When to use router table or when to use...

[68KANE]

straight edge. That is my first question fellas. I'm trying to use a Roman Ogee bit to put an edge on an end table I'm building and I don't want to screw it up. Should you use a table mounted router anytime you can or what?

Second question. My router (Ryobi 3 Base kit) isn't variable speed and I'm thinking about buying an after market variable speed adjuster from Rockler/Harbor Freight. Any suggestions or words of wisdom? I know I should just buy another router (Hitachi Combo?) so it won't be an issue but I'm cheap. Thanks

[LarryG]

My policy is to use the table whenever practical. It's defining that word "practical" that's the problem.

If the workpiece is so large that it's more awkward to move it and keep it under control, than to leave the workpiece stationary and move and control the tool ... I move the tool.

Depending where the division line lies is a personal matter, so it's hard to be more specific than that.

One cast-iron exception to the above would be bits larger than about 1-1/2" in diameter. Bits this size or larger should ALWAYS be run in a table, no matter how big the workpiece is.

[68KANE]

Thanks Larry. I'm still wet behind the ear on alot of this stuff.

[bmyers]

You might want to take a closer look at that router also. I have a 3 base ryobi router and it is variable speed. Perhaps I have a different one though.

Bill

[68KANE]

Man, you might be right. **slaps self in forehead**

[LCHIEN]

I call that the moving wood or moving cutter question.
as usual, if the workpiece is small, move it, if the workpiece is big, move the cutter.

The HF speed control will probsbly do OK with a router like that.

[hines]

The Ryobi goes as low as 15,000 RPM. If you were wanting to to go slower for larger bits you wouldn't be able to use a speed adjuster since those won't work on soft start routers like the ryobi.

[68KANE]

Thanks guys. That router is a v/s and the 15k setting is working out great on the oak. Still trying to deal with the end grain tearout (minimum but still annoying). I've tried using a sacrificial peace but still getting a little on the crosscut routed trailing edge.

[Brian G]

Are you routing the end grain first, and then finishing with the edge grain? Using that approach allows you to clean up the chip out.

Another tip is to take small "bites" in multiple passes to minimize chipping on the end grain.

[68KANE]

I can't remember the order I did them in but I'll give that a try. Do you still use a sacrifice piece with that technique?

[JimD]

The other thing you can try is to go against the direction of rotation for a short distance at the corner. This is called "climb-cutting" and it not a good thing to do very often. The router tends to run away from you and multiple bad things can happen. It is an effective way to deal with end grain tear-out, however. If you think you want to try it, do so on a piece of scrap first. Cutting the end grain first is a better thing to try first (going in the normal direction). I would only climb cut if I still was getting tearout. Taking a smaller "bite" also helps with oak but I typically only do that on the router table. You could probably do it with a hand-held router if you set up a straight edge to guide the router (rather than useing the bearing on the bit).

Jim