I really hope this is the last jig that I make, at least before the real project is over!
In addition to forgetting to allow for snipe when I was cutting 12 ash panels to length, I was getting severe tearout when planing some of the figured boards. So I resorted to this: a router thicknessing jig. I got the idea from the current issue of WOOD, then I remembered the Hylton-Matlack book had another design. I went for the latter, although the rails on mine are fixed and narrower. I did not want to spend any more time and money making the jig adjustable. I figured I could always modify it later if necessary.
The platform is MDF, the rails are plywood, and the sled is poplar. No particular reason for the choice of materials; I just used what was in my scrap bin (except for the MDF).
The little wedges to the left of the sled in the second pic are shims to keep warped panels from rocking and to secure the panels to the platform (I've had the BT3 for almost 4 months now and I'm still amazed by the fact that I can rip 1/32" strips with it!). I use a CMT dado-and-planer bit. The bit marks are visible but not too bad.
Thanks for looking!
In addition to forgetting to allow for snipe when I was cutting 12 ash panels to length, I was getting severe tearout when planing some of the figured boards. So I resorted to this: a router thicknessing jig. I got the idea from the current issue of WOOD, then I remembered the Hylton-Matlack book had another design. I went for the latter, although the rails on mine are fixed and narrower. I did not want to spend any more time and money making the jig adjustable. I figured I could always modify it later if necessary.
The platform is MDF, the rails are plywood, and the sled is poplar. No particular reason for the choice of materials; I just used what was in my scrap bin (except for the MDF).
The little wedges to the left of the sled in the second pic are shims to keep warped panels from rocking and to secure the panels to the platform (I've had the BT3 for almost 4 months now and I'm still amazed by the fact that I can rip 1/32" strips with it!). I use a CMT dado-and-planer bit. The bit marks are visible but not too bad.
Thanks for looking!
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