Cutting board (yep, I've hit that point)

[Cochese]

I'm looking into making some for Christmas presents, figure it would be a nice thing to do. Now, I have some beginnings of a plan, but I need help to fill in the gaps.

1) Grain. I was thinking going with edge grain to make things a bit easier, especially on the planer. Good idea? I don't think these boards will get a lot of use, but I really don't know.
2) Material. I was thinking of pairing up Hard Maple with Walnut. Good idea? What am I looking for at the lumber yard (this is my first real foray into hardwoods) as far as thickness goes - should I get some 5/4 and take it down from there?
3)I've heard some use walnut oil and some use mineral oil with beeswax. Advantages to either one? Walnut is apparently quicker to dry?
4) Best plan for making a production run of about 5-6 of these?

I've read through the archives on this, and there's some good info. But most things were posted with knowledge of the above already in hand. Any help would be appreciated. The sooner I start on this, the more likely I'll actually get them done and in a condition that's fit for giving. In fact, I'm headed to the lumber yard today to see what prices and availability are.

[Chris_B]

Check out this link at the "The Wood Whisperer" (aka, Marc Spagnuolo), including the comments section.

Marc is interesting and helpful, and directly addresses most of your questions:

1. End-grain is a little harder to make, but far more durable. The board will typically also be heavier (which can be good or bad).
2. Any hardwood with a close-grain structure and few open pores will work. Hard maple is just about ideal. Be careful with exotics. Most of the toxins are not well understood.
3. Walnut oil can inadvertently trigger *severe* allergic reactions. There is no 'right' finish, but Marc's general recommendation is an oil/varnish/mineral-spirits blend, since the long-term care is minimal.

Marc outlines a simple technique to create an interesting checker-board pattern, but the basic ideas can be extended to a wide variety of shapes and patterns.

Have fun!

[phrog]

What Chris said and another link:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/11372

Richard

[Chris_B]

What Chris said and another link:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/11372

Richard

Very cool! I had not seen that tool. Thanks for posting the link.

[Cochese]

That is a cool link indeed. I had seen the end result of Marc's board, but was finally able to see the vids this afternoon. Very straightforward and sounds doable.

I mentioned walnut oil, I assume those who are using it are using refined, which doesn't have any protein, similar to peanut oil. But he makes the mineral/beeswax method easy.

Purpleheart is actually cheaper than walnut here, so maple/purpleheart will do nicely.

[ironhat]

Does anyone have a different pattern for these boards, whether on the WW or not?

[Cochese]

OK, I did the first steps yesterday and now I have a nice looking slab sitting in front of me, except for one problem. I have some small gaps at one end of the piece, enough where I can see light through, about 1/2" long on them. Could be from not enough glue, could be that the aluminum clamps I used didn't have enough power/weren't close enough to the end.

Should I attempt to fix this before I plane it and move on to the next step? If so, how? Or should I continue on and hope for the best?

[Tom Slick]

Does anyone have a different pattern for these boards, whether on the WW or not?

If you made the second cut (after the first glue-up) at an angle you could make chevrons/zigzags.

[Cochese]

I ended up getting an expensive lesson in how to go about things. The first problem was that either my SMT, miter fence or my rip fence was out of square, and my cuts got screwed up. The second problem was that I apparently had an inconsistent glue between two specific pieces, and about half of the cut pieces failed along that joint anyway.

So, I'll attempt another one in a couple of weeks. I'm glad I started on this early.

[phrog]

I ended up getting an expensive lesson in how to go about things. The first problem was that either my SMT, miter fence or my rip fence was out of square, and my cuts got screwed up. The second problem was that I apparently had an inconsistent glue between two specific pieces, and about half of the cut pieces failed along that joint anyway.

So, I'll attempt another one in a couple of weeks. I'm glad I started on this early.

Sorry it didn't work out. But a lesson learned this way is a lesson never forgotten.
Richard

[pelligrini]

I'm not sure how you were applying the glue, but I really like using this roller bottle when I have to do bigger surfaces. http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2004...cator-Set.aspx

I'll normally use a cheapo acid brush. I picked up that applicator set when I built my bench and it really made the glue ups a lot easier.

[Cochese]

All I had at the time was this little plastic spreader. I'll be picking up a roller of some sort before I attempt again.

And some more clamps. I think I need to use the ones I have closer to the outside and put an additional one in the middle.

[pelligrini]

Cauls, with a slight curve in the middle can really help.

[steve-norrell]

Made a bunch of cutting boards for gifts - - most came out fine, but some had gaps.

The suggestions about glue coverage and use of cauls are right on. I found that you have to be really, I mean really, careful about making sure that the glue covers 100% of the wood surface. I didn't use cauls (too lazy to make them) but used at least four, usually more, clamps along the length of the boards.

Even then, though, I managed to get a few gaps. Hopefully, they were at the ends and could be discarded when you trim up the boards. Boards with small gaps in the center can be used for 'dry' foods such as bread, or serving boards for crackers. Alternately, the gaps and even knot holes can be filled with epoxy and sanded smooth. The LOL also uses some as center pieces, as bases for vases and other baubles.

They seem like simple little projects, but sure have lots of ways of reminding us of "Murphy's Law".

Regards, Steve

[Cochese]

Cauls, with a slight curve in the middle can really help.

I did use those on the surfaces (just like on the video). I think most of it was due to my improper gluing.