Raising panels on the TS

[ChrisD]

After some thought I have decided to use raised panels on my current project. The challenges are that this will be my first time to raise panels and that I will have to make do with the BT3. There are basically two approaches: (1) angle the blade or (2) angle the jig. Any advice on which way to go and why? Is one method safer than the other?

Thanks!

[Tom Hintz]

Chris,
Both methods work if the jig is built properly to eliminate wobble or movement of the blank while it is being cut. That is the critical issue for both safety and quality of cut.
I personally think it is easier to build a good jig for use with a tilted blade because all of the angles at the fence are simpler which makes it easier to get a good fit there.
I have some photos of one I built and used for quite a while at the link below.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/pnlrasjig.html

[Popeye]

Chris, my personal preference is the angled fence. I just like a cove cut panel better than a flat one.
The cove cut is alot slower because of the number of passes required to complete the panel.
You can't see the blade during the cut which requires you to really pay attention especially at the end of the cut.
Both require alot of sanding, probaby the coves more than the flat panel.
I think in truth if I had a "Mondo" BA router I'd get panel raising bits just for the time savings. But since I don't as of yet I'll stay with the angled fence. Good luck, play safe........ Pat

[ChrisD]

Thanks, guys!

Pat, I have been thinking of upgrading my router specifically for this application, but that would mean upgrading the router table as well. I really want to focus on my current project, but it will definitely be my next one.

Tom, great article. I especially like that you addressed the issue of fitting the bevel into the frame grooves.

I think I will go for the tilted-blade method. I'm sold on the argument that it's easier to build a square jig and that complex angles are best left to an accurate machine.

I'll keep you posted on what I come up with. Thanks again!

[ChrisD]

Well, here it is. I tested it and it works. I can't wait to do the real thing. I'll probably have to add a couple of buttresses later to make it more rigid, but for now it's pretty solid. Thanks again for the tips!

[Mainemarc]

Very simple, very elegant, Chris. I like it. Give us another shot when you add the cross-support, ok?

Top 10 Tips from the Rod Kirby school of jig-making:

10) Contour grip for individual fingers, natch.
9) 1/8" Roundover bit + trim router = fastidiously relieved edges.
8) Professionally light shop for photo shoot (including all visible areas of shop in background).
7) Jig post should ideally be preceded with post featuring jig used to make jig.
6) Compulsively clean shop prior to photo shoot to illustrate operating-room level of cleanliness.
5) Text and illustrations should feature over-engineered, ridiculously-priced, gloat-worthy tool available only in Oz.
4) Wood dust? I don't see no stinkin' wood dust!
3) Finish with 16+ coats of clear satin poly, sanded to 600 grit between coats. Waxing is optional.
2) Un-employed ISO 9000 QC inspectors are often willing to live in workshop, and will work for beer and pizza.
1) Two words, my friend: "Baltic Birch".

Seriously though, a nice thing about Chris's jig design (requiring the blade, rather than the jig to be angled) is that with just a little modification, it can also also be used to cut tenons.

Dedicated jigs that do one thing really well are nice, but boy, do they take a lot of room in the shop!

[ChrisD]

Nice list, Marc, and thanks for the kind words! I will post an updated pic.

I don't know when/if I will ever graduate from Rod Kirby U, but maybe I can earn additional credits if I start using this?

http://www.basf.com/specialty_colora...lrantsmdf.html

[JimD]

Chris,

I like your jig and if it works well for you don't change a thing. I have had good luck, however, with using a tall fence for the left side of the rip fence. It is made of melamine particle board. The disadvantage of my approach versus your jig is that you have to be careful to hold the wood up against the fence as you make the cut. I presume you will clamp the piece to be raised to your jig and then pass the whole thing past the blade.

Finally, I will offer a tip. You should plan to do the end grain first. That way if it tears out a little you may remove that area when you go with the grain. At least that is my normal practise.

Good luck and nice job.

Jim

[ChrisD]

Hi Jim,

Yes, I am going to clamp the workpiece to the jig and run the whole thing past the blade. I also plan on cutting end-grain first to minimize tearout.

Thanks for the advice!

[jethro]

Chris, Sawduster, who used to post here, has an alternative method to raise panels on the table saw using a cove. His method is here: http://home.austin.rr.com/sawduster/...isedpanels.HTM

Nice jig, BTW.

[JR]

Chris,

That's a great jig. The handle is very cool, and I expect it will be a great benefit in the heat of battle.

I also like the height. It will definitely help with taller panels.

I have a similar, and much less elegant, jig. I built it for making tenons, but have successfully raised panels with it. The dual use, as mentioned above, does save shop space and time required to make more jigs.

Well done!
JR

[Jim-Iowa]

quote:Originally posted by jethro

Chris, Sawduster, who used to post here, has an alternative method to raise panels on the table saw using a cove. His method is here: http://home.austin.rr.com/sawduster/...isedpanels.HTM

Nice jig, BTW.

Great Link Jethro. Those coves really look nice!

[ChrisD]

Thanks, JR. The design is based essentially on Tom's article. He was right about the 22-degree angle for the handle! It felt very natural in use.

Jeff, it’s the same technique that Pat was talking about up thread. Thanks for the link. It’s nice to see how it actually works.

Stay tuned for another newbie post I realized that there is no way I can thickness the panels without some very serious planer snipe or long hours with the belt sander and ROS. I forgot to allow for snipe when I cut the panels to length. I tried the ‘nickel’ technique to align the planer in- and out-feed platforms but still got inconsistent results (I have an AP1300). So I’m building a router thicknessing jig.

Just when I thought I could finally make some real progress...