Equipping the workshop smartly

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  • Cochese
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2010
    • 1988

    Equipping the workshop smartly

    I've asked this on another forum I visit, but I thought I'd also ask here to get a wider variety of answers.

    I have a 12x12 shed that I call home. I've tried to look out for good deals and tools that will fit my space, even if I do expand a bit (I doubt more than 16x20 would be feasible at my current location). I've also tried to not cut corners on quality, and looked for tools that have gotten generally good reviews. Sometimes I've bypassed this requirement for a really good deal.

    I've gone from a couple of Ryobi 18v tools at the start of the year to the following:
    • Craftsman 17543 dual-base router (good reviews)
    • Hitachi C10FCE2 miter saw (good reviews and a good deal)
    • Craftsman 21829 table saw (good reviews and a good deal)


    I built my router table, and a couple of cheapo work tables, but I'm still in need of a few tools. A band saw, a drill press and a table planer are nowhere to be found. I bought a hand power planer on a smoking deal, but I know I need a benchtop at some point in the future. I'll need a band saw soon, but I know my budget isn't going to allow for a resawing one, unfortunately. A drill press seems to be the most logical one to go for next.

    Now, I'm aware of checking Craigslist, etc for deals, but I'm looking for opinions on new ones at the moment. CL seems to be haunted by a few snipers, snatching up deals seemingly before they make it to the site.

    So, for the drill press - I guess right now I'm looking at several of the HF models, plus the Ryobi DP121L (the variable speed control seems like it's worth the $50 over the DP102L) and possibly the Craftsman with the digital depth control. I'm fine with a benchtop, I plan to make/use a rolling stand to best use space in the shop. I know that using a mortising attachment isn't preferred, but I'd like the option. That's most likely the most use I'll get out of the drill press. That and of course making 90 degree holes. I'll most likely make my own table for it too.

    For the band saw - am I really just looking for anything at this point? Like I said, I know my budget isn't going to allow for resawing. But I will need something for making the cuts to where a bandsaw would best be used. Should I just get the cheapest thing there is, knowing that in a few years I'll be going big?

    Planer - this is the thing I want most, but I will probably pick up last. Depends on if my morris chair project will call for it. Are the consensus picks the R4330 or DW734?

    I'm continuously scouring Craigslist, so if there are any older models of any of these I should specifically look for, please let me know. I'm already keeping my eyes out for a AP1300 (one sold within four hours last week), or a DW733.

    I'm a weekend guy, and buying wood eats up a decent portion of my budget. That should tell you about what I'm looking to spend. Under $200 for the DP and BS, under $400 for the planer would be nice.

    Thanks.
    I have a little blog about my shop
  • sweensdv
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2002
    • 2862
    • WI
    • Baileigh TS-1040P-50

    #2
    I'm not going to try and answer all your questions but I'll chime in on the planer. The two you mentioned are very good choices and I'm sure you'd be happy with either one.

    On the other hand, considering your limited space, you might want to take a look at a reconditioned DeWalt DW735. This planer has an on-board exhaust blower for chip ejection. Combine this feature with the DeWalt DW735 Chip Collection Accessory and a trash can and your shop cleanup will be greatly reduced. Just a thought.
    _________________________
    "Have a Great Day, unless you've made other plans"

    Comment

    • Uncle Cracker
      The Full Monte
      • May 2007
      • 7091
      • Sunshine State
      • BT3000

      #3
      Planer: Make sure you get one with a cutterhead lock. Good infeed/outfeed support is a plus, also. Perhaps with your limited space, a Rousseau rolling table with folding in/out tables would be a good investment.

      Drill Press: Go for solid construction, not digital gimmicks (that Craftsman has a digital depth readout - it's not a depth control, and it's not particularly accurate). I'd also avoid HF on tools like this; the general rule is that you might have to go through 3 of them just to find one that will even assemble properly.

      General: Don't give up on CL... Just watch it closely, and have the truck warmed up and cash in hand. Bottom line is that today's economy has forced a lot of guys to turn their tools into cash, and there are good deals to be had. A new tool is only new until you use it for the first time, so why pay a premium? Just keep your eyes open, and have a bit of patience, and you'll find the deal you want.

      Comment

      • LCHIEN
        Internet Fact Checker
        • Dec 2002
        • 20989
        • Katy, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 vintage 1999

        #4
        Drill press is an essential tool to me.
        Main things: get the most you can for the money, you need:
        HP 1/4 to 1/2, the mroe the better for not stalling your drill with bigger bits.
        Speeds 5 min 10-15 good should cover the range of 300 to 2000 RPM
        Swing 10-12 min, 14 or 15" is good 16-17 is nice. With a swing of 12 inches you can drill 6 inches into a flat piece with the edge of the piece against the column.
        Spindle/quill travel 2" is hardly acceptable, 3"+ is good, 4" is nice.
        Table travel - clearly a foor standing is better, but there are some good bench models if space is limited. With a floor mode you can lower the tale way down and drill in the end of a long or tall piece.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment

        • LCHIEN
          Internet Fact Checker
          • Dec 2002
          • 20989
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #5
          there are some nice 9 and 10" bandsaws that will do most bandsaw stuff nicely except those big resaws. Does 2 of the three things a bandsaw is good at. Waiting for a bargain on a Craigslist 14" bandsaw might be worth the wait... so you can do all three (curves, resaws and notches/stopped small cuts).

          Thickness planer - I think a cutterhead lock is a must have feature, as someone mentioned before.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

          Comment

          • Cochese
            Veteran Member
            • Jun 2010
            • 1988

            #6
            When it rains, it pours apparently. Have a line on a planer and a bandsaw, but as I believe (anyway) that the BS is of least importance to me right now, I will probably be holding off on that purchase.

            The planer, I think, is a Wilton 99178. From what I understand, it's a Grizzly G0505 for the most part. I don't think it has a cutterhead lock, but if the price is right I may purchase it anyway. If not, the ones mentioned are still on the wish list. But I think it would be next year to purchase those if I don't obtain this one.

            I guess I need a little bit of an education on the bandsaw. I know 9 and 10" ones won't resaw, but am unclear as to when that starts being an option and what kind of blades you're looking at to do so. Outside of resawing, I'll need to make some more intricate cuts for the morris chair.

            Finally, the drill press. I am keeping the HF ones in mind because I've seen rather glowing reviews (comparatively) for these. I'm not really looking at the DP121L anymore, somewhat due to early reviews about quality and Home Depot's asinine policy of pricing stuff higher in their stores than their website, even in their home market. It's a bit annoying.

            What I'm looking at now is if I want a floor or bench top. Because of the way I'm going to mount a benchtop, I can eliminate the disadvantage of not being able to do long pieces. So that leaves stroke and HP as the main differences, I suppose. If I get a bench top, I could put it on a stand and move it around/store it when I don't need it. But the floor models have better stroke and usually more power. Where would I put it? It's a consideration. I think I would greatly prefer a floor model, but I don't know where it would go, and how I would make it useable. Because it's certainly not going to sit out in the middle of the shed. I would almost certainly make a cabinet to go underneath, but do I really have the room?

            If I go HF, is it worth going after the 16 speed floor model, or just buying the cheapo 5 speed bench model and know I'm going to need something else in a year or two. I don't think trying to do square mortises with any of these is going to work, but I will use it for drilling out the majority before going in with the chisel and squaring it up. I think if I go HF, I'll replace their switch with a paddle-lock style from Grizzly. Dunno.

            I believe the floor model that looked nicest at the store (besides the production model) will be going on sale in August for $199. I think it's this one (it's hard to read the flyer): http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...bCategoryName=

            With a 20% off coupon and coming it at $160, it might be worth it.
            I have a little blog about my shop

            Comment

            • tommyt654
              Veteran Member
              • Nov 2008
              • 2334

              #7
              No, Don,t do it check yor pm,s now,Tommyt

              Comment

              • pelligrini
                Veteran Member
                • Apr 2007
                • 4217
                • Fort Worth, TX
                • Craftsman 21829

                #8
                I've got a lot of the same issues as you. My shop is a little 10x12 shed, but I added another 5' to the side for storage. Make sure you consider tool heights too. Especially if you have any lower walls, shelves etc. My shed has a gambrel roof starting at about a 6' plate. With 24" deep shelves on both ends with 2x6 stretchers on top of the plate tall tools on wheels don't go where the need to unless they're less than 69" tall. I've had some issues with taller tools such as my drill press, dust collector and future bandsaw.

                I ended up with a Craftsman bench drill press mounted on a mobile cart. The three drawers of storage in the cart has been nice. The limited quill travel can be problematic, but it isn't needed all the time. I would have liked a floor model, but the room and funds just weren't available.

                I still want a 14" bandsaw. I just don't know where it'll fit yet. A friend of mine is 'storing' a cheapo Delta 9" (BS100) in my shed. I get to use it and maintain it, his wife won't complain about it being in the living room anymore. It's barely OK. It is short enough to stow under a wing of my jointer. That's about the best feature. I don't enjoy using it. I find it inaccurate, underpowered and something I tire of arguing with quickly. I about pulled the trigger on a 12" Rikon that Woodcraft had on special a while back. I still think I would prefer a 14" with the ability to add a riser block.

                I have a Dewalt DW735 planer mounted on a flip-top cabinet that will roll under my workbench. I picked it up a few years ago on a decent HD special. I can't believe the price it is going for now. Like Dave mentioned, it has an onboard fan for chip collection. The dust bag works well, but it doesn't catch the fines. It's more for controlling the chips. I've been very pleased with it.

                One thing more to consider on bench type tools; are they really portable? My 735 weighing in at 92lbs (before the in/outfeed tables) was a pain to move around, especially and the end of a long day. It didn't take me very long to put my drill press on a cart either.
                Erik

                Comment

                • Cochese
                  Veteran Member
                  • Jun 2010
                  • 1988

                  #9
                  Well, I think the drill press has sorted itself out. I should be picking up a DP1550 on Sunday, thanks to a tip from Tommy.
                  I have a little blog about my shop

                  Comment

                  • natausch
                    Established Member
                    • Aug 2009
                    • 436
                    • Aurora, IL
                    • BT3000 - 15A

                    #10
                    Nice choice on the DP1550. My only complaint about mine is the bolt action on the table to post lock-down. Other than making the mistake of not loosening it enough and flexing my adjustment shaft (easily fixed) there is a tendancy for the table to shift slightly while tightening the bolt.

                    Comment

                    • LCHIEN
                      Internet Fact Checker
                      • Dec 2002
                      • 20989
                      • Katy, TX, USA.
                      • BT3000 vintage 1999

                      #11
                      Originally posted by CocheseUGA
                      ...I guess I need a little bit of an education on the bandsaw. I know 9 and 10" ones won't resaw, but am unclear as to when that starts being an option and what kind of blades you're looking at to do so. Outside of resawing, I'll need to make some more intricate cuts for the morris chair.

                      ...
                      Resawing is just a ripping operation of a board on edge to make two or more thinner boards or veneers of of an original board.

                      Well, most any BS will resaw, a 9 or 10" band saw will resaw up to around 3-4-5 inches, that's about all the clearance under the highest position the guide will rise to on a typcial saw.

                      I suppose there's no real reason a small wheel BS (basically the measurement is the wheel diameter and also the clearance from the blade to the support column) can't be made to resaw deeply except that it is sort of out of proportion. usually resawing uses wider blades and need more neck strength and a more powerful motor so everything has to be bigger and more adjustable - which usually drives the price out of range.

                      A 14" saw of the common style (delta cast iron) will resaw about 6-7 inches and an optional riser (neck extension) will usually raise them to resaw as much as 12-13". Other so called sheet metal or European style BS of 14" size (like Rikon) have maybe 10 or more inches of resaw as delivered.

                      Usually your bigger wheel saws have correspondingly more resaw capacity, larger motor and can take wider blades, all of which are necessary for larger resaws. Oh yeah the bigger price tag, too.

                      The numbers are sort of off the top of my head, I usually look them up but I'm lazy today.
                      Last edited by LCHIEN; 07-06-2010, 04:37 PM.
                      Loring in Katy, TX USA
                      If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                      BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                      Comment

                      • Cochese
                        Veteran Member
                        • Jun 2010
                        • 1988

                        #12
                        I have a line on a planer, it might be a AP1300 (I asked if it had tables, and he said it did). For $100, is it a deal? Sounds like it is.
                        I have a little blog about my shop

                        Comment

                        • Dutchman46
                          Forum Newbie
                          • Aug 2006
                          • 56
                          • Holland Michigan
                          • BT3000

                          #13
                          I think I would put a wanted to buy on Craig'slist You may be able to pick and choose if You get a few bites. Remember, it is much easier to respond to a post, that to write a post. There may be a few sellers.

                          Comment

                          • Uncle Cracker
                            The Full Monte
                            • May 2007
                            • 7091
                            • Sunshine State
                            • BT3000

                            #14
                            An AP1300 in good shape is a bargain at 100 bucks. I have always been happy with mine. Make sure it is an AP1300, rather than an AP1301. HD called the 1301 mistakenly by the 1300 number for some time, and the AP1301 is a step way back in quality and features.

                            Comment

                            • Cochese
                              Veteran Member
                              • Jun 2010
                              • 1988

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Uncle Cracker
                              An AP1300 in good shape is a bargain at 100 bucks. I have always been happy with mine. Make sure it is an AP1300, rather than an AP1301. HD called the 1301 mistakenly by the 1300 number for some time, and the AP1301 is a step way back in quality and features.

                              Indeed. I think I've familiarized myself enough with the pics to be able to tell the difference. I just hope he didn't think the planing surface on the 1301 was the 1300 folding tables I was referring to.

                              I'll find out within two days regardless.
                              I have a little blog about my shop

                              Comment

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