Vinyl Siding

[DUD]

I am getting ready to install or have it installed, vinyl siding. My soffitts and fascia are already done so all I have left is the straight runs. I have helped on a job a long time ago, and have read quite a lot on the subject. I'm interested in brands, thickness, and is it a job for a DIY'er with a helper? Thanks, Bill

[crokett]

It is a job for a DIYer. When I was a teenager we built a 4 car garage from a kit and sided it. A few years ago we put siding on my parents' house.

A circ saw worked best for cutting. If you have or can get a smaller cordless like the 18v Ryobi it will be easier to manage than a full-size corded. SCMS would work too if you have one. I think the panels are too wide for one cut with a CMS. When you nail the siding up, don't put the nails down tight. the siding should be slip side to side a bit for expansion. Put the nails in the center of the nail holes, not at the eges. try not to line up seams in the siding with the corners of doors, windows etc.

[DUD]

Thanks David, I have the 18v Ryobi Circular Saw, heck I even have one the the Ryobi 18v Miter saws. Bill

[jhart]

We put up steel siding on a garage and porch a few years ago and it went pretty smooth. The concept for installing is the same as vinyl and David gave some excellent advise.

As you start to price the vinyl, and get to the thicker stuff, you'll find that the steel siding is pretty comparable in cost and a whole lot better for strength and durability. At least it was when we did it 4 - 5 years ago.

The starter strip at the bottom is crucial for lining it up with windows and doors, as well as keeping it level. Take some measurements to see how it will come out at those points.

[Mrk67mark]

One tip I learned from an old pro on cutting vinyl siding is to mount the blade backwards in the saw (circular or CMS). This minimizes the chances of chipping the siding.
Mark

[LarryG]

Another tip: at end laps, arrange things such that the end of the top, lapped-over panel is oriented away from the vantage point from which you want the house to look its best. IOW, you don't want to be looking at the ends of any lapped panels if possible ... that makes the lapped joints painfully obvious, whereas reversing the two pieces makes the end lap almost disappear as it "flows" away from the eye.

Also, while this is a matter of personal taste, I prefer the more realistic look of plain, smooth siding to that with the phony embossed woodgrain, which is typically way overdone and makes it all the more apparent the siding isn't real wood.

[Ken Massingale]

This should help some, Bill.
Ken

http://www.acehardware.com/info/inde...foPath=1920439

http://www.hometime.com/Howto/projec...ing/side_1.htm

This is the best one IMO, from the vinyl siding folks.

http://www.vinylsiding.org/publicati...al_english.pdf

[crokett]

Another tip: at end laps, arrange things such that the end of the top, lapped-over panel is oriented away from the vantage point from which you want the house to look its best.

Excellent point that I forgot. When we did the garage, part of one wall was not done this way and you can tell a difference. Also, start on the back wall or whichever one folks will see the least. You can make all your mistakes on that wall.

[Hellrazor]

Siding is fun.. been there and did a lot of that.

1. Use a plywood blade in the cordless circ saw and mount it backwards..

2. Install all the corners and run all your starter strip and level it around the whole building.

3. As someone mentioned, overlap the siding so its less noticable from the direction its most viewed.

4. Do not nail the siding tight and nail it in the middle of the slots. Siding should move side to side to allow for it to expand/contract. You can make siding look wavy if you nail it tight.

5. Make sure you cutback the nailing flange if you make your own overlaps out of pieces you already cut. Look at both ends of a new piece of siding and you will see what I mean.

6. Major note : vinyl siding is NOT waterproof. Make sure you have either tyvek or tarpaper under it. Make sure your windows are flashed properly. The small weap holes on the bottom of each piece of siding is there for a reason.

7. I perfer dutch lap siding. But that decision is all yours. Darker the color of your siding and the more noise it will make from expanding and contracting. So pick you color wisely depending your climate. I've used Certainteed and Wolverine vinyl siding on various jobs. They are about equal in my eyes.

NOTE -- Just logged into my supplier: Certainteed comes in the following thicknesses - .040 .042 .044 .046 and Wolverine comes in .040 .042 .044
We usually order the .042

[DUD]

Thanks Everyone, I'm gonna add it to my list. Bill

[mleichtle]

Ryobi makes, sells a vinyl siding blade for the cordles circular saw. I got one at HD. Make sure you pick up that tool, its pricless for that full piece above the windows. I used cedar creek siding from menards it has a heavier locking mechanism, almost makes that tool worthless, cause it hooks, so the tool doesn't get a good grab.

[JimD]

You also need to put the trim around the windows before starting the siding. I like to cut it so that the top piece is bent down on the inside part at each end so water will flow into the veritcal channel instead of behind it.

I did 3 sides of our former house by myself. Wasn't that hard. It was a two story house so I bought some pump jacks. That let me move at my own pace. The boxes are about 12 feet long so you will need a way to carry something that long. I put the thin fan fold insulation under the siding. It gives you more margin in nailing - you can squish the insulation without pinching the siding too tight for it to move.

Jim

[DUD]

Thanks for all the good advise, I really appreciate it. Bill

[Hellrazor]

Bill, when you get to your doors and windows you can use peel and stick flashing. Just make sure whatever you put it on is hidden by the J and siding.

Search for SKU 561339 at http://contractorservices.homedepot.com