Resawing

[SSO720]

Has anyone used their saw to resaw? I want to resaw some 1" X 7" flame maple to make a bookmatched top for a guitar. I realize the possible danger involved.
My intention is to take 1" cuts on each long leg until I reach max depth, then finish the cut with a hand saw. I will then plane to the final thickness (1/4).
I know that a band saw is the better choice but I don't have access to one.
If I decide to try this what would the best blade be to use?

[dbhost]

I haven't done it, but It should be possible.... I would use a tall fence and tall feather boards to control the stock as it goes into the blade.

Since you are basically ripping, I would go with a thin kerf ripping blade. The Freud Diablo D1024X should work fine for this application. Just make certain you account for your kerfs in the cut...

To make the "meet up" cut I would probably use a Japanese style pull saw. At least for me, I have found them FAR easier to get a straight cut than with a western type push saw.

[pelligrini]

I've done it once on some Peruvian walnut, the board was not quite as wide. A tall fence helps a lot as well as featherboards. I was using my 30T WW-II. The cuts went fairly well. I had a few teeth marks from a not having a good feed rate and my tall fence wasn't as sturdy as it should have been.

If you use some tall featherboards (I stacked a couple of mine with some spacers) be sure to take them into consideration. I was using a pair of grippers to push the stock and I didn't think about them running into the featherboards.

I used my Japanese Ryoba to finish the cut, then my Stanley #7 to knock down the ridge. A couple passes through the planer and I had the thin boards I needed.

[DrChas]

I've done it. Just take it slow and do multiple passes. I would flip it over each pass so I worked my way in from both sides. Be careful to leave some in the middle and finish it with a hand saw. I suspect that kickback from resawing on a table saw would be vicious.

I must say, since I got a bandsaw and the appropriate blade, it is clear that that really is the way to go. But, if you don't have a bandsaw it does work on the BT3K

[capnjack2]

resawing

Use a piece of hardboard about 5 or 6 inches tall as your feather board. Attach it to your miter gauge or SMT fence, clamp the fence/gauge in place. The hardboard should press firmly against the workpiece just ahead of the blade. Use a push block against the tall fence. Don't forget, you can always make 1 1/2" cuts at a time, flipping the board end-for-end.

Jack

[big tim]

I have done it with 2" thick teak, the board was 9" x 20".
Did it on my BT300, using a 6" tall fence attached to the BT fence.
This was quite some time ago, can't remember the blade I used.
Worked fine, just take your time, and finish off with a handsaw.

Tim