Bosch 1617 mounting

[jx67]

I know this topic must have come up a number of times. Now that I am finally starting to do serious routing and I am stuck. I have the 1617 evs router 2-base combo and the router mounting accessory. I checked some of the post suggested drilling hole on the acc. table while some suggested the aluminum plate (which I thought make more sense). Some post suggests removing the base plate from the fix base while some suggest not. I am wondering if there's a definitive best way, especially from someone who's done it. Also, by looking at the base plate, it seems like I need to drill 4 countersink holes. Would really appreciate if someone could confirm that.

Also, did someone use this setup with raised panel bit? I haven't bought one but am not sure if the hole is big enough.

Thank you very much,
Joe.

[LCHIEN]

Use the Aluminum plate.

Remove the black base and use as a template to drill the aluminum plate. Then mount the router without black plate to the aluminum plate.

I always used the three hole pattern used to mount the black
baseplate, not the four hole pattern. THis (3 hole)pattern is also the Porter cable pattern .

Most raised panel bits won't fit the hole in the BT3 aux table.

[mehranh]

Who am I to oppose LCHIEN !! But now for an opposing view:

I have the 1617 and (before I sold my BT3100 for my move to SF) I had it installed directly to the table. I think I read somewhere that the 4 hole pattern is recommended by Bosch. Actually, I think it was on the online manual for their table mount base.
The mounting plate is perfectly fine...but I decided that I like an extra 1/4" of lift.

In regards to the raised panel bit: you can certainly use the style and rail bits ( I have used them to build my wifes sewing cabinet doors)...the true "raised panel" bits are usually very large even for many router mounting plate. I think you need 3"+ opening.

Having said that....1617 is a very powerful machine, but I think a large raised panel bit maybe somewhat taxing on it.

Just another man's opinion.

[Tom Hintz]

I also say mount it without the baseplate as all that would do is reduce the above-table height by it's thickness. In a table situation, the baseplate has no real function anyway.
Using the four-hole patern should make the installations slightly more rigid than the three hole (universal pattern) but by how much? Enough for you to notice a difference? I have my doubts. I think either pattern when drilled and secured properly will do just fine.
I have run large-diameter panel bits in the 1617 without problem. The main consideration it to take light cuts, which you should do anyway to get the best results regardless of available power. I currently have a 3 1/4 Hp router in my table and take the same depth of cut with that as with the 1617. I'm not in that big of a hurry!

[monte]

Taking light cuts with a raised panel bit will greatly increase the smoothness of the cut. At least take a few cuts and avoid hogging the amount removed with each cut.

[jx67]

Thanks to all for the answers. Just a quick summary if others run into the same.

Bosch 1617 can be mounted to bt using the mounting plate or directly. The original subplate from Bosch should be removed either way. Using the mounting plate has an advantage of not drilling to the aux. table but lost 1/4". It might not matter using 3 or 4 hole patent, but understandably 4 hole would provide better stability. One of the most important task is to drill the holes very precisely so do use the original plate to mark the holes and punch well before drilling. When marking the holes, consider the orientation carefully so you can change bits easily, so probably the best is the align the round handles parallel the saw blade line.

As for me, I use the 4 hole patent on the mounting plate. I haven't done the test run yet but it looks great for now.

Raised panel bits are too large except verticals. My problem with the vertical is that I also want to get the back cutting, and I do like the panel to be flush with the rails. Has anyone use the vertical and route on both sides?

Thanks again,
Joe.

[LCHIEN]

quote:Originally posted by jx67

...
Raised panel bits are too large except verticals. My problem with the vertical is that I also want to get the back cutting, and I do like the panel to be flush with the rails. Has anyone use the vertical and route on both sides?

Thanks again,
Joe.

The MLCS R&S instructions
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...railstile1.pdf
show a method where you can use the wide, horizontal raised panel bits on a table with smaller holes. Look in the instructions for a picture, I think towards the end, like on page 7. It may require using an extension collett, MLCS sells those, too.

If you want to use the vertical and still have some backcutting, you can simply use a rabetting router bit to do the back, takes one more set up and pass though but in reality it lets you take more off the front on each pass since you're not cutting back, too.

[Tom Hintz]

There is nothing stopping you from using the panel raising bit on both sides to produce the back cut. In fact, this is not uncommon in some types of furniture.
I have a dedicated back cutting bit I like because it cuts a gentle rounded profile on the inside of that cut making it look more finished. Before getting that I did as Lchien says and used a rabbeting or straight mortising bit for back cuts.

[jx67]

Thanks again, great idea.