Installing ZCI?

[p8ntblr]

So I'm installing my first ZCI for my 22114 I got from Rockler. I planned on adjusting the side screws to make a snug fit, clamp down a piece of scrap particle board I have over the ZCI, turn the saw on and then slowly raise the blade. Is there anything I'm missing?

Also there's a hole at the end the guy said is there to be able to remove it. But doesn't that allow the dust to get in and thus nullifying the purpose of the ZCI? But then again I've never used a ZCI.

[MikeMcCoy]

The ZCI is more for tear out prevention. I usually just clamp a board to one side of the ZCI (not over the blade obviously) and then raise the blade.

[RodKirby]

Took me a while to work out "ZCI". It's normally called a ZCTP (Zero Clearance Throat Plate).

Make sure the scrap is well clamped - I used a piece of 2x4 so it wouldn't flex as I was raising the blade.

I used a raise/lower, raise/lower method - small bites, to cut thru. I'm guessing yours is phenolic? If it is, that stuff is hard - be gentle.

I also found that once complete, the very tiny saw blade vibration made it sound as though the blade was still trying to cut it. The documentation warned about this, and (as they said it would), it went away after a few uses.

I would add - as well as avoiding tear out, it also stops thin strips dropping thru - not normally dangerous but makes a **** of a BANG when it happens.

[p8ntblr]

Well I just tried to dry fit it and it doesn't fit. The guy at the store did say he wasn't too sure it would fit as Craftsman outsources many of their products and the throat plate sizes may vary. The tag just said Craftsman and not one for a specific model. Maybe I'll try peachtree, they have one for my specific model.

[RodKirby]

This is where I got mine - measure the length and width of the plate recess and pick the one for you. I also had to "fiddle" with it a bit to get it to seat properly - make sure it seats perfectly before you start cutting!

Lee Valley calls them ZCTI's

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=30283&cat=1,41080,51225&ap=1

[p8ntblr]

Took me a while to work out "ZCI". It's normally called a ZCTP (Zero Clearance Throat Plate).

Thanks for the clarification Rod. Do you have a different one for doing bevel cuts (or just use the stock one)?

[RodKirby]

Thanks for the clarification Rod. Do you have a different one for doing bevel cuts (or just use the stock one)?

Just the stock one. I don't think the advantages of a 90° ZCTP are as important for bevel cuts.

[Tom Hintz]

I have two stories on installing zero clearance inserts at the links below. the first is for installing the insert itself, the second on installing it with the factory splitter in place.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/inst0dgreinsrt.html

http://www.newwoodworker.com/0crnceinsrtsand%20splitrs.html

[ragswl4]

22114 Zctp

I recentlly purchased the same saw and have been planning on making a ZCTP. One issue I have noticed is that the saw blade, when completely lowered does not go below the bottom of the standard throat plate, only about 1/8" below the top of the plate. Do you think I have a problem here as I don't see that I could install a blank plate as the blade would not let it seat all the way flush with the table top? Maybe my lower stop is misadjusted?

[steve-norrell]

I recentlly purchased the same saw and have been planning on making a ZCTP. One issue I have noticed is that the saw blade, when completely lowered does not go below the bottom of the standard throat plate, only about 1/8" below the top of the plate. Do you think I have a problem here as I don't see that I could install a blank plate as the blade would not let it seat all the way flush with the table top? Maybe my lower stop is misadjusted?

Based on my experience with the BT3100 I would suggest cutting a groove in the underside of the throat plate with either a dado blade or a router. Take out just enough for the blade to clear and spin freely when it starts. On the BT3100 this prevents binding and damage to the drive belts.

Only 1/8 clearance below the table top does seem a little tight, but I have never measured the BT3100 so I really don't know. Perhaps others can offer comments.

Good luck, Steve

[ironhat]

Just install a smaller diameter blade to make the first pass. Anything with the same size arbor will work, even one of the outer baldes from your dado set.

[Tom Hintz]

It is not uncommon for a full 10" blade to hit a ZCI that is flat on the bottom. Nearly all manufacturered SCI's have a groove routed in the bottom to acomodate this conflict. As mentioned in another response, using a smaller blade from a circular saw or dado set that fits the arbor will get you started. Just make sure it has the same kerf width and the blade you eventually want to fit the ZCI.

[p8ntblr]

I have two stories on installing zero clearance inserts at the links below. the first is for installing the insert itself, the second on installing it with the factory splitter in place.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/inst0dgreinsrt.html

http://www.newwoodworker.com/0crncei...20splitrs.html

Thanks Tom. As with all your articles, they're both very informative and will put it to use when I install them. I think I'll end up getting the one from Sears.

[ragswl4]

Made My Own

Took about 30 minutes to make my own out of 1/2" MDF. Traced the outline on the MDF, marked all the holes and the slot from the original. Cut the plate out on the BS. In the outline of the original slot, I cut a 3/8" deep 1/4" wide stopped dado, centered on the original slot. Countersunk all the holes with a forstner bit, drilled undersized holes for machine screws in the leveling holes and a clearance hole for the one hold down bolt. Test fit and leveled the insert.

Clamped a board over the top of the new insert, slowly raised the blade and cut the new opening.

Finished it off with two coats of "wipe on poly" on the top. Saved $30 and very easy to make.

Edit: Pics if you want, let me know.