More pool maintenance ???

[crokett]

So I've already figured out that the chlorine tablets are slow-release and you shouldn't crush them with a framing hammer because you don't have a strainer.

Now after the rain I shocked the pool last night and the water was clear. Ran the pump for several hours but today the water is yellowish brown. Not brackish, just colored. The pH and free chlorine test out ok both last night and tonight. Did I

A) use too much chlorine for the shocking
B) leave some leaves/etc in there for too long - there are some still in there
C) not run the pump for long enough (maybe connecting to the drain is not giving good circulation?)
D) something else

Stupid pool.

[Slik Geek]

Get the leaves out!! When you shocked the pool, you added an abundance of chlorine. That chlorine will break down organic materials. I'm guessing that the color you see is a byproduct of the breakdown of the leaves. (Not certain - could be some algae?)

1) Clean the pool.
2) Adjust levels (total alkalinity, cyanuric acid, pH).
3) Shock the pool.
4) Recheck levels the next day.
5) Experimentally determine how much chlorine and pump time it takes to keep the free chlorine level where it should be (usually 1-3 ppm). (Heavy use may impact this).

Also, is this the first time you have run the pump? What kind of filter do you have? (type, not brand).

How good is your pool circulation when the pump is running? Recommendations that I have seen suggest a minimum of six hours a day of filtering operations.

[crokett]

I will get the leaves out. Its not algae. The water is clear, just tinted if that makes sense.

This is not the first time I've run the pump but I think I need to run it longer. I was told run it long enough to filter all the water once per day. Pump is rated for 800 GPH. I have about 2400 gallons so that should be 3hrs. The last few times I've pushed it to 4. It will get easier once I run permanent power. I will install a timer in-line and run the pump overnight. Also was suggested on the water going back into the pool add a fitting to redirect the water along the side. This will create water movement and improve circulation.


Filter is the stock filter that came with the pump. Since pump intake is hooked to the drain, no strainer basket yet - I will try to work out a fitting so I can hook that up too.

[Russianwolf]

I will point out that chlorine evaporates very quickly, so you have to keep feeding it tablets. How are you supposed to add the chlorine on this pool? Some you drop tablets in the skimmer, others have an adjustable flow container in the pump.

[crokett]

You add the chlorine with the skimmer that I do not have hooked up yet since I am running the pump intake to the drain. I will either attach the skimmer to the inside of the drain or get a floaty that I can put the tablet in.

[Ken Massingale]

Dave, you are having entirely too many problems with this little pool.
We have a nice 18 by 36' inground with slide, diving board, etc. that is free for the taking. Just come down I-85 and get it. ;-)
Even have new chlorine and baking soda that can go with it.

[vaking]

David,
Numbers don't look right unless you have a small above-ground pool. I have an inground pool and I estimate its size at about 15000 gallons. The pump should be running during the day when it is hot, running the pump at night is ineffective. I run mine 10AM - 8PM every day. Tablets are stabilized chlorine, they disolve slowly. I have few tablets in the skimmer all the time and they last for nearly a weak. Putting tablets in the float where the water flow is small will probably give you not enough chlorine. I think float is used more with granular chlorine (less stabilized). Also - when you shock the pool you add non-stabilized chlorine in quantities exceeding normal several times. This chlorine should disintegrate quickly but the next day after the shock chlorine measurement should show off-the-scale levels. If you got normal chlorine level the next day - shock did not work. The color in the water might not be organic at all. If you had PH or alkalinity levels out of whack and you recently brought them to level you may have metal in the water. I suggest checking water at some pool place (Leslie's do that for free).

[crokett]

Ken you are a mean mean man. The first problem was getting the pump working in an unorthodox way. Plumbing is never easy. Now the problem is that I know what I am doing with pool maintenance in the same way I know how to make clothes. I could get out the sewing machine and make something you could wear that vaugely resembles clothes but I'd have to get, the err, wrinkles out of the process.

Another thing is conflicting advice. For instance, running the pump during the day. All the advice I have previously says run it at night on a timer. I'd prefer that cause people aren't swimming then, but why does it matter?

[Jim Boyd]

Your pump may be rated at 800 gph but if your plumbing and filter are sized smaller you will not get the 800 gph. Experiment with your run times to find the optimum time. Running during the day or night doesn't really matter. UV rays will burn the chlorine wether the water is moving or not. It can be advantageous to run during use simply to be filtering the water while it is being dirtied up. Putting tablets in the skimmer used to be bad news. The pH of chlorine is very low and putting it in the skimmer would cause excessive corrosion in the pump/filter. Nowadays you can get away with this because newer equipment has less metal parts. When checking your water make sure the ALKALINITY is correct FIRST before anything else. If it isn't right you will be chasing your tail trying to get the rest right.
Take the above advice as you will. I made my living cleaning/maintaining pools for 7 years till I got tired of being a maid

[Philippe]

Running at night Ineffective?

Vaking, noticed in your reply you said running the pump at night is ineffective.
Wondering why. What's the difference? Sun usually breaks down chlorine.
Just curious.

[crokett]

Gonna let the experts handle it. I got a water sample and will bring that in to a pool place today to get it tested and have them tell me what I need.

[vaking]

There is no uniformed opinion when to run the pump. Some places suggest running it 24 hours, others in the day time, third - suggest at night. For instance - this suggests during the day:
http://members.cox.net/mrpoolman/wee...aintenance.htm.
All places agree that you need to run equipment during hours of heavy use and a total of 8 - 12 hours every day. The reason for running equipment during heavy use is obvious - that is when you generate dirt and running equipment at that time will prevent that dirt from accumulation. As for why day is more effective than night - chlorine dissipates during the day because of the sun. Chlorine is being replaced from dissolving tablets. Tablets dissolve much faster during the time when equipment is running - when there is water flow around the tablets (particularly if tablets are in the skimmer). If you run equipment during the day - the chlorine level stays stable because you resupply chlorine as it is being consumed. If pump runs at night - chlorine level goes down during day and comes back up at night creating oscillations.

[RichG]

I would run the pump continuously at least untill the pool is crytal clear.

I've only had my pool for a few years and just now feel I know how to manage it. Big thing I learned is whenever there is a problem with the water, (cloudy, green, dirty) shock it and shock it good. I have a big inground (20x40) and use 4-5 gallons of liquid shock when I shock. When I opened it this year for instance, I cleaned it, then I shocked it, and within 24 hours the water went from sea green to almost crystal clear. Then I adjusted the PH and started feeding it clorine tabs.

I run my pump continuously. It was installed with a timer but I found I've had far fewer problems with water quality with it running continuously.

[crokett]

Ok.... Another question - how long after I shock it should the water take to clear? It is still colored. I put the shock in and tested 2hrs later. Free chlorine is reading high, pH is low-normal.

[RichG]

Ok.... Another question - how long after I shock it should the water take to clear? It is still colored. I put the shock in and tested 2hrs later. Free chlorine is reading high, pH is low-normal.

The free chlorine should very high, around 10ppm after shocking. As long at the pump is running and you are getting good circulation it should clear (not green) w/in 24 hours. It might still be cloudy until the filter does it's job. What color is it now?

Also, If ph is low I'd add enough sodium carbonate to raise it to 7.2.

Rich