What's your favorite screw?

[ivwshane]

I was watching a video on building cabinet carcasses and the guy in the video said he now only uses screws and in particular he only uses grk stainless steel self countersinking screws. He screwed the panels together after using a pin nailer to get then positioned right and then showed how strong the hold was.

It looked too easy and way better than having to manually countersink everything so I bought a 100 pack.

Let me just say that these are awesome! No more stripping of screws, they go in super easy and are clean and hold really well.

http://www.grkfasteners.com/index.ph.../r4/pheinox-r4

Definitely not the cheapest screw to use but worth it for an amature like me. I've already used 300 and I just bought a 600 pack from this site which is the cheapest I've found them (100 pack = <$15, 627 = $75). I use the #9x2" size.
http://www.architecturaldepot.com/gr...r4-screws.html


Obviously the best screw depends on the application but I really like the tech involved with this screw, torx head, self tapping, self countersinking.


So what's your favorite screw/fastener?

[cwsmith]

I don't like to use nails or brads of anykind. I'm actually growing more and more away from metal fasteners where I can avoid them.

I do try to keep some variety of smaller screws, mostly purchased from Lee-Valley. Good for hinges, etc. But about two or three years ago my local HD started carrying Spax screws and I've really come to love them for any serious holding power. I keep four different sizes in the shop inventory. They too are self-tapping, lubricated, and the particular variety that I like have T20 heads. (Torx)

Edit: Forgot to mention price, which is about $8 a box. Quantity varies depending on length. Typical count is around 100 pcs.

CWS

[LCHIEN]

looked at some of these GRK R4 #8 x 1-1/2 at arch depot 100 are $10 plus 8 shipping.
Amazon is cheaper at $12.36 plus free 2-day shipping if you are a prime member.

[cabinetman]

The type of fastener depends on the materials and project. If it's a project that needs a screw into a ¾" substrate, I find a #8 or larger is on the big side. I like a coarse thread screw, flat head phillips. Grabber has a good selection.

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[Cochese]

Star/torx Spax, for everything I need them for. I mitigate the pain of countersinking using Rockler's drive system.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[chopnhack]

Great title for the thread

I saw these and have wondered about using them - at $3.81/100 for a #8 x 2" not a bad risk :-)

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...f=wd200&page=3



http://www.woodstore.net/chriscfortoj.html

[ivwshane]

Great title for the thread

I saw these and have wondered about using them - at $3.81/100 for a #8 x 2" not a bad risk :-)

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...f=wd200&page=3



http://www.woodstore.net/chriscfortoj.html

Those look like the GRK I use, I'll have to give these a try, they are a lot cheaper.


I was at HD today and I picked up a box of spax to try out. They weren't bad but not as good as the GRK. It split the test piece. Not bad for the price though.

[LCHIEN]

Those look like the GRK I use, I'll have to give these a try, they are a lot cheaper.


I was at HD today and I picked up a box of spax to try out. They weren't bad but not as good as the GRK. It split the test piece. Not bad for the price though.

much cheaper because they are not stainless steel like the GRK Pheinox R4, if that's important to you. The GRK R4 (not Pheinox) are carbon steel with an all-weather (presumable anti-rust) coating.

In general, regardless of manufacturer, SS screws will be 10-15 dollars per hundred, steel screws with various coatings will be 3-5 dollars per hundred. Price of course depends on size.

If you don't need Stainless steel, then you can save a whole lot of money - 7 to 10 cents per screw. And you don't need SS unless you're building a dock or boat subject to continuous salt water spray, or redwood (which has chemicals that attack steel).

McFeeley's suggests:
Stainless Steel was developed about 90 years ago to solve the rusting problems of standard grades of steel. It is best used where the eventual corrosion of plated products would create a real problem — salt-water boats or docks (above water), and redwood siding quickly come to mind.

here's a comparison of screw materials and their relative properties. I imagine the GRK Carbon steel screws that are pictured at their website as gold or yellow are probably coated with something like yellow zinc to improve anti-rust properties :
http://www.mcfeelys.com/tech/materials.htm

[ivwshane]

Thanks!

To be honest I really didn't know what the differences are between the type or the different coatings so I just errored on the whatever is more expensive and known to work

[cabinetman]

Stainless steel fasteners don't work with magnetic drive bits...if that matters.

.

[LCHIEN]

Thanks!

To be honest I really didn't know what the differences are between the type or the different coatings so I just errored on the whatever is more expensive and known to work

For general use the yellow zinc (I presume or maybe chromate) coated GRK will give you all the advantages you like and be suitable for around the house use. Even outdoors if you don't mind some discoloration. The only time I'd switch to SS would be to avoid any rust stains and streaks, avoid any costly failures (like decks of redwood), or just because you like the shiny look and want to keep it that way.

[Bruce Cohen]

Loring,
Somehow I didn't think you were really referring to a mechanical fastening device.

Bruce

[Skaning]

I've been using square drive screws for probably 15 years, buying them from McFeelys well before Graingers bought the business. Generally I've not needed stainless unless I was working with treated lumber. These GRK styles look interesting.

[Richard in Smithville]

I learned at an early age about what can happen when you don't drill pilot holes. I know there are screws on the market where you don't have to drill out the pilot hole but for the very small inconvenience, it's worth the peace of mind to know that I won't split the piece. I will work with Robertson screws exclusively. They're the predecessor to the square head. I really get to cursing when I have to deal with Phillips screws these days. Guess I've been spoiled.




BTW: If you have ever used a spiral nail, that was invented about 20 miles down the road from me.( Just saying)

[cabinetman]

I learned at an early age about what can happen when you don't drill pilot holes. I know there are screws on the market where you don't have to drill out the pilot hole but for the very small inconvenience, it's worth the peace of mind to know that I won't split the piece.

I'm the same way. I have a dedicated cordless set up with a combo pilot/countersink.

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