Router thicknessing jig

[ChrisD]

I really hope this is the last jig that I make, at least before the real project is over!
In addition to forgetting to allow for snipe when I was cutting 12 ash panels to length, I was getting severe tearout when planing some of the figured boards. So I resorted to this: a router thicknessing jig. I got the idea from the current issue of WOOD, then I remembered the Hylton-Matlack book had another design. I went for the latter, although the rails on mine are fixed and narrower. I did not want to spend any more time and money making the jig adjustable. I figured I could always modify it later if necessary.
The platform is MDF, the rails are plywood, and the sled is poplar. No particular reason for the choice of materials; I just used what was in my scrap bin (except for the MDF).
The little wedges to the left of the sled in the second pic are shims to keep warped panels from rocking and to secure the panels to the platform (I've had the BT3 for almost 4 months now and I'm still amazed by the fact that I can rip 1/32" strips with it!). I use a CMT dado-and-planer bit. The bit marks are visible but not too bad.
Thanks for looking!

[RodKirby]

Looks great.

[Mainemarc]

Lookin' good Chris. Two questions:

How well does it work?

What is your project again? I know you probably posted about it earlier, but all I remember is your need to make raised panels. I'm just now paying attention.

[ChrisD]

Marc, it's tedious, but it does the job of no tear-out planing. Both the Hylton-Matlack book and WOOD recommend using a dish-carving bit, whose rounded edge makes less noticeable tracks, but I get decent results with my planer bit (I really want to avoid buying bits until I have a bigger, 1/2" router). As for usability, it really depends on how snug the sled is on the rail and on the router itself.
My project is a double pedestal desk for my son. The carcases will have F&P backs and sides. Each F&P assembly has two panels separated by a vertical muntin.

[lcm1947]

I am always impressed with the amount of jigs people come up with and this one is way over my head but it's still interesting. Thanks for showing it. I'll store that idea for down the road.

[axio]

Chris, this is a pretty cool jig. Do the results appear to be similar to if you ran it through a planer? Also, do they have the bit at HD?

[ChrisD]

Derrick, I ordered my planer bit from www.mikestools.com (http://www.mikestools.com/cmt/cmt_ro...laner_bits.asp). I'm not sure if HD carries this kind in its Porter-Cable line. Really, any large-diameter (3/4" minimum) straight bit should work. The trick is to ensure that the top edge of the tracks are true, level with each other, and parallel to the platform.

The resulting surface is a little rougher to the touch than when you run it through a planer. But like I mentioned above, the purpose of the jig is to get flat, tearout- and snipe-free surface on figured boards, and that's exactly what I get. You get machine marks in either method, so you'll have to sand and/or scrape either way.

Hope that helps!

[axio]

Thanks Chris. I was contemplating getting a surface planer and jointer, but the problem is I really don't have the room. This jig you've created seems to be a pretty good solution, and since you said with either method, you'd still need to sand/scrape anyways, it looks like I'll have this jig as an upcoming project. Thanks for coming up with a solution to my space problem!

[Mainemarc]

Just so that people can say I'm predictable, the other obvious alternative to a planer/jointer would be a couple of hand planes and a stout workbench equipped with a bench hook or some hold fasts.

Very satisfying as an upper body workout. And not only do hand planes take up minimal shop space, they enhance the decor!

[axio]

Hi Marc, that's why I'm also bidding on a hand plane on Ebay right now too! =)

[ChrisD]

Derrick,
Glad I could help. But please make no mistake. This method can and most probably will get frustrating for big projects with a lot of parts. It should not be considered as a full-time alternative to power-planing and jointing. One task that is essential to dimensioning lumber that you cannot do with this jig is producing square adjacent sides. It's good that you're considering using hand-planes as an alternative.

As for Marc's comment about his own predictability, I say keep the reminders coming! There are certainly tasks where Disstons and Stanleys are more efficient than Dewalts and Ryobis.