Anybody know about a clue-up TS blade?

[lcm1947]

I was watching my DVD from Kreg Tools on building a coffee table today and the guy ( Master Woodworker - John Sillaots ) mentioned one and actually uses it for both sides of the boards when clueing up table tops even after jointing one edge to get it straight. He states that it insures a better joint for cluing the boards. I never knew that. Anybody ever use or own one? I'm thinking about doing a table top and am thinking about buying one but he didn't mention brand or anything. I don't even know what to look for.

[MilDoc]

Here's one:

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM74R010...0487031&sr=1-1

I have this blade but haven't used it yet. Planning on some tables and a headboard myself "pretty soon."

[Bruce Cohen]

Mac,

I purchased this blade right after it came out. Since then I've ripped everything from Poplar to Ebony and have found it flawless.

IMHO, this is the only blade for ripping. Just be careful with maple, it has a nasty tendency to burn, but one pass with a plane makes the marks go away.

Bruce

[mschrank]

I don't have a glue what you're talking about.

[LCHIEN]

I was watching my DVD from Kreg Tools on building a coffee table today and the guy ( Master Woodworker - John Sillaots ) mentioned one and actually uses it for both sides of the boards when clueing up table tops even after jointing one edge to get it straight. He states that it insures a better joint for cluing the boards. I never knew that. Anybody ever use or own one? I'm thinking about doing a table top and am thinking about buying one but he didn't mention brand or anything. I don't even know what to look for.

Mac, I think what everyone is gently trying to tell you is that you mistook the words Glue-up or Glue-line as "Clue-up". When i first saw the title I thought you made a typo.

The words Glue-line rip blade are generally taken to mean a rip blade that cuts cleanly enough to keep from having to run it thru a jointer before glueing for edge joining (e.g. gluing up) a panel.

[Ken Massingale]

Mac, I get glue-up ready edges with the WW II. But I caught it on sale for a little more than the Freud. If Bruce recommends the Freud, I would go for it at that price.

[mschrank]

Mac, I think what everyone is gently trying to tell you is that you mistook the words Glue-up or Glue-line as "Clue-up". When i first saw the title I thought you made a typo.

Not everyone, Loring. Looks like I was the only smart@$$ this morning

Sorry 'bout that Mac...but I love word play and just couldn't resist a little ribbing.

?

[lcm1947]

Misspelling a word one time can be chalked up to a typo . Three times in a single paragraph means you can't spell that darn word. So now if everyone and that's spelled mschrank is through making fun of people we'll move along. Thanks for the replies and the link MilDoc. Boy that blade sure has a lot of good stuff said about it. Only one bad comment out of 25. Ken I do have a WWll blade but thought this blade was especially designed for Glue-ups or something. I see now that it's just a matter of a good clean cut. Nothing magic about it or special. So I will try the WWll first. Thanks for mentioning that. So Bruce do you own a WWll and if so how do you think the two compare?

[Knottscott]

Misspelling a word one time can be chalked up to a typo . Three times in a single paragraph means you can't spell that darn word. So now if everyone and that's spelled mschrank is through making fun of people we'll move along. Thanks for the replies and the link MilDoc. Boy that blade sure has a lot of good stuff said about it. Only one bad comment out of 25. Ken I do have a WWll blade but thought this blade was especially designed for Glue-ups or something. I see now that it's just a matter of a good clean cut. Nothing magic about it or special. So I will try the WWll first. Thanks for mentioning that. So Bruce do you own a WWll and if so how do you think the two compare?

Hi Mac - The WWII and several other good general purp or combo blades should leave a clue ready edge , err, uh glue ready edge. The GLR's deliver as advertised, but so do a bunch of other blades the lack the "catch phrase". The LM74 is designed for material up to ~ 1" thick, and since they're not known for their crosscut ability, I don't see the LM74 replacing a WWII, TS2000, P410 Fusion, or even an LU84 type blade, but if you prefer specific task blades, there should be a place for one in your rack along with a crosscut blade and bulk ripper.

[lcm1947]

Thanks Dustmight for the info. You know just when I think I've got something down I learn something else or hear something else that throws me off. Example; I thought the more teeth a TS blade has the smoother the cut but here they're talking about a 30 tooth blade that is sold as a glue-line blade. I don't get it. Either the more teeth the smoother cut or not. It can't be both ways darn it. Very frustrating. Course maybe it's the type of teeth this blade has and I'm not too knowledgeable in that area so maybe that's it. I was thinking this John Sillaots mentioned that a glue-up blade opened the pores or something like that making it a better tighter glue-up. Maybe smoother is not what you are looking for????

[LCHIEN]

Thanks Dustmight for the info. You know just when I think I've got something down I learn something else or hear something else that throws me off. Example; I thought the more teeth a TS blade has the smoother the cut but here they're talking about a 30 tooth blade that is sold as a glue-line blade. I don't get it. Either the more teeth the smoother cut or not. It can't be both ways darn it. Very frustrating. Course maybe it's the type of teeth this blade has and I'm not too knowledgeable in that area so maybe that's it. I was thinking this John Sillaots mentioned that a glue-up blade opened the pores or something like that making it a better tighter glue-up. Maybe smoother is not what you are looking for????

well, its all relative. Generalizations are just that, and can't apply when too many conditions change.

When making the same cut, and all other things being equal, The more teeth usually is better, for example a 80-tooth blade with the otherwise same desiign parameters (e.g. hook angle, care in sharpening, materials, etc) will make a smoother cut.

Rip cuts and cross cuts are vastly different cuts, one is shearing the wood along its fibers and the other is cutting the fibers. In general, for cross cuts fewer teeth work because it allows a bigger gullet that is needed to carry off the cut material which tends to run for many feet rather than for a few inches.

Again many things go into quality of cuts. More teeth on a rip blade may be a trade off of a slower cut because smaller gullets but more teeth make the cut smoother. Also sharpening and tolerances seem to make a difference in cut quality. So a Glue-line rip may be due to a number of factors; beside the designation is really just a subjective quality anyway, I don't know of an ANSI standard for glue-line quality.

[Knottscott]

Thanks Dustmight for the info. You know just when I think I've got something down I learn something else or hear something else that throws me off. Example; I thought the more teeth a TS blade has the smoother the cut but here they're talking about a 30 tooth blade that is sold as a glue-line blade. I don't get it. Either the more teeth the smoother cut or not. It can't be both ways darn it. Very frustrating. Course maybe it's the type of teeth this blade has and I'm not too knowledgeable in that area so maybe that's it. I was thinking this John Sillaots mentioned that a glue-up blade opened the pores or something like that making it a better tighter glue-up. Maybe smoother is not what you are looking for????

Does get a little complicated doesn't it?... There is a complex blending of design philosophies with each blade that often contradicts logic. Like most design approaches, there are pros and cons to each. Number of teeth is a big factor, but the other design elements can be varied to some degree to change the results. If all else is equal (rarely is), more teeth will equal a smoother cut, but the trade off comes with an increased tendency to bog down more and burn. It's a matter of opinion, but mine is that 30 teeth is typically just capable of a glueable edge, but the LM74 has a very low side relief angle that contributes to a more polished cut. It's very effective on a well tuned saw, but the trade off is that it's also more prone to burning with certain woods, and will exaggerate that tendency with any alignment issues with the saw.

[lcm1947]

Thanks for the info Loring and Dustmight. Yeah, nothing is exact I guess. I'll just have to read up on blades more I guess to get a better understanding. I've a half a mind to buy one of these LM74's just to compare it with my Forester and see how they perform if I can even tell with my little experience. Sounds like a pretty good blade anyway so wouldn't hurt to have one.

[Knottscott]

... I've a half a mind to buy one of these LM74's just to compare it with my Forester and see how they perform if I can even tell with my little experience. Sounds like a pretty good blade anyway so wouldn't hurt to have one.

...now that's my kinda thinkin'!

Here's a couple of links to some reading material:
http://www.oldham-usa.com/
http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles

[lcm1947]

Oh thanks Dustmight. I shall do some reading this very night on them. Cool!