Will This Sag?

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  • thiggy
    Established Member
    • Sep 2003
    • 229
    • Alabama.
    • Craftsman Contractor

    Will This Sag?

    A little old lady wants me to build a cover over her 2nd story deck, approx. 16’ long by 10’ deep. She drew up the plans supporting the two outside corners with 4 X 4s and the rear rim joist bolted to the house under the eaves. She visualized using 2 x 6 x 10’ for the rafters, attached to a doubled 2 x 6 x 16’ with a steel flitch plate bolted between them for rigidity. The roofing material is to be a PVC sheet product she described as Palruf PVC. It sounds to be a lightweight transluscent panel. She says it is not corrugated. She is spacing the rafters 16” OC using saddle hangars. I told her that the flitch plate will probably be rather expensive and I don’t know for sure where to purchase it. She would prefer not to have a support post in the middle of the front rim joist. Could just a doubled 2 x 6 span 16’ in this installation without sagging?
    SOW YOUR WILD OATS ON SATURDAY NIGHT - - - THEN ON SUNDAY PRAY FOR CROP FAILURE!
  • jabe
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2006
    • 566
    • Hilo, Hawaii
    • Ryobi BT3000 & Delta Milwaukee 10" tilting Table circular saw

    #2
    Doubled 2 x 6 will sag on a 16' span. Usually the distance of the span will dictate the width of the beam therefore a 16' span will require a 16" wide beam or a 4x16x 16' or 4x 18x 16' beam. Now-a-days the lumber/beams are cut from young trees and do not have the strength like old growth lumber/beams. I have seen 4x20 beams sag on a 20' span, they don't have the carrying power like before. Or you can go with an engineered beam/truss for the span and weight it will support. I'm not a structural engineer, just my opionion/experience building homes. I would have the lady consult an structural engineer for this before taking the job and risk having a recall.

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    • 91FE
      Established Member
      • Dec 2005
      • 303
      • Philadelphia (actually Souderton), PA.

      #3
      I take it you guys don't need building permits in Alabama?

      Originally posted by jabe
      I would have the lady consult an structural engineer for this before taking the job and risk having a recall
      sounds like a fine idea.
      Last edited by 91FE; 09-15-2006, 07:04 AM.
      I like Wagoneers too. Hey...they've got wood

      Comment

      • Russianwolf
        Veteran Member
        • Jan 2004
        • 3152
        • Martinsburg, WV, USA.
        • One of them there Toy saws

        #4
        my old 2 story deck is made of either 2x10 or 2x12 framing spaced 24" on center. The largest unsupported span is 12foot and it doesn't sag with with 5/4 decking on top of it. This deck is nearly 20 years old.

        I think for what she is trying to do (minimal weight load, no snow) 2x10's would work. 2x6's might sag a bit.
        Mike
        Lakota's Dad

        If at first you don't succeed, deny you were trying in the first place.

        Comment

        • Stytooner
          Roll Tide RIP Lee
          • Dec 2002
          • 4301
          • Robertsdale, AL, USA.
          • BT3100

          #5
          @x6 will indeed sag. I would go with a minimum doubled 2x8 with good crown. 2x10's are actually more expensive than 2x12's most places. 2x12's are very heavy and may sag some too. I think the best bet, since the roofing is so light, is to go with doubled 2x8. I have a doubled 16' 2x8 span accross my living room that I built. No sagging after 10 years so far.
          You do need a permit for some things. This would be one of those things, unless there was an existing roof.
          Getting a permit is just a matter of submitting a drawing of your intentions in this case. Then pay for it. All done in about 30 minutes where I live.
          Lee

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