New router..and new to routers...

[aquatic]

HOLY CRAP! I didn't know what I was missing. Based on a number of recommendations--including some positive words in this forum. I popped for a PC 894VS setup--plunge and fixed base. Naturally I broke it open when I brought it home, but no bits.. so.. A quick Holmgren order later and I have a nice assortment.

Finally broke the unit out for real today. Rather than pay the house builders a bizillion for pull out shelves in the cabinets, I thought that would be a good project. Simple shelves really, sides, front/back and the shelf sliders... Rabbett joints for the drawer.. on the front/rear piece, and rather than do 'em with the table saw (Yes, a BT3100 ) I thought the router and a nice 3/4" bit would do the trick. Since I wasn't used to cutting with the router, I played with several pieces of leftover wood, and WOW.. Maybe it's been awhile or something, but.....

1. Little noise. Really. VERY quiet. Course, I only ran the thing about 1/2 speed ( it's only cheap aspen I think ) so....

2. Nice bits/system...Easy to figure out the depth of the cut--harder to work out the base + bit distance ( turned out to be 3 1/4" )

3. SMOOTH as a baby's butt cuts. yeah, I know. New router, new sharp bits, etc etc, etc. Still.. OUTSTANDING. I may have a new favorite tool.


Couple of questions pop in to mind. Care and feeding....anything special to do? ditto for the bits.... Also.. any good/better ideas for figuring out the Rabbett cuts?? Trying to measure the base + the bit is a bit cumbersome, and while I thing the bases appear to hold the bits centered, it may not be 100% right on, so taking the radius of the base + 1/2 the bit width as the guide measurement isn't always right on....

Otherwise.. WOW. Nice unit. Now to score a V bit so I can notch a nice 90 degree channel and make a nice cutting channel for the LOML's sewing table.

[LCHIEN]

Oh, you can have a lot of fun with the router.
First, if the bit is 3/4" or less in diamater, you probably will
get the best (smoothest) cut running at maximum speed. Slow down
some when the bit approaches 1 to 1-/2" diameter, then maybe run
1/2 speed when you have 2- to 2-1/2" diameter or more bits. The
secret is keeping the linear velocity of the cutting tips up but
not too fast. When you double the diameter the edge of the cutting tips is moving twice as fast (inches per second) with the same RPMs.

Second, sounds like you are cutting a rabbet with a straight bit
from your description. They make special rabetting bits with a bearing that sets the width of the cut perfectly every time:


My favorite store is www.MLCSwoodworking.com. They sell
rabetting bits individiually or in kits. The individual bits can be
changed for rabbet width simply by buying additional bearings, but
the kit is so much easier to start. Here's link to some kits from MLCS:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ng_kits_anchor

As for centering the bit in the base, it can be quite important since making some cuts against a fence the base may rotate so a different part is against the fence. On my Bosch there are two sets of holes to mount the base. One countersunk for flat head, self-centering screws that they say is the best center for the outside of the base, and one set of flat-bottom countersunk holes that will shift every so slightly plus a centering bit so that the shaft can be center-tweaked as you wish in a template guide.

There are of course three kinds (or more) of V bits. One with a point for making 90 degree vees. One with a rounded point for making round bottom vees for lettering (signs) or simply no so sharp a bottom edge. and finally an edge chamfering bit with a bearing (kind of eqivalent to the rabetting bit discussed above) for making a precise chamfer.

Good luck!

[aquatic]

MMmmmmm.. special tools for the job. Well, I've ALWAYS said "use the right tool for the job" I can see I'll be doing some online shopping. I was using straight bits, 1/2" and it was a little tricky, but it worked. I noticed on my round over bits there is a little bearing on the bottom--I was playing with those as well, just to see what it would do.

I'll keep in mind the speed issues--I did play with that some, I'll do more with it tonight. Since the rabbets are cut, I need to put in a groove around the bottom of the boards for the 1/4" plywood sheet (for the bottom of the drawer of course) and make sure it all fits.. then glue, clamp and screw. So far, so good, and I'm enjoying this new hobby immensely!

[LarryG]

I make this recommendation so often, people probably think the authors are giving me a piece of their action, but they're not ... buy yourself a copy of "Woodworking With The Router" by Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack. About $20 at any bookstore; under $15 from amazon.com.

This is THE bible on routers and router usage ... handheld alone, handheld with jigs, table-mounted, the works. Quite possible the best "accessory" you'll ever buy for your router.

[WoodPirate]

I just recently popped for the same rig. Wanna see something really cool that you would never want to do with another router? That "smooth-start" feature is what they say. Put the router on your workbench with the bit raised up aboce the base so it doesn't touch the bench. Set it for max speed. Turn it on and let go quick! Most routers would do olympic gymnastics all over the shop, but yours will just sit there and spin up smooth and pretty.

Such a nice little pet to own!!! Enjoy!

[LarryG]

quote:Originally posted by WoodPirate

That "smooth-start" feature is what they say.

Is this different from the "soft-start" virtually all manufacturers use on their variable-speed routers?

A single-speed router will, as you say, jump pretty hard due to the start-up torque when power is applied, because the motor goes immediately to full speed. A soft-start circuit brings the motor up to speed gradually, say over the course of three seconds or so.

Both my Makita 1101 (handheld) and P-C 7518 (table-mount) routers have soft-start, and both come up to speed slowly and smoothly, but I've never actually tried switching them on as you describe.

[LCHIEN]

quote:Originally posted by aquatic

MMmmmmm.. special tools for the job. Well, I've ALWAYS said "use the right tool for the job" I can see I'll be doing some online shopping. I was using straight bits, 1/2" and it was a little tricky, but it worked. I noticed on my round over bits there is a little bearing on the bottom--I was playing with those as well, just to see what it would do.

I'll keep in mind the speed issues--I did play with that some, I'll do more with it tonight. Since the rabbets are cut, I need to put in a groove around the bottom of the boards for the 1/4" plywood sheet (for the bottom of the drawer of course) and make sure it all fits.. then glue, clamp and screw. So far, so good, and I'm enjoying this new hobby immensely!

Two more hints:
one make sure that your plywood thickness is what you think it is, 1/4" plywood is not usually exactly 1/4 inch thick (a set of harbor Freight digital calipers for $15 with .001" resolution is perfect for this and checking cut depth etc.)

two, you might go to www.mlcswoodworking.com and click on router bits
and view their page of bit profiles and links http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...routerbit.html
to the many bit types they have - you can learn a whole lot about what's available by looking at this page.

[WoodPirate]

Larry's right. I meant "soft start". Doh !!!

It was just amazing to go up to the PC from the Ryobi router.