zctp 2 questions

[agent511]

And I think I know the answers, too!

1. I am doing a ZCTP for a thin-kerf blade. I need to 'break the ice' on this first. I don't have a 7 1/4" thin kerf blade. How do I do this? I surmise I just use the smaller blade and make a small cut into the zctp, just enough to allow the 10" blade under and complete the cut.

2. With my Forrest WWII thin kerf, I bought a dampener plate. When I used this combo with my existing (1/8") zctp, i realized when I had trouble lifting the blade, that it was hanging up, then realized it was the extra plate that was hanging it up. I surmise that I can only use this combo for very low blade heights; for higher heights, I have to take the dampener off, which really makes it kinda useless, since it is for the higher heights that you would want moer stability in the blade.

[Thom2]

1. On the 1/4 lexan plates I made, the blade went low enough to allow cutting with a 10" blade, YMMV tho' as I have seen issues with fried belts even with a 1/4" plate. I'd probably use a 1/8" or 1/4" bit on the router table to route a relief in the underside of the plate.
2. You can also route reliefs for the stabilizer plates if you insist on using them, but no matter what you do you won't be able to cut at full height with the plates installed. You lose considerable cutting depth using the plates. Personally I'd just ditch them, but that's me.

[LCHIEN]

last question 1st - ditch the dampener. They don't seem to do any good and gives you the problems mentioned. That seems to be the general concensus here if you want to search the archives.

as for the other Q, you just need to remove enough material from the underside of the ZCTP so the 10" blade doesn't "hang" on the ZCTP when you start the saw, possibly breaking the belts. So yes, you could slightly score the bottom of the ZCTP with a FK 7" blade.
So I'd have to think a bit to figureout how to know when to stop raising the 7" blade... or for that matter to check if the 10" blade is even contact the bottom of the blank ZCTP...

I can offer you this: the elevation screw of the BT3 is 12 Threads per inch, so each 1/4 turn of the crank raises the blade ~.021" . If you measure the thickness of the ZCTP and set the blade so it touches the bottom of the ZCTP, then you know how many turns to raise it without breaking thru.

[scorrpio]

1 - I personally had no proble "priming" a 1/4" thick ZCTP with a regular 10" blade. But yeah you can rout a groove on the underside to make things easier.

2 - ditch the stiffener.

[LinuxRandal]

Maybe this isn't the place, but when T-nuts was sold, I thought Gugie had stopped making/selling the zero clearance throat plates.

The neighbor who upgraded, asked me about them, and I see they are on the site. Are they still being sold?

What about Styron's PDF? That is 404, anyone have a copy I can give him?

Thanks

[agent511]

thanks for the help all.

Linux might want to consider starting a new thread. No extra charge

[mkel2000]

Stiffener or Dampener?

Two replies to the OP talk about a stiffener or dampener. I assume both are referring to the small metal circles that fit on either side of the blade? Is it safe to operate the BT without this device? I figured since it was included by Ryobi it was a necessary safety item for operation of the BT.

Mark

[Pappy]

The blade dampener is an extra disc that bolts on with the blade, supposedly to reduce vibration and distortion on thin kerf blades.

[LCHIEN]

Two replies to the OP talk about a stiffener or dampener. I assume both are referring to the small metal circles that fit on either side of the blade? Is it safe to operate the BT without this device? I figured since it was included by Ryobi it was a necessary safety item for operation of the BT.

Mark

You're referring to the blade washers. They have the "flats" that match the flats on the arbor. That keeps them from rotating, and when they clamp the blade it keeps the blade form rotating unless it's really stuck.
You must keep the blade washers on.

The blade stiffeners are aftermarket devices similar but with a circular arbor hole (no flats) about 1/8" to 3/16 thick and about 3-5 inches in diameter.
It also limits unintentionally the depth of cut...

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/10736

[Stytooner]

What about Styron's PDF? That is 404, anyone have a copy I can give him?

Thanks

I don't think they are being sold right now by anyone. I somehow lost Gugie's pdf between website swaps and computer crashes. If someone does have a copy, I would like to get it back and host it again.
Thanks.

[mkel2000]

You're referring to the blade washers. They have the "flats" that match the flats on the arbor. That keeps them from rotating, and when they clamp the blade it keeps the blade form rotating unless it's really stuck.
You must keep the blade washers on.

The blade stiffeners are aftermarket devices similar but with a circular arbor hole (no flats) about 1/8" to 3/16 thick and about 3-5 inches in diameter.
It also limits unintentionally the depth of cut...

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/10736

Thank you for clearing up my confusion.

Mark

[Bruce Cohen]

I don't think they are being sold right now by anyone.

Hey Lee,

I thought you once stated that you would run off a few for us poor lost souls.

I could 2 at the least.

This is mucho important as I souuldnt even be at the computer today (Most solem Jewish holday, and If we believed in H**l, that's where I'm going to go).

Please make my eternity in a hot place worth while.

Bruce

[maxparot]

Hey Lee,
This is mucho important as I souuldnt even be at the computer today (Most solem Jewish holday, and If we believed in H**l, that's where I'm going to go).

Please make my eternity in a hot place worth while.

Bruce

Hey Bruce,
There is no H**l in the Jewish faith!

[agent511]

I actually stayed off the internet last 24 hours, trying to be a little more repentent as I age. L'shana tovah, Bruce and Max. Now I am back.

Yes the dampener/stiffener is an add-on flat round plate to give more substance to the thin blade to prevent vibration/wobble. It is not the mandatory washers that may come with your saw. (I have a different saw, being a darksider).

I have another ZCTP question. I will be drilling a large hole , like 3/4", to aid in dust clearance from the top of the saw, and also to aid in removing the ZCTP as a finger hole. Is there a particular "sweet spot" to make the hole? I am thinking to the right of the blade, and in front of the furthest forward extension of the blade slot.

[Bruce Cohen]

Hey Bruce,
There is no H**l in the Jewish faith!

Hey Max,

In a way there is, its called marrage

Bruce