Received my HF DC

[jarhead]

quote:Originally posted by LCHIEN

quote:Originally posted by jarhead

Is it me or the Chinese measurements? The caster bolts do not fit through the 16 holes in the base. Also, the hardware bag (sealed) included only 4 nuts for the 16 caster bolts. [V]
Oh, one more thing, the base of the 3 long gray supports was bent. When the box arrived, they were protruding through the packaging. Nothing a hammer and a pair of pliers couldn't fix.

the instructions call for nuts and bolts to fasten the casters but the way it was made the holes in the base are threaded now so that the nuts are not necessary.

Also IIRC the nuts for the three vertical supports are also no longer needed. Maybe others but it was 9 months ago so my memory is foggy.

First of all, I have to apologize for the insensitive remark about the Chinese measurements. If I have offended anyone, it was not my intention.
Only some of the holes are threaded, not the ones for the casters. I have decided to remedy the problem with Loring's blocks method.

[JR]

I'm pretty sure the Chinese know how to measure......

But something interesting happened to me the other day when putting the riser block on my HF BS. The instruction manual was stapled on the right. All the text was there, in the right order. But leafing from left to right just raise a little chuckle.

JR

[LarryG]

quote:Originally posted by jarhead

what can I do with the table saw and the jointer hoods that came with the kit?

Probably the best way to look at these is not as a means of collecting dust per se but as a way to easily attach a hose to something ELSE that will collect dust.

Table Saw Hood: I built a frame out of 2x4s with sloping grooves that hold the plastic hood at about a 10* angle. I then cut away the bottom half of the 2x4 at the "high" end of the hood, to provide an opening. The result is something akin to a floor sweep fitting ...

http://www.toolpeddler.com/floor_sweep.htm

... which I clamp to the top of my router table as close as practicable to the bit. This homemade fixture does a great job of catching most of the top-side debris that does not get sucked down through the opening in the plate (by the DC hose that is connected to the under-table box in which the router is suspended).

Jointer Hood: I am working on the design for a shroud that will fit behind and semi-enclose my CMS, which like most CMSs sprays sawdust all over four different ZIP codes. I plan to mount the jointer hood to the side of the shroud housing to provide the place to attach the hose.

[drumpriest]

Yeah, I am designing my cabinet for under my SCMS now, and I'm toying with ideas for how to do dust collection, most of it is spit out the bottom toward the back. I thought that a wider funnel port there might work nicely.

Let me know if you feel otherwise, thanks!

[lcm1947]

When I realized that my casters were hitting the bottom base I started fooling around with them to try and figure out why in the world they would hit. I finally figured it out. If you will rotate the tabs 180 degrees they will no longer hit the base. I guess who ever assemblied them put the tabs onto the casters upside down. At least it worked for me without having to bend anything. Oh yeah just wait till you try to put the bottom bag on by yourself. [B)]

[LarryG]

quote:Originally posted by lcm1947

Oh yeah just wait till you try to put the bottom bag on by yourself.

And when you do get it on, don't try to muscle the notched-buckle retaining strap one notch past where it naturally wants to fall (which almost seems to loose), or you'll be blowing some of your quality woodworking time drilling out mangled rivets and replacing them with machine screws. Trust me on this one.

[LCHIEN]

quote:Originally posted by lcm1947

When I realized that my casters were hitting the bottom base I started fooling around with them to try and figure out why in the world they would hit. I finally figured it out. If you will rotate the tabs 180 degrees they will no longer hit the base. I guess who ever assemblied them put the tabs onto the casters upside down. At least it worked for me without having to bend anything. Oh yeah just wait till you try to put the bottom bag on by yourself. [B)]

My suspicion is that they changed caster suppliers and type from non-locking to locking and never did the math on whether they would fit.

[jarhead]

quote:Originally posted by lcm1947

...Oh yeah just wait till you try to put the bottom bag on by yourself. [B)]

Put the bottom bag on last night and it took all of 1 minute [:0]. Was I supposed to encounter a problem? I didn't try to force the buckle.
Now it's time to think about the canister/bag upgrade.

In an old post, Larry said that in order to turn the HF unit into an effective DC system, health-wise, I will need to do the canister filter conversion and/or buy better bags. Ideally I should also increase the size of all the hoses and ducting to something larger than the restrictive 4". Is this a good canister and bag combo (model E-10174D):
http://www.pennstateind.com/Merchant...y_Code=E-10174
or Grizzly's:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=H5783

What is involved in increasing the size of the ducting?

[tribalwind]

quote:Originally posted by jarhead
What is involved in increasing the size of the ducting?

for 6" pipe ?
deep pockets[B)]
even just the pvc at HD is pretty hefty at that size..
eh, i guess its another example of 'cry once'
not like its ever gonna break.

[bolson]

quote:Originally posted by tribalwind

quote:Originally posted by jarhead
What is involved in increasing the size of the ducting?

for 6" pipe ?
deep pockets[B)]
even just the pvc at HD is pretty hefty at that size..
eh, i guess its another example of 'cry once'
not like its ever gonna break.

Actually if you use sewer and drain pipe the cost in minimally more expensive for 6". I can get 10' sticks of 6" s&d pipe for $10 (4" is $9). And fittings (the expensive part) aren't too much different in price either. I did a canister conversion and piped my DC with only 6" pipe for under $300.

As far as I know neither lowes nor HD sell 6" s&d pipe or fittings, although every once and a while you get a rouge store that will stock it, it is not a routine item.

[sscherin]

Lowes in Parker, CO stocks the 6" S&D but at $19 for 10'

[LCHIEN]

quote:Originally posted by jarhead

quote:Originally posted by lcm1947

...Oh yeah just wait till you try to put the bottom bag on by yourself. [B)]

Put the bottom bag on last night and it took all of 1 minute [:0]. Was I supposed to encounter a problem? I didn't try to force the buckle.
Now it's time to think about the canister/bag upgrade.
...
Is this a good canister and bag combo (model E-10174D):
http://www.pennstateind.com/Merchant...y_Code=E-10174
or Grizzly's:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=H5783

I have the grizzly canister upgrade, it was an effortless upgrade except they don't supply the plastic bags - you can get those from PSI or Jet.

[tribalwind]

bolson , you're right i wasnt thinking about the straight-pipe runs with s&d.good idea maybe i'll go that route too .
ive seen here that the tubing though is no good as it creates too much drag being ribbed inside. the 6" flex stuff for wwing is pretty steep.
and re: HD, maybe it was 5" that i saw,its too longa go to remember,was the biggest stuff they had. yea the fittings do get ya more so.

[jarhead]

Can someone please explain the pro and cons of canister system as opposed to 1 micron bags.

[LarryG]

Jarhead, the Wynn's filter is 0.5 micron (other brands may vary), so it'll filter out finer particles than a 1 micron bag. Further, the filter is pleated which means a MUCH larger surface area than the bag has, so you get more total airflow. This page ...

http://www.wynnenv.com/9e300bl_conversion.htm

... does a good job of explaining both the basic principles and the kind of results you can expect.

EDIT: Those are the pros; I suppose the biggest cons of a filter conversion would be the cost, and work involved in doing it.