Question #3 about T-Track

[lcm1947]

I have formed the idea that while the track that accepts the 1/4x20 bolt is good for most everything I am also wondering if the track that accepts the larger 3/8 bolt wouldn't be better for the fences. Wouldn't you need to apply more pressure to the fence then what the 1/4 x 20 bolt track is capable of? I would think the 3/8 track itself is stronger and therefore hold up better with having to apply the more pressure. Any thoughts. Sorry for all the questions but there's so many things to take into consideration.

[WEG]

Hi LCM1947
I have used the Brunner t track that takes the 1/4-20 bolts and I can't imagine you would need to increase the holding on any woodworking application, unless it's to hang your jointer or planer from it! The weak link I believe will be the screwing and/or gluing the track in the groove, not the holding power of the bolt in the track, but I haven't stressed one that far to find out. Check out http://www.brunnerent.com/Tools/Port...=3&strMetaTag= for the track, or brunnerent.com for the home site and then the "sliding track" and look at the "primary track". If I remember right (and I'm not 100% sure) they were about $5 for 4 foot lengths.
I used them on a mortice jig thing I made. You can see it on their website as well. I think they sell the entire kit for this for $28.
Hope this helps out a bit.
WEG

[monte]

I'm in agreement with WEG. I used mini-track that accepts 1/4-20 bolts for attaching my fence to my router table and have had no problems at all.

[LCHIEN]

I think you are obsessing about t-tracks, senor.

The t-tracks are usually held in with small screws into the base wood.
The screws will rip out long before the 1/4-20 bolts will fail.
There should not be very great forces on your fence.

The size of 1/4-20 is more convenient.

[RodKirby]

What Loring said...

[Tom Miller]

Concerning t-track's weak link, which I also concur is the screws holding it down: I usually drill and countersink an extra hole in between the holes provided in the Rockler t-track. I don't think they provide enough. Can't say how Rockler t-track compares to the others, though.

I should add that the only place I noticed this t-track weak link was while using drill press hold-downs. They really stress the t-track. Otherwise, I concur with Loring that there should never be great forces on your t-track, as long as the t-track surface is pretty close to flush with it's surroundings.

Regards,
Tom

[LarryG]

quote:Originally posted by Tom Miller

Can't say how Rockler t-track compares to the others, though.

Varies widely by manufacturer, apparently. For example, Woodpeckers has Incra track that's punched at 3" centers, and their own house brand track punched at 4" centers. IIRC Rocker punches theirs at 12" centers, which IMO is way too far apart.

I've been using the Lee Valley track (which won't accept a 1/4-20 bolt head, unfortunately, instead requiring separate rectangular nuts). It comes unpunched, which I actually prefer since I can cut the track to any length and put as many holes as I want wherever I need them in a nice, symmetrical pattern. (I'm not exactly in Rod Kirby's league but I am a little anal about these things.) Spacing is usually in the 4" - 5" range.

Any track that will be subjected to unusually large lifting/pulling forces can be set in a bead of Liquid Nails ... as long as you don't ever want to remove the track and reuse it.

[Tom Miller]

quote:Originally posted by LarryG

Any track that will be subjected to unusually large lifting/pulling forces can be set in a bead of Liquid Nails ...

Oh yeah, I like that!

Regards,
Tom

[JimD]

I mostly use wooden t-track for feather boards and stops. I can't imagine why the little metal track wouldn't be strong enough (I use metal on my drill press table and wood on the BT, router table, and radial arm saw fence).

Has anybody else tried toilet flange bolts in the little metal t-track? I had to file the toilet flange bolts a little but I find that the fence moves more smoothly than it did with hex head bolts. I did not like how the drill press fence moved so I tried the toilet flange bolts and I think they work significantly better. The hex heads seemed to want to rotate a little and dig in but the longer head toilet flange bolts apparently have less tendency to rotate and they have smoother edges so they do not tend to dig in. For whatever reason, the fence moves more smoothly.

I think there are better ways to fasten a router table fence down, however. I like slots in the fence and a t-nut (not the Ryobi kind, the hardware store kind with prongs) in the table or little bar clamps on the end of the fence. Both of these are smoother than a metal t-track - even with toilet flange bolts.

Jim

[lcm1947]

Boy do I feel stupid. [:I] Of course the track itself is the weak link. What can I say, sometimes I just don't think. OK, so forget the concern about using 1/4/x 20 bolts. Now Weg, I appreciate the referrence to that site but now I see there is another type of T-Track. Hmmm. It seems to take something called a Hex Head bolt. I'm not familiar with that type of bolt. The type I'm familiar with and fits in the track I've been looking at doesn't have that washer looking head. I'll have to see if they even carry that around here like at HD or Lowes but if the price you mentioned for the track is even close then that's a ton cheaper then the $17 to $19.00 for a 4 ft section I've seen. I'm looking into the pricing right now. Anyway, thanks for the site. And Loring - I obess, me? Hmmm, I guess I do recall my my wife saying that - just about every other day. but yeah you're right. Thanks to all for the advice and help. I've got a lot better feel on track thanks to you all. I do appreciate it - a lot.

[RodKirby]

Hex head bolts - standard - buy them "everywhere"...