Help with screening in my patio please

[MilDoc]

LOML wants me to turn our back patio into a screened room to keep the bugs out most of the year. Basic "wall" construction is easy - I've done that before - but only indoors. Can y'all help with some questions? Patio pictures attached.

1. I was planning on using composite "wood" for the construction, mainly for low maintenance. Think that's OK, or would pressure treated lumber be better?
2. Attaching the sills to the in-place concrete patio. Anchors no problem. But do I need to put anything (construction adhesive, caulk, etc) under the wood?
3. Attaching the uprights to the brick (probably hollow ) columns: a) with what? b) attach whatever anchors to the brick or the inbetween concrete c) what do I use for a seal between the wood and the brick column since there is obviously an "opening" between the bricks, and wood flat against the column would leave a gap - caulking, foam weatherstripping, or?
4. Attaching the uprights to the house itself - pretty much the same questions as #3? Same method, or?

And, of course, anything else I need to know??? Thanks in advance!

[crokett]

LOML wants me to turn our back patio into a screened room to keep the bugs out most of the year. Basic "wall" construction is easy - I've done that before - but only indoors. Can y'all help with some questions? Patio pictures attached.

1. I was planning on using composite "wood" for the construction, mainly for low maintenance. Think that's OK, or would pressure treated lumber be better?


I think I'd use PT since you are attaching additional framing for the screens to it. I do not know the structural strength of composite - I've only used it for trim work.

2. Attaching the sills to the in-place concrete patio. Anchors no problem. But do I need to put anything (construction adhesive, caulk, etc) under the wood? Caulk after the wood is in place. Use painter's tape on the concrete to get a nice line and pull the tape while the silicone is still wet.

Tapcons. The blue screws at the BORG. You can also use adhesive and then you know the wood is not going anywyere. Also get a hammer drill if you don;t have one. It will make the drilling go much faster.

3. Attaching the uprights to the brick (probably hollow ) columns: a) with what? b) attach whatever anchors to the brick or the inbetween concrete c) what do I use for a seal between the wood and the brick column since there is obviously an "opening" between the bricks, and wood flat against the column would leave a gap - caulking, foam weatherstripping, or?
4. Attaching the uprights to the house itself - pretty much the same questions as #3? Same method, or?

Same as #2. When going into brick locate the screws in the mortar joints and not the bricks. Also, I'm pretty anal so before I put the screw in I squirt a little silicone caulk into the hole. After the framing is in place use paintable silicone caulk to seal all the gaps.

[cabinetman]

If that were my patio, I would do the framing (columns, deck, ceiling) with PT 2x4's. I would divide the large openings into an upper and lower half, and then divide those two openings again, vertically. Then I would use PT moulding, or treat moulding as an outter and inner stop for a screen moulding that would be removable (in case of damage). All the wood parts could be stained with a solid color stain.

As for attachment, I would just secure the 2x4's to the brick without anything in between and use the tapcons, but go into the brick. So, what you will wind up with is a framed out opening, and the outter trim stop moulding would be the "fixed" member on the 2x4, which could be a 1/4 round. the actual screening would be applied to a separate screen frame, and then the inner stop, which could be a square, rectangular, or 1/4 round moulding. I believe when this is done with aluminum, there isn't any sealant used between the aluminum and the walls/deck, but I could be wrong. You could caulk after all is installed.

[crokett]

As for attachment, I would just secure the 2x4's to the brick without anything in between and use the tapcons, but go into the brick.

Mike,

Are you sure? I was always told to go into the mortar. You get a more secure hold because bricks are hollow and you will have part of your screw in empty space. Also, you risk cracking the brick if you put fastners into it.

[bhornberger]

Why not go with an automated screen?

http://www.thescreenpros.com

[MilDoc]

Why not go with an automated screen?

http://www.thescreenpros.com

That is a nice idea, but SWMBO wants 1/2 walls, as cabinetman suggested.

[siliconbauhaus]

Pt wood as everyone else said as I assume you'll paint it to match the trim.

I'd use some DPM material under the foot plate and then caulk it. You should do the same for the sides against the brick columns and the top.

[10sCoachRick]

2. Attaching the sills to the in-place concrete patio. Anchors no problem. But do I need to put anything (construction adhesive, caulk, etc) under the wood?


Our 'car-porch'(carport gave up 1/2 of total area in order to screen in porch---many others in our neighborhood were done the same way back in the 60s) has 2x2 framing for screening attached directly to floor. Any caulk or adhesive would help keep out critters but will also preclude the escape of any water that might sneak in(we get plenty of rain on the porch even though it is a completely covered area)...I later created a gap on the 'downstream' side of the porch at the base of the half-wall divider so water can flow out through the carport side. The 'baseboard' on this wall is poly-foam trim to stand up to the water--about 1/4" gap for the water to flow through(we usually have to wash down the porch a couple of times during pollen season).

The framing along the brick columns was 1960s' mortar anchor attached with some sort of caulky filler added who-knows-when...pretty good sized gaps otherwise. The vertical sections were somewhat divided into 4' on-center sections--allowing 48" screens to be used without cutting. I've seen plenty that were larger for viewing purposes but larger screens are tougher to work with and keep tight.

Regarding the lower section, no worries if it is a solid wall but if some will be screened, consider dog and cat interest in clawing through to get inside.

Thanks for reminding me that some 45mph winds detached a couple feet of screen on our porch--yet another project to add to the list!

[Handy Al]

If you are going to staple to screen on. Get one of HF's air staplers. Makes the job a lot easier. Start at the top in the middle and work your way to both ends. Then do the bottom and then the sides.

[dlminehart]

I'd be inclined to use PT only where there was ground contact. Elsewhere, I'd use regular lumber, well primed and top coated with good exterior paint. Keep in mind that the current generation of (non-arsenical) PT may be easier on us humans but is really hard on metals; you'll probably have to use stainless staples, nails, etc.

[cabinetman]

Mike,

Are you sure? I was always told to go into the mortar. You get a more secure hold because bricks are hollow and you will have part of your screw in empty space. Also, you risk cracking the brick if you put fastners into it.

David

If they are real bricks they are not hollow. I would drill into the brick not the joint. The correct drill bit for the Tapcon used should leave a nice clean hole that the Tapcon will pull up tight to. I usually just bump the last turn or two in so as not to strip out the hole. Drilling out the mortar joint would weaken the joint between bricks, if they are real bricks and not a facade.

[MilDoc]

OK. More questions ...

I greatly appreciate all the replys. Once I've digested them I'll post what my plan has become. But ... another question re: columns and house wall, bricks, and attaching the wood. Pics now are of 1 column and a brick out of a bunch that the previous owner left behind. Note it has several holes in the center. I guess that would be called a "hollow" brick. So, if I try to attach the wood to the columns, I might hit a "hollow," or I might hit the approximately 1/2" brick between the holes. OK, this is confusing. Hope you get what I mean. I sure don't want to ruin the columns supporting the roof!

[siliconbauhaus]

chances are....there's a steel post inside that column doing all the holding up....the brick is merely a veneer.

[Crash2510]

I would try to hit the mortar joints with good tap cons because chances are you will break the screws long before you break the brick.

[thestinker]

When we did my inlaws porch, we had the bottom plate for the 1/2 wall resting on some aluminum square so there was a drainage gap between the porch and the screening so when it rained the water could get out. Also elimintes the whole rot thing. I wuld also shoot for the morter in the bricks and not the bricks them selves. HD or lowes also sells this track stuff that the screening will press into with one of those wndow screening tools. They inturn slip into a track or fasten (I can't remeber which) to the posts and framing you make. That way ot a section gets torn, or its time to paint, just take it down real easily and when you have made your repair / repainted, just screw it back up. No mess no fuss.