Starter clamps?

[Mountie]

Hi to all,

I'm just looking for suggestions on what may be the best set of clamps to get when starting out woodworking...I've currently got few Bessey clamps, some "C" clamps and some Irwin pistol grip style which I have used extensively in construction...for those experienced woodworkers, what are the clamps that you use most often? What would be a good set to start off with? what sizes? I'm looking to get a few more, but between pipe clamps, corner clamps, etc, as well as the various sizes I could spend a small fortune in clamps alone!

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Rob

[eezlock]

starter clamps?

The smaller sizes of Bessy F clamps are always a good bet when buying clamps.
I also like the HF aluminum bar clamp., The one's that I have are the extendable
model that covers several different lengths...don't think HF still carries those
anymore but still has the other models in stock. HF's longer sizes of large bar camps are good
and a good value for the cost. I personally don't use the longer pipe clamps like
I thought I when I first started they are good, but just bulky and in the way
for most of my glue-ups. A couple of Irwin heavy duty corner clamps that can be
changed from inside to outside corners are really useful if you do a lot of case work
and are in- dispensible too! Making square tight fitting corners with these are the best way I know.

This is only a start for clamps...there is always a need for more and different
types and they start to mount up after a while!

[pelligrini]

Even just starting out, you'll probably be better off spending a little bit more at first of the small fortune you will be spending over time. I've got some cheap bar clamps & pipe clamps I initially purchased. They don't get used much at all, unless it's a really big glue up and then they get used as a last resort.

The ones I use most often are the Irwin quick grips, especially the small 6" ones. I think I've got a dozen and a half. They're not made for heavy duty clamping, but I find them the most useful.

For bigger things I'll reach for my Bessy K-bodies. I wish I would have bought some a long time before I finally did. I picked up some woodriver parallel clamps before I paid the extra for some besseys. I wouldn't recommend them. They worked pretty well at first, but over time half of mine have become unreliable. The little threaded studs that engage the bar have been stripping out. There's nothing more aggravating than your clamp not tightening up while you only have just a few minutes left of open time on your glue.

The sizes really depend on what type of work you will be doing. I'd recommend a pair of 12s, four 24s and a pair of 31s in a good parallel make. The longer ones are nice, but they get expensive. I don't use them all that often. I prefer to spend more on the things that will get more use. I've got an assortment of 3/4" pipe clamps and some cheaper parallel clamps for long jobs. A few assorted lengths of black pipe and some female couplers can make several pipe clamps into an array that can handle a lot of jobs.

[Richard in Smithville]

Watch the Canadian Tire flyers. They often have semi decent clamps on sale. I have a few and find I can use them for most situations.

[jussi]

I personally like the jet F clamps with the clutch handle. Very similar to their parallel clamps in operation. Which I'm also a big fan of. Here's an example at the bottom but if you do a little searching I'm sure you can get it at a better price.

http://www.amazon.com/jet-Equipment-...769119&sr=1-52


I also like the squeeze clamps for convenience and speed. Great for clamping something on a work bench, to a miter gauge, etc. I'm not sure they have enough force for glue-up. However I've heard good things about Irwin's higher end model. I think it's called the XP?

Parallels (for me) are the best for glue-up. Tons of even pressure, lots of control, and can easily lie on it's back. But they're also the most expensive. Keep an eye on sites like this for bargains. I stocked up on a bunch of 12, 24, and 50 inch Jet parallel clamps when they went on sale for a considerable discount. Also check out craigslist. I got a few Jet and Bessey parallels from there as well.

[Bill in Buena Park]

I also like the HF aluminum bar clamp., The one's that I have are the extendable
model that covers several different lengths...don't think HF still carries those
anymore but still has the other models in stock. HF's longer sizes of large bar camps are good
and a good value for the cost.

+1 on HF aluminum bar clamps - light, affordable, and effective. I've had good use out of the following models:

24": http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch...amp-38183.html

36": http://www.harborfreight.com/36-inch...amp-38184.html

48": http://www.harborfreight.com/48-inch...amp-38185.html

37" extendable: http://www.harborfreight.com/37-inch...amp-92751.html

[LCHIEN]

i find my "go-to" clamps are the 6" mini-quick grips by Irwin" which I buy when on sale at Lowes (like right now) a two pack with two free (making it a four-pack) for $19.95 which is under $5 each. OTOH, I saw them at Ace hardware today, they were $18.95 for a single! Don't buy that one!

Anyway, mybe not the srongest grip but very useable for most all applications with singlehanded application (position and apply clamping force with one hand), quickly adjustable in coarse sizing and with nicely padded rubber pads to prevent damaging your work.

I must have about 20 of them lying around the shop or hanging on the wall...

[Cochese]

For F-style clamps, Harbor Freight makes a pretty good facsimile for the short size. Stay away from their quick-grip black and orange clamps, though. The aluminum bar clamps are good until you overcrank them.

Start investing in parallel clamps.

[cabinetman]

The size and type of clamp could be suggested depending on what your projects are. If you are making small keepsake boxes, 6' pipe clamps are not really appropriate but could be made to work. I wouldn't go out and just load up on clamps, but rather let your immediate projects be your guide as to what to buy.

.

[BrazosJake]

The size and type of clamp could be suggested depending on what your projects are. If you are making small keepsake boxes, 6' pipe clamps are not really appropriate but could be made to work. I wouldn't go out and just load up on clamps, but rather let your immediate projects be your guide as to what to buy.

.

Ditto that.

If you find them at a really good price, 12 & 24" parallel jaw clamps are a safe bet and probably the most-often used for glue ups. These handle 99% of my face and edge-jointing tasks. It is tempting to buy longer ones for their capacity, but they are somewhat unwieldy and take up a lot of space at assembly time.

[LCHIEN]

Depth: an important clamp measure

The aluminum bar clamps are OK, but have a limited depth capacity - the clamping arms are only 1-1/2 inches long at most. They are OK for clamping panel glue-ups, they sit nicely on a table.

the so-called "F" clamps suffer from main bar bending when the length (say on the HF models) is over about 18". The main bar bends and the jaws become non-parallel. They don't have pads and I find the screw end pad leaves dents in the wood so it needs a scrap of wood under it. Takes a lot of hands to position and tighten, but these are the cheapest clamps when it comes to need a lot of them; frequently on sale at HF for 3 to 7 bucks depending on length. Shorter lengths are good for box making and stuff.
Also some are available with extra deep reach - up to ~five inches. Cheap models are from HF and Columbian, better ones are from Jorgenson, Bessey, Irwin. Most use a clutch for coarse positioning the moving jaw and a hand screw for fine closure. The Bessey have a sliding and tilt-locking jaw rather than a clutch plate. I use the small bessey 5" F-clamps ($6) for jig holding use.

Irwin Quick Grips one-handed clamps i mentioned previously why I like these in the 6" minis - At $20 for four I think they are a bargain. The larger size maxis in 6, 12, 24 inches are also useful but start to cost a lot more; the QG2s have a removable head and can be used for both clamping and spreading. Avoid the knock offs, they simply are way inferior.

A very useful clamp is the wooden hand screw clamp; available generally as small as 4" and up to about 12" it consists of two wood blocks about 1.5" square and the length of the measure. Two hand screws on swivels are located halfway and at the end - together they can pull or push the wood tips together in parallel or just at the tip due to the two screws - they will lie flat on the bench (or even be clamped to the bench) to hold small objects for drilling, routing, handworking etc. Useful to have one or two of these in your shop. I'd get a 6" and a 10". (openings of about 3-5" respectively).

Pipe clamps - these are ends sold at the store to be screwed on separately purchased lengths of black plumbing pipe( Cheap and readily available). So you can make up any length you need, even make extension pipes with a threaded nipple. The bad - very heavy for their size and the pipe bends readily in long lengths. The hollow pipe is not nearly as stiff as the flatter beams of the F clamps and parallel jaw clamps.

Parallel joint clamps - exemplified by the Bessey K series, also made by Jet and Jorgensen - these are very heavy clamps suitable for long lengths and the jaws are parallel at all times meaning the beam won't bend. They are suitable for large furniture and are quite costly - 25-40-50 bucks for 24" to 50" sizes. Sometimes sold in sets for 2 short and two long for $100 or so. Two heavy for any boxmaking or small items.

Spring clamps - these are steel or plastic clamps that are evolved from clothespins - two pieces with a spring loaded fulcrum they have a bigger opening and rubber tips. The clamping force can't be controlled and they are hard to position and usually only open a couple of inches.

My recommendations - Get a couple of packs of quick grip mini 6" ($40, 8 clamps at Lowes).
Get a handful of the F-clamps, say 2-12", 2-24", 2-36" wait for sale at HF
Get a handscrew clamps in 6" and 12"
Hold off on any other clamps until you need them or see them on sale if you think you will need them one day.
Forget the spring type clamps.

Having a dozen small clamps is nothing, you will often want clamps every two or three inches on a glue up.
If you make a 12" x 4" box you might have about 8-14 clamps on that - six 6" clamps on the sides and two 12" or 18" on the ends and maybe another 4-6 clamps if it has a top and bottom.

You can use bigger ones than you need, but not shorter. However, bigger clamps tend to all have the excess on one end and a few oversize clamps can make your project topple over. So judge accordingly your size selection.

[Mountie]

Thanks LCHIEN,

Thats exactly the kind of recommendation I was looking for....turns out I'm better off than I thought....I already have an assortment of the Irwins although I don't have the mini's (I'm heading to Home Depot today for those), I've got a 6" hand screw and a couple pairs of the Besseys, I'll grab some of the larger "F's" and I should be set...for now...

Any thoughts from anyone on the corner clamps, the ones "essential" for case construction? I've got a couple of simple cases I want to do using basic biscuit joinery in MDF... was wondering if these clamps would help with the glue ups....

Now if my new dado set would just arrive....

[Cochese]

I found an assembly square (like from Rockler) works well on corners.

[LCHIEN]

Thanks LCHIEN,

...Any thoughts from anyone on the corner clamps, the ones "essential" for case construction? I've got a couple of simple cases I want to do using basic biscuit joinery in MDF... was wondering if these clamps would help with the glue ups....

Now if my new dado set would just arrive....

If you buy the Bessy corner clamps they're really nice but will set you back abourt $25 per. I was fortunate in watching sales and clearances and bought about 5 of them for $10 each.

Another choice for squaring up cabinets is the corner squares ("Clamp-it") you can get from Rockler and other places for about $10 each. Use with two clamps on the inside or outside. But, I just make my own - I rip 2x4 in half for 2x2s and then rip, plane and joint then crosscut them real square. then butt joint them to make an 8" L-bracket. A couple of long screws in the end plus glue. Miter the outer corner, drill a inside radius for glue relief. Its a quick project - just have to make sure everything is square - check with a good T-square. Make four or more.
http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ssembly+square

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...=corner+square

[LarryG]

I'm in general agreement with Loring's recommendations, right down the line, save one: I do find spring clamps useful. I have some 2" plastic jobs that don't see much action -- I think I paid something like 88 cents each for them, at Big Lots -- but my steel Pony spring clamps have always gotten a lot of use.

A similar clamp I really like is from Bessey ... looks a lot like an ordinary spring clamp, but it ratchets and locks. I found them in packs of four at Lowe's for a mere 10 bucks, so I bought two packs. Not sure that deal is still available, as I bought mine maybe three years ago.

The assembly squares that CocheseUGA mentions are indeed handy, but can be expensive. Here's a less costly alternative that works just as well. (But see post #12 for a caveat.)

EDIT: I don't want anyone to be misled by comments made elsewhere in this thread. As mentioned in my original thread, one of the eight Stanley brackets I bought was way out of square. The other seven, however, were dead on. The bad one had a manufacturing defect that would have been glaringly obvious had I taken a few seconds to examine it in the store. On a subsequent trip to the same store, I spot-checked a number of other bracket sets -- the liquidator had dozens of them -- and found none that appeared out of square. So I consider the one bad one I got a fluke, an anomaly. Lastly, the steel the Stanley brackets are stamped from is fairly thick. That, combined with the radius of the bend on the two flanges, leaves a more-than-adequate relief gap for glue squeeze-out at the inside corner. This can be readily seen in the photo below, taken from the the first post of the original thread.