Squaring lumber without a Planer?

[dkerfoot]

Just thought I'd shake the tree to see if there is a method I haven't considered.

I have a tablesaw (CM 21829) and a 6" jointer, but no planer. Both space and budget prevent me from getting a planer anytime soon.

What is the best method for squaring stock considering the tools I have available?

Currently, I'll usually joint two adjacent sides, get them to 90 degrees and then rip the two remaining sides on the TS. With thinner stock, this is less than ideal.

Is there a better way to get the faces parallel? Just wondering if I have missed out on some old-school technique.

Thanks!

[dbhost]

I've got a planer, and no jointer... Kind of the opposite problem... Depending on your stock, I think you are more or less on the money. If your jointer is wide enough, joint it on the wide sides so they are parallel, then flip it on edge and joint it tight up against the fence... With most jointers this is useless with wider stock though because it won't fit...

[docrowan]

Shopnotes had an article about a jig you could make that would turn a tablesaw into an edge jointer, but I don't know of anything the otherway around.

[drumpriest]

Joint so they are parallel isn't something that you can do. You can get them both flat, but they won't be parallel. Edge jointing can be done a number of ways, including this one.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=27458

There are router jigs to plane, but it's really slow going. You could get a jointer plane, lots of work there. Really, planers don't cost much, especially when you consider the savings on the lumber by buying rough cut. And as for space, park it under the wing of your TS.

Sorry if not much help...

[poolhound]

You can definitley rip the opposing edge to get it parallel but the other face is much tougher.

Using a router jig would work but as others have said this is a laborious job. Hand planing is similarly difficult and hard to get perfectly true to the opposing face.

IMHO - go and get a planer. I now have both but started with a planer as you can face joint on the planer and edge joint with a router and then true the opposing faces with the TS and TP.

Used ones regulalry can be found for approx $150 on my local CL. I think you are closest to Grand Rapids, this was the best I could see on offer on that CL

http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/tls/705463675.html

Its $300 but maybe he will take an offer......

[cabinetman]

Back in the early days, my suppliers did a better job planing than jointing. I too then got a jointer before a planer. As stated, you can also edge joint on a tablesaw, and use a belt sander or hand planes on the faces, but that won't guarantee you parallel faces.

What I did was rip my stock for the project, whether it was R&S's or FF's, or whatever, and if they were narrow enough to joint, would face joint both sides to get them as close as possible. Then any alignment, such as R&S's or FF's, any machining was indexed from one side. Once mounted or assembled, the side or sides can be dressed. Getting doors that close, once hung on the cabinet, you'd never know.

The equalizer was the belt sander, or hand planes. It definitely can be done.
.

[dkerfoot]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

When I say I don't have room for a planer, I am quite serious. my shop is 11' x 10'. In it, I have a workbench, 21829 table saw, large router table, miter saw, drill press and 6" jointer. I also have a dust collector which I keep just outside the door.

Everything is on wheels and I roll one tool out at a time. When the tablesaw is not in use it is folded up and rolled to the corner. A great many tools and jigs hang overhead from the exposed joists. It feels a bit like one of these puzzles. If I add a planer, it will be the 16th piece and nothing more will ever happen.

On the bright side, the concrete floor of my one car, detached garage has started heaving, causing the whole thing to go out of square. I may have no choice but to replace it...

[just started]

1. Make a shelf of 3/4" material to fit under the saw 2" above the floor to store the portable planer.

2. Buy a portable planer.

3. Crank blade in table saw fully down and place planer on saw table.

4. Plane away.

5. Store planer on shelf under saw and cover with old pillow case.

There's always room for (???) 'jello'!!!

[dkerfoot]

1. Make a shelf of 3/4" material to fit under the saw 2" above the floor to store the portable planer.

If I wanted to store a planer under my 21829, I'd hurt my back lifting the table saw to place it on top each time I was putting it away! (I fold the saw up and store it in a corner when not in use)

[Russianwolf]

How about a $50 investment in a #5 or larger hand plane?

Another option is finding a local place that you can retn time on their planer.

[poolhound]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

When I say I don't have room for a planer, I am quite serious. my shop is 11' x 10'. In it, I have a workbench, 21829 table saw, large router table, miter saw, drill press and 6" jointer. I also have a dust collector which I keep just outside the door.

Everything is on wheels and I roll one tool out at a time. When the tablesaw is not in use it is folded up and rolled to the corner. A great many tools and jigs hang overhead from the exposed joists. It feels a bit like one of these puzzles. If I add a planer, it will be the 16th piece and nothing more will ever happen.

On the bright side, the concrete floor of my one car, detached garage has started heaving, causing the whole thing to go out of square. I may have no choice but to replace it...

I have a litle more room than you but still have to have all my tools on roll around bases. I have tried to get everything to be as multi use as possible.

This is what I built for my planer and I can use the top for other tools while its stored.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=38534