Another (soon to be) BT3000 Owner!

[David D]

Hi Guys! I have been shopping for a table saw, but due to size constraints (small 11' x 11' shop with 32" door) I have had a tough time deciding on a small saw. Whatever I use will need to be wheeled out into the carport during use, so anything larger than 31" in depth/width is out of the question. I was just about settled on the Bosch 4100, but someone on a car forum that I belong to suggested finding a used Ryobi BT3000. I started reading about them and I found one for sale locally. It includes the accessory outfeed table, long extension table that attaches to the fence rails, and a mobile base. Looks to be in great condition and he has all paperwork. I'll probably pick it up sometime this week. I've done a lot of reading on the BT series and am encouraged by all that I've read on this site. I' sure I'll be asking lots of questions! Merry Christmas!

[pelligrini]

Welcome!

I've got a similar sized shop, a 10x12 shed, but the doors are 4' though. The craftsman 21829 (bt clone on a gravity rise stand) does make it workable though.

There's a lot of good info on small shop ideas in here too.

[RAFlorida]

Welcome aboard David.

You are in the right forum for the right saw. If you need help, just ask. Loring and Ray both have mucho info on the BT3Xs. And a Merry Christmas to you and your also.

[Uncle Cracker]

Not meaning to scare you, but you will be much happier in the long run if the saw you are buying is one of the newer iterations of the BT3000. There are some issues with older models. The two you should be most interested in before you buy your saw are the 13-amp (older) motor vs. the 15-amp (newer) motor, and the old-style on/off switch vs. the newer variety. Check out Loring's (LCHIEN) FAQ and Ray's (RAYINTHEUK) tutorial for more info on how to identify whether you may be buying yourself into a problem...

Another issue is the infamous shim dislocation problem. If your intended saw has a smooth and full-range raising and lowering of the blade via the front crank handle, then you don't have the problem (yet), or it has already been corrected. This is not a deal-breaker, as there is a fix, and you will get good use from the unit after it's been done.

That said, it's a helluva saw, and if you care for it properly, you'll be amazed how much you can do with it. Stay tuned here for help if you need it, and welcome aboard.

[JoeyGee]

I second what UC said, but depending on the price, I would consider getting that one even if it is the older model. It seems to have many of the useful extras that can be used on a newer model.

I'm NOT trying to discourage you from getting the BT3000. I started with the 3100, so I have no experience with any 3000.

Welcome aboard!

[Mr__Bill]

Mine is an older 13A saw. Haven't found anything it can't do if I'm careful and don't push it too hard. I think you will enjoy the saw and welcome to the forum.


Bill

[Black wallnut]

IIRC the 13 amp motor was only made for a very short period of time at the very beginning of the production. The Switch problem, and I believe there were two different issues on two different sub models had this issue.

[LCHIEN]

regarding the desriability of a bT3000 vs BT3100
the 13Amp model was only made for a year, they are not very common, given a choice i would get the 15A model, you can read that off the nameplate.
The only other gotcha on a 3000 vs 3100 is the shims.The 3100 will retain its shims, the 3000 is known to shed its shims when not kept clean and properly lubed. According to a poll i did here 30% of BT3000 owners have had some shim problem.
I would get a BT3000 if the shims were intact and the elevation moved smoothly, then lube the shim ways with paste wax immediately and every few months.

Both BT3100 and BT3000 had at different times different switch problems, the BT3000 one is easier to idenitfy and easy to fix. The first one or two years they made the BT3000 with red and green start stop pushbuttons. THis is the recalled switch. THe good BT3000 switch has a red push-to-stop cover covering a rocker switch. A call to Ryobi should get you a free replacement.

Request my BT3 FAQ - see sig line below - before you buy.

[leehljp]

I have both the 3000 (in Japan) and the 3100 (in the USA). I added wheels to both and wheel them around considerably. In the States, my little shop is 12 by 18. Here (Japan) I have a 9 X 12, and have to wheel it out on a 9 by 12 wood deck in front of the shed.

One note on these saws: Originally they were made as precision contractors saws but they did not stand up to rough contractor type of work. Some people have bought this saw and tried to use it as though it were a heavy duty contractors saw in which it got tossed around in the back of a pickup or dropping 2X4s on them or force feeding rips as though it were a 220 volt.

AS a very accurate saw and for people who take their time and treat their tools as an investment, this is a huge value and a great saw and a very capable saw for even big projects.

WELCOME!

[David D]

Wow, thanks for all the responses! The saw was built in 1994 according to the serial number plate, so hopefully that means it's a 15 amp model. It does have the switch with the red and green buttons, so that will get updated sooner than later. Price wise, I'm getting the whole deal for $300, which seems pretty fair considering it's condition and that it includes the aforementioned accessories. I also checked the run out and it looked fine. It comes with a few different throat plates too. All in all, it looks like has been well cared for. Loring, I'll send you a PM for your FAQ!

[Charlie]

Originally they were made as precision contractors saws

I really wish people would get this straight. The BT's are not the same design as a Contractor's saw, and they can't even be categorized as a portable Jobsite saw because they are so delicate.

[Black wallnut]

I really wish people would get this straight. The BT's are not the same design as a Contractor's saw, and they can't even be categorized as a portable Jobsite saw because they are so delicate.

Charlie, exactly how long have you been a student of Ryobi BT3K saws? I suggest you re-read what Hank has written about the BT3K Saw. It was either '99 or Y2K that I first met Hank on the old Ryobi website and he was an old hand then. I expect he knows what he is talking about when it comes to the history of the saw.

There is a world of difference between a contractor saw and "precision contractors saws" and the only similar part is the person using each, or target market.

[leehljp]

I really wish people would get this straight. The BT's are not the same design as a Contractor's saw, and they can't even be categorized as a portable Jobsite saw because they are so delicate.

Charlie, you are right about it not being a contractor's saw as it is now. I forget the man's name that was Ryobi's Customer Service Rep on the older Ryobi forum, I am sure some here will remember him. Anyway, I remember a note from him talking about the origins of the BT3000. Contractor's were originally targeted for the saws use, but Ryobi found it didn't stand up to the rough treatment of the contractor's segment, however it did find and developed its own niche outside of that.

Edited in later: A few other things I remember it seems like the engineer designers were in Italy. Does anyone else remember this? It was an attempt to do away with conventional thinking and try redesigning from the bottom up. Most redesigns of saws involved heavy cast iron to deal with vibration; this was designed to eliminate most of the vibration by purposeful design and tolerances. If done, light weight for easier mobility would be a result (hence aimed at contractors mobility). But the downfall was that contractors saws, being contractor's saws were operated not by the owner and by the worker. Consequently, an arm load of 2X4s dropped on the light weight weight aluminum top, SMT and rip fence, resulted in out of alignment quick. These are not the exact words but the gist of what I remember. But still it was originally designed to be used as a contractor's saw.


I remember the first time I saw one that I could touch and handle - in Tokyo around '91 or so - at a job site for a missionary home and church, - and some volunteers were using it. I don't remember it it was purchased there or in the States and brought over. They also had a Makita on site that was almost identical to the BT3000 with its own sliding miter table. The Makita was the same approximate size of the Ryobi. I did find a catalog and a reference to the Makita in it and I think it was only offered in Japan. But the BT3000 was offered in many countries.

As a side note, When I lived in Osaka, there was a store that had one on display until about 2002 or 2003 with the wide table kit and it sold for the equivalent of about $2000.00 US. I brought mine back from the States and paid $400.00 at HD. Same machine!

[Charlie]

There is a world of difference between a contractor saw and "precision contractors saws" and the only similar part is the person using each, or target market.

The difference is a Contractor's saw with a mediocure fence, and a Contractor's saw with a good fence.

[Charlie]

Charlie, you are right about it not being a contractor's saw as it is now. I forget the man's name that was Ryobi's Customer Service Rep on the older Ryobi forum, I am sure some here will remember him. Anyway, I remember a note from him talking about the origins of the BT3000. The contractor's segment was originally targeted, but Ryobi found it didn't stand up to the rough treatment of the contractor's segment, however it did find and developed its own niche outside of that.

I remember the first time I saw one in person - in Tokyo around '91 at a job site for a missionary home and church, and some volunteers were using it. They also had a Makita that was almost identical to the BT3000 with its own sliding miter table. The Makita was the same approximate size of the Ryobi. I did find a catalog and a reference to the Makita in it and I think it was only offered in Japan. But the BT3000 was offered in many countries.

The traditional Contractor's saw design is the same now as when it was first introduced, and was used on alot of jobsites, in cabinet shops, and many woodworkers. What is used on probably most jobsites now are Jobsite saws that are light in weight. Two different table saws. There are Benchtop table saws, Jobsite table saws, Contractor's table saws, Hybrid table saws, and Cabinet table saws. The traditional Contractor's table saw, has a cast iron top and internal works with miter slots and stamped steel wings, or cast iron wings. The motor is a 56 frame, capacitor start, can be wired for 115V or 220V, and can be removed quickly for storage, or when transported. The dust port if equiped is 4". It is a heavier built saw. I think your trying to call the BT's a Hybrid Contractor's saw, but you mention that the BT's couldn't stand up to the rough treatment of the jobsite. So what is it ? At best I think it's a inexpensive entry level Benchtop sliding table saw with a router table for some DIYers or occasional hobbyists. It probably works well for someone that doesn't have a compound miter saw and a router table, or the room for them in the future. A light, compact system.