what to get for sharpening

[dtam]

I have a few Marples chisels, and a plane iron from a Stanley #4 I just bought on ebay that I need to sharpen. I've used the scary sharp method to sharpen chisels before by hand, but can't get it super sharp. Just can't get the bevel and microbevel right.

I'm considering either getting the Veritas MkII honing jig for $58, or the Work Sharp WS3000 for $150 on Amazon (currently at $200, but I've seen it at $150 before).

I don't have any turning or carving tools to sharpen, just chisels and maybe plane irons. What would you guys recommend?

thanks.

[jonmulzer]

If you bought the Veritas, what would you use it with?

[Anna]

I have both systems, and sharpening is not my favorite activity, so take this with a grain of salt.

The WorkSharp is great for maintaining the sharpness of your chisels. With old rusty ill-maintained chisels, the WS took a bit longer to clean up the chisels than I expected. But after they were sharpened, it was a cinch and really convenient to keep them sharp. You just plug it in and let it run.

The problem I had with plane irons is that the WS is limited to 2". Some of the larger planes have blades wider than that, so you'll need a MKII or similar anyway when you decide to expand your plane collection.

With the MKII, you'll need the stones or sand paper and a really flat surface to work with. It's more versatile, allowing me to work with my larger plane irons, but it's slower and messier. With all the set up steps required to use the MKII and stones (I don't have a dedicated sharpening station), I end up not doing the requisite sharpening as much as I probably should.

Right now, I'm eyeing the Pinnacle honing kit because, well, there are still some things about the MKII I'm not quite happy about. Woodcraft has a 10% off sale on March 1 and I'll probably pick this set up then.

[scmhogg]

I use the MKII and a 12" X 24" piece of 1/2" glass. I use grits of sandpaper up to 4000. I also use some abrasive powders that I bought from a telescope company. I finish up with a leather strop charged with rouge. I am more than satisfied with the results on flat chisels and plane irons.

Steve

[Tequila]

The problem I had with plane irons is that the WS is limited to 2". Some of the larger planes have blades wider than that, so you'll need a MKII or similar anyway when you decide to expand your plane collection.

That's sort of true. The Worksharp can handle larger irons by using a guide at the top of the wheel instead of the bottom. But you can't use the built in guide, which sounds like the piece of the puzzle that dtam is looking for.

[Anna]

That's sort of true. The Worksharp can handle larger irons by using a guide at the top of the wheel instead of the bottom. But you can't use the built in guide, which sounds like the piece of the puzzle that dtam is looking for.

Yes, I've forgotten about that. I never even thought about it because there's no real guide with respect to the angle and I ended up messing my bevel when I tried it with my big plane iron (before I dug out my MKII again). Maybe with some practice, it'll work out fine. I just like the reproducibility inherent in the MKII and the WS' bevel guide.

[Uncle Cracker]

I have a Tormek now (because I fell into a great deal on a used one) but used to use a Veritas jig and wet sand on a granite slab. Also have used the jig with some good quality water stones. Took a little work and a little patience, but usually got excellent results. Stropping with jewelers rouge is a nice finishing touch. Curved edge tools were still understandably a PITA, though.

[LarryG]

If you don't already own a copy of Leonard Lee's "The Complete Book of Sharpening," get that before you get anything else. It's the bible on this subject, as well as the instruction manual.

[mpc]

I've never used the Worksharp, but I do use the Mk II. It's fairly easy. You do have to pay attention when inserting the tool - and making sure the roller is on the right setting when you start. Since I don't sharpen all that often I have to keep the instruction sheet handy just in case. I've been eyeballing the WS3000 too; but the 2 inch capacity limit bothers me. And it's one more larger tool I'd have to find a home for in the garage. (it triples as woodshop, car shop and 2-car parking) The Mk II squirrels away easily.

For a while Lowes was clearance pricing some quarter inch glass slabs, about 16 inches long and 4 or 5 inches wide - basically medicine cabinet shelves. I grabbed two; they make great sharpening bases for sandpaper. Anything "dead flat" will work; for starters a couple slabs of thick MDF glued together would probably hold you for a while.

mpc

[dtam]

Thanks everyone, I'm going to get the Veritas MkII when it goes on sale at Woodcraft.

In the meantime, I'm going to try this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95526

[JR]

In the meantime, I'm going to try this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95526

While you're there, check this out:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92867

It's very useful to when getting started on a new edge.

JR

[SARGE..g-47]

A day late and a dollar short.. my story. I use the scary sharp as of two years ago. As a matter of fact, someone is picking up a set of King water stones I am litterally giving away tomorrow.

Sandpaper is quick if you use self adhesive backs and you are not limited to under 2", which is the major draw-back of the WS. Using the top free-hand is not as efficient as using the jig your are going to purchase.

I do have a work station.. tempered glass plate and keep adhesive paper (not necessarily cheap when you need at least 5 grits) and the old style LV Mark I is suppose? Once you get it down to a science.. much quicker and less messy than water stones by far.

[herb fellows]

A day late and a dollar short.. my story. I use the scary sharp as of two years ago. As a matter of fact, someone is picking up a set of King water stones I am litterally giving away tomorrow.

Sandpaper is quick if you use self adhesive backs and you are not limited to under 2", which is the major draw-back of the WS. Using the top free-hand is not as efficient as using the jig your are going to purchase.

I do have a work station.. tempered glass plate and keep adhesive paper (not necessarily cheap when you need at least 5 grits) and the old style LV Mark I is suppose? Once you get it down to a science.. much quicker and less messy than water stones by far.

I have read somewhere (?) that there is now a retro fit for chisels larger thn 2 inches on the worksharp. I imagine it's a tool rest with some kind of clamping device to use on the top, but I haven't really had the time to investigate.

[dkerfoot]

I like the Veritas MK II. I always use it when honing the main bevel. When in a hurry to resharpen, I'll often just do the micro-bevel by hand. It is much easier when you have a solid main bevel to then just lift it a hair for a couple long slow strokes.

[JR]

I notice in a flier I got at the store today that the HF 35098 slow-speed wet/dry grinder is on sale for $44. Does anyone have this tool? How well does it work?