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Any recommendations out there?
Looks like I have a failing propane Rheem that is 6.5 years old. Warranty is 5 years. Woot.
Looks like I have a failing propane Rheem that is 6.5 years old. Warranty is 5 years. Woot.
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If your water is already hot, why do you need a heater?
Our mechanical consultants typically specify Rheem, State, and AO Smith. We get those brands and probably more (we do competitively-bid projects, for the most part) and I'm not sure there's a significant difference among them.
Biggest problem is the usual: they don't build 'em like they used to.LarryComment
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Why would someone want to heat hot water?
Anyways, I assume you are looking for another propane unit. Most gas heaters are easily converted, and most modern units are fairly reliable. Have a look at what's being offered at Sears/HD/Lowe's, I am sure something will fit.
If you have a boiler, your other option would be indirect fired, but these units tend to be expensive (I paid $800 for my WM Plus 40), and intallation is not a simple task as such heater is piped as additional priority zone on the boiler.
Tankless is probably not an option for you, as tankless heaters require a much larger gas input, and usually need a larger vent - unless they are ultra-efficient variety and use a radically different venting system. They cost a lot, too.Comment
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Funny you should ask. I just had one replaced yesterday. I went with the cheapest one I could find. Why? Because I'm selling my house this Friday. It couldn't have waited an extra week to go belly up... No.......AndyComment
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Turns out its a minor drip. Getting someone out Friday. Hopefully its something minor.
JR,
The thing is I actually take care of stuff. Killing my DC motor was just plain stupid, but generally I don't do stuff that stupid. Built house because I didn't want to deal with crap like this. So far bladder in pressure tank failed causing well pump to prematurely fail, fan motor in outside unit of HVAC (fixed that one myself and saved a bundle), control unit for dual zone HVAC, pump failure for septic pump which pumps to sand mound septic and now this. House is 6.5 years old. None of this was covered under warranty. Unreal.Comment
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Have them change the heater's anode rod, while they're out there. After 6.5 years, it's well overdue.Last edited by LarryG; 05-22-2007, 02:44 PM.LarryComment
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Check out http://tinyurl.com/ddfwl at www.waterheaterrescue.com
Highly recommended.
This site has an excellent description of how to keep hot water heaters running indefinitely with minimal maintenance. I've done their recommended procedure on two tanks, and it is amazing how much sediment a proper flush removes from the tank. The only hard part is removing the old anode rod.Comment
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Mind you, there ARE heaters that don't need anode rods - but the price difference will usually make up for a lifetime supply of rods.
Weil McLain Plus series of indirect fired heaters are glass lined, and require zero maintenance.Comment
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A leak could be due to the relief valve - mine leaked on our natural gas water heater a year or more ago. Our water pressure is pretty high and may have been part of the issue. I think I went thorugh a couple of new relief valves before I got one that would stop the leak. Relief valves are a lot cheaper than water heaters, fortunately.
Replacing a water heater is easier than most people think. I think it is a good do it yourself job if you are careful. The only risky part is the connection to what will do the heat (electricity or gas). You also have to be able to make a connection in the type of plumbing pipe that is used (in my case plastic but last time I replaced a water heater it was copper). The new tank is rarely exactly the same as the old.
For a replacement, I go to the Lowe's and maybe cross check the Home Depot and pick something up. Price differences are more insulation than anything else. More insulation saves money in the long run, however, so is probably a good idea but what I buy tends to be determined more by how much I feel like spending. A couple hundred bucks or so every 7-10 years has never seemed too bad to me - I guess I could get a few more years if I would replace the anode but I never feel like turning it off, letting it cool, tugging like crazy on the silly old anode to get it out, and then relighting the water heater. I am not saying it is not smart to replace the anode, just commenting why I don't.
JimComment
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Jim,
Hopefully it is the relief valve. We have some pretty kicking pressure. Our house has 2 dishwashers, 3 full baths, 2 full kitchens, etc so there can be some competition between users! Our basement is fully finished 950 sq ft with full bath, full kitchen and full (of something) in-laws! If this thing fails I will likely get the biggest water heater I can get fit in the area (while balancing energy costs). With everything already being installed and basically a disconnect/reconnect job I would be comfortable doing it. Never messed with LP before though, so gotta be careful on the exhaust, etc.Comment
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Jeffrey,
Exhaust is no big deal IMHO, you just have to make sure the pipe is over the heater. Big deal is checking the gas connection with soapy water after you connect it to the new unit. You want NO bubbles (from gas blowing through the soapy water). A few drops of dishwashing detergent into a small bowl is all you need. A little brush is nice for applying the soapy water.
JimComment
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In an interesting twist the WH completely stopped leaking by the next morning. Relief valve?Comment
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