wife in the shower when you turned on the hot water and she got a cold blast. Happens at our house and the noise is atrocious and scares the bejezus out of me too.

[Alex Franke]

LOL -- I'm sure, but it would have been darn funny if that actually were the problem! Thanks for the laugh!

[x00018]

Check the flush valves in your toilets. If the washer has dried out it will suck air when the pressure in the lines drop when you open a faucet.

[sweensdv]

Sounds to me like the washer in your cold shutoff valve for the kitchen sink has worked its way loose. You usually need to shut down the water to the whole house to fix one of those.

[TheRic]

Is the problem ONLY with the cold water?

Do you have shutoff valves that you can turn off sections of the house? Might help in isolating the problem.

Does it ONLY happen at the kitchen sink?

[Alex Franke]

Is the problem ONLY with the cold water?

Do you have shutoff valves that you can turn off sections of the house? Might help in isolating the problem.

Does it ONLY happen at the kitchen sink?

Well, I didn't get around to testing it everywhere. It happened about 5 times this morning, but not since. I only tested it at the kitchen sink. It was only the cold water. I have one shut-off valve for the whole house, then the shutoff where the water comes onto the property.

Sounds to me like the washer in your cold shutoff valve for the kitchen sink has worked its way loose. You usually need to shut down the water to the whole house to fix one of those.

I wonder -- the noise sounded muffled -- as if it were coming from the other side of the wall in the garage, but it might have just been muffled because it was under the sink.

Check the flush valves in your toilets. If the washer has dried out it will suck air when the pressure in the lines drop when you open a faucet.

Wow -- who'da thunk. We do have some problems with the downstairs toilet tank emptying. Ill have to keep an eye on this, too.

[Alex Franke]

Sounds to me like the washer in your cold shutoff valve for the kitchen sink has worked its way loose. You usually need to shut down the water to the whole house to fix one of those.

I heard it again tonight, and I think you're right. I opened the cabinet and put my hand on the knob where the faucet line attaches to the pipe, turned the water on, and felt a pretty dramatic vibration.

Am I at risk of a serious leak here? Is this something a reasonably handy DIY'er can do, or is it best left to the pros?

[sweensdv]

The repair is pretty simple and straight forward. After you've shut off the water to the stop valve just unscrew the valves bonnet nut. The stem assembly will then just screw out of the valve body. At the end of the stem you'll find the washer which is held in place by a screw. As long as you have it apart, I'd go ahead and replace the washer.

[BB]

I have the same problem! Usually happens when an outside water faucet is on at the same time as the kitchen faucet is flowing. The water does not have to be running through the water hose outside, just on. I built my home about 5 years ago and it was doing it then bad. My plumber came out and said it was the pressure regulator for the house. The noise did not happen as much when he replaced it, but would still make the sound sometimes. The sound sounds like the pipes are squealing or resonating (if that can happen). Good luck on finding the problem and please let us know what you find.

BB

[DUD]

It happens in Our Home also, mostly for the LOML. I will check out and see if I can find out My problem. Bill

[Thalermade]

Try http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hammer
Where air filled traps are used, these sometimes become depleted of their trapped air over a long period of time through absorption into the water. This can be cured by shutting off the supply and draining the system by opening taps at the highest and lowest locations, which restores the air to the traps and then closing the taps and opening the supply.

or http://www.homeandgardensite.com/dcf...rumID15/1.html
The noise you are hearing is called “Water Hammer” and it can be damaging to your water supply system. The noise is the result of your pipes being jarred due to an abrupt stop in water flow. This shock to the pipes is often enough to cause them to move and strike objects in your walls or floors such as studs or floor joists. The movement and the impact can eventually cause joints to leak or may even cause pipes to fatigue and crack. This shock can also cause damage to valves and other parts of the plumbing system. The remedy is to install “Water Hammer” suppressors at each faucet in your house. This should include all hot and cold faucets, all toilets, and laundry water supply lines. In new construction this is a fairly easy task but in an existing plumbing system it may be next to impossible.
A “Water Hammer” suppressor is usually nothing more than a vertical length (10”- 12”) of pipe with a cap on the top. Trapped air in this pipe acts like a cushion and helps absorb the shock produced when the flow of water is stopped abruptly. There are also manufactured units available that contain pressurized bladders that can be installed at any angle. For best results both of these types should installed at the end of the pipe with the supply line feeding the faucet coming off a Tee just before the suppressor.
In an existing house the areas that still should be relatively easy to get to would be the kitchen sink and bathroom sink. If by chance one of these are near the area that is causing the problem you’re in luck. If not, installing suppressors wherever you can may help some anyway. Other areas to consider would be in water lines that might be accessible in a basement or craw space. If this is an option using the manufactured units and installing them toward the end of the water lines (furthest away from your pump or city water supply line) might be helpful.
I hope this has helped. Please let me know if you need more information.


Hope this helps
Russ