I have had my new CM21829 for a month. I have cut small thicknesses of maple(1/4"), walnut(1/2"), pine(3/4") and cedar 2X6's without a problem. Yesterday making a new featherboard out of 3/4" oak I got burn marks on my cuts. What am I doing wrong?
Burnt oak
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if everything is aligned correctly, burn marks are usually a result of too slow a feed.
you should not have trouble feeding 3/4 stock of hardwood, like oak.
If you can't feed faster because the blade is not cutting or the motor is bogging down then you have some cutting issues like dirty blade, dull blade, alignment, wrong type of blade, blade in backwards (yes it happens) too small an extension cord, inadequate power circuit (saw needs all 15 amps), cut binding, etc.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions -
Ahah! I think I know what the problem is thanks to your mention of the power issues. I have a small heater attached to that line and I usually remember to turn it off before I use the saw. I bet I didn't.
Thanks.regards,
Charlie
A woman is only a woman, but a good cigar is a smoke.
Rudyard KiplingComment
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Just a follow up to Lchien's advice. I have installed two new 20 Amp services. One for the saw and another to accommodate the new Jet filtration system I have added.regards,
Charlie
A woman is only a woman, but a good cigar is a smoke.
Rudyard KiplingComment
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I have a 21829, and let me tell you, the stock blade is JUNK. I had the exact same issues as you... burning, etc, and after careful alignment and moving to a dedicated circuit still had them to some degree. After changing out the blade to a Freud industrial though, OMG, it was a completely different tool.
Apparently the Ryobi BT3100 had a good stock blade, but the 21829 stock blade is generic no name trash. Works great on MDF though.Comment
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