Short rip fence

[niki]

Hi SARGE

I also made some feather board but I was very unsatisfied with the results...

Instead, I'm using "feather rollers" that are tilted and by that, not only pushing the board to the fence but also, pushing the board down to the table.

I also use "hold down rollers" that are working the same - pushing down and to the fence.

Not always I use the "hold down rollers" but I don't "move" without the "feather roller"

With those 2 aids, it's so relaxed to cut any board, just push...

Regards
niki

[jackellis]

Afraid my garage...er shop is too crowded for a dedicated SCMS stand. Hopefully in a house we're designing...

Back to the position of the short fence. It seems to me that so long as the leading edge of the board being sawn is behind the center of the arbor, kickback is no more likely than if the leading edge was just behind the last tooth that finally severs the board. I typically position my blade so that the bottom of the gullet sits at the same level as the top of the board, so in theory I should be able to use the front to the middle of the arbor as a reference point and leave the front edge of the fence there. One less thing to fiddle with, so long as it's safe.

[SARGE..g-47]

Hi SARGE

I also made some feather board but I was very unsatisfied with the results...

Instead, I'm using "feather rollers" that are tilted and by that, not only pushing the board to the fence but also, pushing the board down to the table.

I also use "hold down rollers" that are working the same - pushing down and to the fence.

Not always I use the "hold down rollers" but I don't "move" without the "feather roller"

With those 2 aids, it's so relaxed to cut any board, just push...

Regards
niki

[ATTACH]8373[/ATTACH][ATTACH]8374[/ATTACH]

Nice set-up as I have come to expect from you. Hey.. what's new as we are talking about the man that got published for fine illustration and instruction. Congratulations on that and keep up the excellent job you are doing.

[SARGE..g-47]

Afraid my garage...er shop is too crowded for a dedicated SCMS stand. Hopefully in a house we're designing...

Back to the position of the short fence. It seems to me that so long as the leading edge of the board being sawn is behind the center of the arbor, kickback is no more likely than if the leading edge was just behind the last tooth that finally severs the board. I typically position my blade so that the bottom of the gullet sits at the same level as the top of the board, so in theory I should be able to use the front to the middle of the arbor as a reference point and leave the front edge of the fence there. One less thing to fiddle with, so long as it's safe.

I think that as right tilt-left tilt.. which saw is better..etc. etc. it could be debated and no one could provide the scientifically correct answer. I agree that you can put it just short of center blade and you are very well off as that was my original thoughts.

But.. I had a discussion with Richard Jones about this and he gave me an answer that he felt gave you the narrowest of edges by changing positions. Richard apprenticed in England and had a professional shop in Houston for years. He shut down a couple of years ago and moved back to England to accept a teaching job at one of the English Colleges that gives degrees in WW. He has published in FWW mag.. Wood mag and Furniture & Cabinet Making (equilavent to our FWW here). But... with that said... it doesn't make his theory 100% correct and he pointed that out and stated the edge is minor.

The theory being that once the final tooth has severed, why not hit the stop switch with the knee and let the blade completely stop. There is no need to go further, I presented the fact to him you could do the same thing with the fence positioned slightly forward of final sever as long as you killed power and let it come to a complete stop to accomplish that.

His answer was by doing so that "many would be tempted" to push the stock farther than is necessary after the cut is made. That minute difference could be just the spot that reaction wood reacted and decided to raise some H*ll with your saw. Just a minor moment.. but still a potential slight opportunity that could have been taken away with the move.

So... just a minor and fine tuned detail that you can adopt or not if you don't feek it necessary. When I rip.. I am usually doing a minimum of 100 linear feet of the same thickness, so five seconds changing the position fore or aft is not a bother to me.

I think the main thing is just to realize the benefits of a short fence. Work out any mods or theories with what you find after the fact.

Have a good day, Bob...