Deck Project - Phase 3 (anchor board/joists)

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  • 91FE
    Established Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 303
    • Philadelphia (actually Souderton), PA.

    #16
    I'd go with PT plywood...should be fine.
    I like Wagoneers too. Hey...they've got wood

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    • Hellrazor
      Veteran Member
      • Dec 2003
      • 2091
      • Abyss, PA
      • Ridgid R4512

      #17
      Originally posted by PALefty
      Does anybody have any thoughts on this. I am unsure what size wood I should use here. It is an 8'' wide hole that I need to build out at least 1/2". Perhaps 3/4" would be better.. and if I had to go 1", then I have to. I would like to use pressure treated wood.. so that limits me. The closest I can think of.. is either pressure treated plywood.. or 2-1"x6" cut down to 1"x4" alternating joints.

      Ideas?
      Use PT for that.

      btw: I slope the deck, I just don't worry about making the angles 100% perfect like making a cabinet. Don't spent hours screwing around trying to perfect it surely when you are using mechanical hangers.

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      • PALefty
        Established Member
        • Feb 2006
        • 230

        #18
        Originally posted by Hellrazor
        Use PT for that.

        btw: I slope the deck, I just don't worry about making the angles 100% perfect like making a cabinet. Don't spent hours screwing around trying to perfect it surely when you are using mechanical hangers.
        Do you also think PT Plywood would be fine. It would certainly be the easiest... except for fitting in my vehicle.

        The one downside of either.. is it won't allow me to use a pre-formed flashing. Since I don't have a hand-brake, I will have to attempt to form one using a piece of wood. Do people typically just rest the flashing in place and let the decking hold it in place.. or nail in an area protected by my siding?

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        • GPA61
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2004
          • 712
          • Rancho Cucamonga, CA
          • BT 3100 & JET JWTS

          #19
          A lot of info at bestdecksite.com. You might want to check it out.
          Claudio

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          • Hellrazor
            Veteran Member
            • Dec 2003
            • 2091
            • Abyss, PA
            • Ridgid R4512

            #20
            Originally posted by PALefty
            Do you also think PT Plywood would be fine. It would certainly be the easiest... except for fitting in my vehicle.

            The one downside of either.. is it won't allow me to use a pre-formed flashing. Since I don't have a hand-brake, I will have to attempt to form one using a piece of wood. Do people typically just rest the flashing in place and let the decking hold it in place.. or nail in an area protected by my siding?
            I wouldn't use plywood, I'd use dimensional PT. I nail the flashing against the wall as high as possible and then whatever fasteners hit it while installing the decking. Remember to slip the top of the flashing behind your moisture barrier, either tyvek or tarpaper.

            edit: eye kant speeel gut

            Comment

            • PALefty
              Established Member
              • Feb 2006
              • 230

              #21
              Originally posted by Hellrazor
              I wouldn't use plywood, I'd use dimensional PT.
              I looked for dimensional PT that was the appropriate size... but they don't seem to make it. Anything an inch or under is usually 6" max width. I would need 7-8" width. I could use a 1x6 (or 5/4x6) which is typically sold for floor boards and then fill the gap with something else. Or- as I mentioned above, I could get use 2 1x6s and cut them down to size. I don't want another 2x... as that would put me way off the wall. What dimensional PT could I use?

              Comment

              • PALefty
                Established Member
                • Feb 2006
                • 230

                #22
                Originally posted by PALefty
                I recall reading some time ago, a trick to getting the proper slope on a joist. It was something about turning it upside down (crown down) and making your mark, cutting it, and turning it crown up. I don't recall the exact details. Does anybody know anything about this? Do people cut any angle off the end of the joist to account for slope.. or do you just nail it in as it comes and not worry about it?

                What is the best type of drill bit to use... when drilling for the anchor bolts or lag screws?
                So.... does anybody cut their joists to account for slope?

                Do we think an Auger style bit is best? Does anybody predrill for the lag bolts.. and if so, what size bit do you predrill with for a 1/2" lag (and still give it something to bite into).

                Comment

                • Hellrazor
                  Veteran Member
                  • Dec 2003
                  • 2091
                  • Abyss, PA
                  • Ridgid R4512

                  #23
                  Auger bit thats the size of the solid part of the lag, not the threads. So about 1/2 the actual size.

                  Back to the PT plywood, I just hate working with PT plywood and I am not sure it will meet code for what you are doing. Check with your inspector.

                  Comment

                  • PALefty
                    Established Member
                    • Feb 2006
                    • 230

                    #24
                    Crowns

                    If you are going to sandwich two large boards together (to go on top of posts) who's crown appears to be going toward the face of the board rather than the top, then what is the best way to join them. Should the two boards have the crown go in the same direction.. or in opposite directions? Should the crowns face inward or outward?

                    On Joists- If their doesn't appear to be a crown up.... is there something else to look for when considering which edge to point up?

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