Shark Guard Help

[lcm1947]

Well I was this close to buying this system but then got confused about a couple of things so thought I'd ask you that have this rig. First, if it is so important to have anti-kickback pawls why doesn't this system have any and what then keeps a kickback from happening? Second, wouldn't the dust collection hose that's connected to the top of the blade guard hinder the blade guard from raising up under wood? Anyway those are two things bothering me about this rig and thought I'd ask those that know. Appreciate any comments. I did a search for shark guard but it's rather overwelming to try to read through all of them so sorry for asking a question that I know has been discussed to death.

[DUD]

In the general opinion around here the anti kickback pawls just generally get in the way. The splitter keeps the wood from closing on the blade and so you have less tendency for a kickback.

Most people before the shark would remove the whole thing and have no protection at all. The Shark from Lee is an amazing device, with the vacuum atachment on top, there is really no difference in the use of your saw.

Hope this helps, Bill

[smc331]

The mount for the Shark Guard (that clamps to the riving knife) prevents the wood from "arcing" up (the first step of a kickback). If you have the SG properly set - just above the workpiece - this works quite well.

The DC hose has caused no problems for me so far - just have to make sure it's out of the path of the lumber coming past the blade/riving knife. It doesn't add enough "weight" to cause any problems.

HTH - maybe others will chime in w/their experiences...

[final_t]

Lee's site has good bit of info:
http://www.leestyron.com/faqryobi.php

However, my take:

The "big dog clamp" is what keeps the kickback from happening. This is because kickback comes from the stern side of the blade - the wood is lifted off the table at this point. The square mounting clamp keeps this from lifting up and towards you. The prawls on factory guards act as a ratcheting mechanism to prevent the wood from being thrown (or pulled by you) forwards. The prawls also leave nasty marks as they drag over the wood. (I put rubber tubing around mine, some dip in plasta-koat).

The hose connection at the top requires some way for you to keep the hose clear of the table, hanging straight down - and yes, you're right, it *will* twist the guard out of place if you just let it hang. If you look at all the units out there with guard-based hoses, they all have some sort of long arm countbalanced setup - you can also get the same using a flex lamp from Office Dept. I used to have mine bungie-corded to the ceiling, but I've been happier with just plugging the hole with a cap and using a ZCTP.

My two cents.

[lcm1947]

Thanks gentlemen I appreciate your time and help. So what you helped me do is eliminate the kickback concern with the Shark but that hose connecting to the guard still has me wondering. I understand what would be required now but can't for the life of me figure out what type of apparatus I could come up with that I could live with. So I'll just have to think about it for awhile. Anyway, thanks again. And Final t thanks for the site. I actually had already been there and read everything but sure missed that particular heading tab. Thanks.

[vinht]

Here's my setup, http://vinht.home.comcast.net/theshark.html. Works great for me.

Vinh

[RodKirby]

Or you can choose NOT to use it.

http://www.bt3central.com/forum/topi...s=,Shark,guard

[Stytooner]

Thanks Guys. Lee, remember this thread?
http://www.bt3central.com/forum/topi...TOPIC_ID=14022
It deals with the wisdom of doing without the pawls on a shark.

I would estimate that about 50% of shark users don't use the dust hookup. I like to use this part myself. It sucks up aluminum shavings, plastic bits and even sawdust on my saw.
I now have a 10' loop of the nice 2 1/2" flex hose from Rockler hanging over my saw. I simply use bunghy cords to hold it. This takes most of the weight off the guard. The shark feeds easily even with a little weight on top. The hose also works for my router fence. I even unloop it to suck up the sawdust below my router table.
There are a lot of ways that the hose can be dealt with. Check out some of the ideas in these photo's.
http://www.leestyron.com/gallery.php
If you haven't looked through the reviews page yet, http://www.leestyron.com/reviews.php , there are some nice ideas for hose support there as well.
Several guys are working on other designs for support and I will add those to my site or here as I get news of them. Ideas are always welcome in my inbox.

[lcm1947]

Thanks ever so much guys. I appreciate all the site references and pictures. This helped a lot. I guess I'll be able figure out a way to hang the hose once I actually have the Shark. At least now thanks to you guys I have all these ideas to take into consideration. As far as the anti-kickback worry I suppose the shark is as safe as the original setup that have the pawls but without the problem of them. Now what color? [)] Thanks again and Lee where did you find that old post. That is exactly the one I was trying to find just couldn't find it on my search.

[germdoc]

Many of us have experienced kickback even with the dreaded pawls in place, so they're no panacea.

Right now I'm plugging my top port with a makeshift tupperware lid. Anyone have a suggestion for a more visually appealing cap for the top port?

[tmaceroli]

Hi Everyone,

I've been away for a while. Had a pretty extensive home remodeling project being done (not by me!) and my shop was pretty much inoperable. This happened shortly after I purchased my BT3100, so I haven't really had too much chance to use it except for the past couple of weeks. I didn't like the pawls on the stock finger protector, so I pulled it all apart. What you wind up with is a riving knife very similar to the one pictured in Rod Kirby's post, no? What am I missing?

Good to be back!

Tony

[RickLab]

quote:Originally posted by tmaceroli

I didn't like the pawls on the stock finger protector, so I pulled it all apart. What you wind up with is a riving knife very similar to the one pictured in Rod Kirby's post, no? What am I missing?

This depends on how far you "Pulled it apart" If all you have left is the riving knife, you're correct - they are pretty much the same. Now to be even safer you need something on top of it to keep the wood from lifting and catching the rear saw blade teeth and launching towards your body. This is where Lee's "Big Dog" clamp comes into play.

Of course the rest of the Shark Guard pulls it all together and gives you safety and dust removal as well.

[Stytooner]

quote:Originally posted by germdoc

Anyone have a suggestion for a more visually appealing cap for the top port?

You can actually color match the caps if you want to. I looked in my shop the other day after doing a lot of research. I had ordered some caps that didn't fit right too. Then I looked at some spray paint caps. Liquid wrench and silicon spray as well as carb and choke cleaner and brake cleaner caps all fit the larger style dust ports pefectly. Cut them down a little like Rod did and there you have it. They look like they grew there.

[KenBurris]

quote:Originally posted by tmaceroli
What you wind up with is a riving knife very similar to the one pictured in Rod Kirby's post, no? What am I missing?

Tony, you might be missing that Rod's riving knife is cut down, so that it "crouches" behind the blade. The stock knife extends above the blade.