Reasonable first set of Router Bits?

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  • Jim Boyd
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2002
    • 1766
    • Montgomery, Texas, USA.
    • Delta Unisaw

    #31
    95% of my bits are mlcs and I have no complaints. I started with the 15 piece set, then the plywood set and then a couple of rail and stile bits. Then I made a nice Normish router table and ended up with a lot of drawers made specially for router bit storage. So I sprung for the 66 bit set and the moulding set. Then I got an Incra fence and ordered a Incra set from mlcs. Now I have a Leigh jig and need to get the Leigh set. I figure I'll still have a couple dozen empty storage spots left to fill the drawers. In my opinion you can't have enough router bits Dosen't matter if I use any of them as long as my drawers are full[)]
    Jim in Texas and Sicko Ryobi Cult Member ©

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    • lcm1947
      Veteran Member
      • Sep 2004
      • 1490
      • Austin, Texas
      • BT 3100-1

      #32
      Jim Boyd you mentioned a set for plywood. Are bits for plywood different then others? I have regular bits as far as I know and haven't heard of special bits for plywood. Could you explain what these are and do they have a "Plywood set" from MLCS or anybody for that matter?
      May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, Mac

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      • LCHIEN
        Super Moderator
        • Dec 2002
        • 22039
        • Katy, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 vintage 1999

        #33
        quote:Originally posted by lcm1947

        Jim Boyd you mentioned a set for plywood. Are bits for plywood different then others? I have regular bits as far as I know and haven't heard of special bits for plywood. Could you explain what these are and do they have a "Plywood set" from MLCS or anybody for that matter?
        Plywood bits cut no differently from others.
        They are sized for plywood which is undersized from nominal measurement.
        So a 1/2" plywood bit is to cut a dado to accept 1/2" plywood which is going to be 15/32".

        and a 3/4" plywood bit will be actual 23/32" dia. to cut a slot for nominal 3/4" plywood.

        P.S. As LarryG points out a couple of messages down,
        not all plywood will be exactly at these sizes (1/32 less than nominal) so using these bits will not guarantee a perfect dado-plywood match.

        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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        • Jim Boyd
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2002
          • 1766
          • Montgomery, Texas, USA.
          • Delta Unisaw

          #34
          quote:Originally posted by lcm1947

          Jim Boyd you mentioned a set for plywood. Are bits for plywood different then others? I have regular bits as far as I know and haven't heard of special bits for plywood. Could you explain what these are and do they have a "Plywood set" from MLCS or anybody for that matter?
          What loring said. Here is the set I was refering to.
          Jim in Texas and Sicko Ryobi Cult Member ©

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          • LarryG
            The Full Monte
            • May 2004
            • 6693
            • Off The Back
            • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

            #35
            One thing to keep in mind, though, is that not all undersized plywood is undersized equally. That's why I generally think a dado set is a better investment than undersized-ply router bits, since the dado stack can be adjusted but the router bits cannot. If the bit cuts the size groove you need, great. But if it doesn't ...

            Now, the Holbren bits being discussed elsewhere are so inexpensive that they're a total no-brainer; I think I'm going to order a set myself, even though I have a dado set and cut most of my dados on the TS. The MLCS set Jim references are only a little more costly, and still much cheaper than a dado set. The point is, don't assume that every sheet of so-called 3/4" ply you buy will measure out to 23/32". Check each and every sheet; otherwise, you may get an unpleasant surprise.

            BTW, on the mortising question, Tony is correct that a mortising bit works a little better. All my "better" straight bits have end cutters and cut flat bottoms, but I forgot that not all straight bits are so made. (And as noted, an ordinary straight bit will work, if that's all you have.)
            Larry

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            • lcm1947
              Veteran Member
              • Sep 2004
              • 1490
              • Austin, Texas
              • BT 3100-1

              #36
              I never thought about that and would surely have screwed my first project up not knowing it. It sure pays to hang around this site and ask questions. Thanks for clearing that up for me LCHIEN and thanks Jim for the reference to the site showing the plywood bits. I'll be buying that set. Thanks ever so much again. Oh, Ok it just sank in what you were trying to get across LarryG. A little slow sometimes. Thanks.
              May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, Mac

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              • kevarc
                Forum Newbie
                • May 2004
                • 49
                • Lafayette, LA, USA.

                #37
                Like Tony, I bought bits from Infinity and am very happy with them. They are my first choice when I need a bit (I have dups - mostly Freud). The Freud bits I like also, but think they are a bit overpriceed, but I can get them local and that is nice when I need a bit NOW!
                Kevin Arceneaux
                Lone Wolf Activities for the MS Train Simulator can be found in the forums at
                www.3dtrains.com

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                • mr.g
                  Forum Newbie
                  • Jul 2004
                  • 66
                  • Richfield, MN, USA.

                  #38
                  I'm surprised no one has mentioned this http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00045.asp
                  article yet. It's from Fine Woodworking magazine about a router bit test that was done a few years ago. Some of the information is now out of date (Oldham/Viper is now owned by Porter-Cable/Delta/DeWalt/Black&Decker and manufactures the new Porter-Cable bits that are for sale at Home Depot), but it provides a good overview (in my opinion) on what router bit companies offer a quality product. I've got router bits from Viper, Freud, Bosch, and Companion (a very cheap 6 piece set from Sears). The Viper and Freud bits definitely cut the cleanest and quietest in my opinion.

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                  • LCHIEN
                    Super Moderator
                    • Dec 2002
                    • 22039
                    • Katy, TX, USA.
                    • BT3000 vintage 1999

                    #39
                    quote:Originally posted by mr.g

                    I'm surprised no one has mentioned this http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00045.asp
                    article yet. It's from Fine Woodworking magazine about a router bit test that was done a few years ago. Some of the information is now out of date (Oldham/Viper is now owned by Porter-Cable/Delta/DeWalt/Black&Decker and manufactures the new Porter-Cable bits that are for sale at Home Depot), but it provides a good overview (in my opinion) on what router bit companies offer a quality product. I've got router bits from Viper, Freud, Bosch, and Companion (a very cheap 6 piece set from Sears). The Viper and Freud bits definitely cut the cleanest and quietest in my opinion.
                    I used to post that test all the time, I'm glad its still on the 'net.
                    The MLCS bits did fairly well, best of the lower priced bits and not far behind the expensive bits. I do like the methodology of the tests, really objective and the nice way he presented the differences in quality. Well worth reading.

                    I'll say that again: Well worth reading.
                    Loring in Katy, TX USA
                    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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