Uses Oak plywood....

[68KANE]

I just picked up 4 pieces of Oak plywood at HD from their 'cull' lumber bin and wanted to get some feedback on what some of you guys have used this for. The pieces are in great shape 4' x 2' x 3/4" and I envisioned using them to make some end tables for my t.v. room. Nothing real elaborate but better than the particle board specials.

Is it okay to use this as a surface for the table or should I keep these for a shelf project? Also, what are some tips for finishing plywood if you can use it for the surface of a table? I know I need some oak trim pieces for the edges but are there any gotchas out there when I go to put a finish on it?

Thanks.

[Pappy]

No reason not to use the plywood for the top of a table. Most of the commercially produced furniture is plywood.

The only cautions I would give you deal with the thickness of the veneer. Be careful sanding, especially ner the edges, so you don't sand thru into the plys underneath. Also, if you are going to use stain, the plywood and the trim stock won't take stain the same way. One or the other may take a second coat of stain to even out the color.

[68KANE]

Thanks Don. In the finished projects forum I posted a pic of my new workbench and you can see the reason I need advice on staining plywood. :P

[Ken Weaver]

What Pappy said. I raid the cull bin every time I go there. I've built all my shop cabinets from that kind of material. It make a great top especially if you edge it. I've used poplar with nice effect.

[blackburn]

A bit of advice on staining. When dealing with solid and ply together or even just variations in color between the same woods (cherry is great for this) try using a gel stain. Don't know why it works but it seems to leave everything a pretty even color to everything else.

[mater]

I used oak plywood for a similar project and put a 1/4 inch clear glass on top and it really added to the look. As Pappy said "be careful sanding it"

[dlminehart]

I believe the reason gel stains are good for mixed wood combos is that the gel holds onto the stain and keeps it lying on the surface. The usual reason for mixed woods looking different when stained is that they absorb differently. Gel is also good on woods like pine that have great density variations and hence are prone to blotchiness when stained. If you read the gel stain labels, you'll find they can even be used on fiberglass and metal; e.g., doors. Fiberglass doors get a wood look by having wood grain imprinted into them. More gel remains in the grooves than on the surface, so the grooves look darker with the additional stain.

[drumpriest]

I've built a good number of things out of plywood. I suggest that you also consider a "natural look" and don't stain it. Just use polycrylic and you should get a descent matchup.

[JimD]

I vote with Kieth - no stain works best for me! Clear finish - polycrylic would be good especially for a table top - lets the true color of the wood show.

My other comment is to remember that the "normal" oak plywood we get at HD has rotary cut veneer. That is why the grain doesn't look like a board. They peel off a thin layer of wood with the tree trunk in a lathe. That makes the most of the tree. It is possible to get plywood with a surface that looks more like boards but it costs a bunch more because there is a lot more waste. I don't mind the look of the rotary cut veneer but when using this, it is not realistic to expect it to look like oak boards - it looks like what it is, real oak but cut different from boards. I typically use oak plywood for the panel in a flat panel door type construction (where you don't necessarily expect the panel to exactly match the frame) and for interior pieces. I would use it for the outside frame of a project as long as I could make the whole piece of the plywood (except for edging).

Jim

[Ken Weaver]

I actually like the rotary grain with plywood. Several of my projects have turned out with nice effect. With care cutting the panels I've been able to do some interesting matches around the sides of the projects.

[68KANE]

Thanks for the replies guys. One more question concerning it would be whether one piece of 3/4" oak plywood is sturdy enough for a table top. I can grab 2 more pieces of this stuff for the same price and glue them together to 'beef' it up. Thanks again.

[Ken Weaver]

I would think it would depend on what kind of table it will be. One thickness should be plenty for most things around the house. If you're building a shop assembly table or a workbench, then you might want to double it up.

[68KANE]

Well, it's just going to be a coffee type table for the kids game/tv room. My only concern is that some of their friends are rowdy and may decide to sit on it.

[JeremyM]

68Kane,

3/4" ply is some tough stuff. But if you want it together, run a 1-1/2" strip of hardwood around the edge. It will help you finish off the edge of the ply, but will strength it up like crazy. As an example, 3/4" ply shelves, if you band it this way, the strength triples, and if you run a dado and fit it, it quadruples, or something on those factors!

Btw, I just finished a 4' octagonal dining table. What did I make it with you ask? 3/4" ply.

I'll have pics in the next day or two. Remind me and I'll share.

Jeremy

[Woodchuck_Buck]

quote:Originally posted by 68KANE

Well, it's just going to be a coffee type table for the kids game/tv room. My only concern is that some of their friends are rowdy and may decide to sit on it.

I find that a cattle prod does wonders to prevent such things from recurring too terribly much!