What do you measure with?

[lago]

I think this may have been posted before but I can't find the thread.

I have an 18" metal ruler that I use for small cuts but what is recommended for longer cuts. I have 2 folding rulers and there is a small discrepancy between the two plus it is sometimes hard to find the mark expecially on a joint. I also have a 60" metal ruler/straight edge but it now has some dings on the end and may be off a bit. Metal tapes also have a built-in discrepancy with the tab. I have yet to find one where it is not loose at the rivet. So what do you use when you are working in the 24" to 60" range?

Ken

[LarryG]

I use my 16' FastCap steel tape for everything, excepting when I'm laying out things like mortises where a dimensional discrepancy doesn't matter as long as the tenons fit. For this small stuff, I use a 6" machinist's scale.

The loose tab on a steel tape is not a flaw, but a necessity ... it allows the tape's printed marks to compensate for the thickness of the tab when you're taking an inside measurement. You should still carefully check that first inch, though, to make sure the tab is moving the correct amount.

[RodKirby]

quote:Originally posted by lago

So what do you use when you are working in the 24" to 60" range?

For the benefit of my poor US friends From the top (approx)... Anything over this I use a tape.
39"
24"
12"
6"

[Otter]

quote:Originally posted by RodKirby

quote:Originally posted by lago

So what do you use when you are working in the 24" to 60" range?

For the benefit of my poor US friends From the top (approx)... Anything over this I use a tape.
39"
24"
12"
6"

Dang thems some funny numbers[8D]

Rod where did you score that depth guage, that is sweet.

I have been thinking of converting my shop to metric, easier to work with.

[LCHIEN]

That loose tab on the end of retracting tape measures is by design!

When you use it to hook to an outside edge the tab it moves outwards,
when you use it to measure with the tab pushed against an inside surface, it moves in,
both movements to compensate for the thickness of the tab in the respective measurement!

Thus you'll find by careful examination, that if you fix the position of the steel rule
so the housing it to your left ,
push the tab toward the ruler (leftwards) and the outside of the tab will be at the ZERO point of the tape scale.
Pull the tab to the right (as if hooking it on a table edge) and you will find the
left side of the tab at the same ZERO point.

Its a clever arrangement used by all tape measure manufacturers.

[Mainemarc]

Hi Lago:

That movement in the hook at the end of a tape measure is intentional. In theory the range of movement is exactly equal to the hook's thickness. It allow for both inside and outside measurements. I say "In theory" because that range of movement is imprecise, and isn't sufficently accurate for woodworking.

I do use my tape measure for longer cuts, but I don't rely on that hook. I alway measure from the 1" mark (that's the 1cm mark to you Rod). A number of experienced woodworkers put me on to that trick. Having said that however, REMEMBER that you need to add 1" on the other end, because you're not starting from the 0" mark on the tape. It's actually easy to forget that, especially on critical cuts. Do not, I repeat DO NOT ask me how I know that!

Don't fret too much about small discrepancies between your measuring tools (unless all agree except for one). The trick is to use the same one throughout a project.

HTH,

[lago]

Wow, I learn something new every day on this forum. Thanks
Ken

[Tom Hintz]

Like many, I have tried all sorts of things to improve marking accuracy and consistency. Recently I started using the Incra Rules in the various forms. The difference is remarkable.
I have a review of these rules at the link below with more on how they work.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/incrarulsrvu.html

[jasonmil]

I think there is a smug on that middle ruler Mr. Kirby. No no, it was my monitor. Sorry

Jason

[RodKirby]

Otter - Depth/height gauge came as a kit from ShopNotes.

[Pappy]

For short measurements I have a 6" Starrett rule. Then I step up to 12" and 24" rules from Woodcraft. Over that I rely on an assortment of Stanley tapes. I keep a 12' in my truck and another in my shop. In my workroom is a 25' stanley and a 100' Lufkin for construction type projects.

When I have to resort to a tape, I use the same tape for the entire project. This eliminates any descrepancies between 2 different tapes.

BTW, I keep a small 6' tape in the ditty bag that I carry at work. Unless I am in the wife's jeep, I am never without a tape measure. (Note to self...replace 25' tape and buy another 12' for the Jeep!)

[mater]

90% of the time I am using a Craftsman tape measure. I have a couple of metal straight edge rulers I use also.

[coach]

i mostly use my stanley 25'. and putty

[Mainemarc]

Rod,

In your photo of your measuring tools, it looks like your digital calipers are positioned almost 1/2 degree out of parallel to your rulers. You've got a reputation to maintain!

[jstevens]

quote:Originally posted by Otter

I have been thinking of converting my shop to metric, easier to work with.

Same here. Before I got back into woodworking last year, I spent a dozen years riding and racing bikes. All bike equipment is metric, so I already own a full set of metric wrenches (allen, box-crescent, socket). I wanna pull the trigger on a nice set of Starrett squares and rules, but I haven't done it because I wanna go metric in my shop, but there's so much around that is still in "English" dimensions, like router bits, dado blades, fasteners, taps, dies, etc. All the more reason to keep measuring directly whenever possible, rather than using scales or rules. Which brings me back to the original question in this thread--I measure with a compass, calipers and pinch-sticks whenever possible.

Regards,

John