Opinions on repair and small gloat...

[Duff]

FIRST post and I'm looking for an opinion/assistance and a bit of a gloat(until someone shuts me down here).

I bought my first bandsaw two nights ago. Saw an ad on local craigslist for 12" bandsaw at $30. I immediatly called the owner and asked questions about it. He informed me the tool had sat in his garage for nearly 4-5 years since last using it. Upon arrival at his house (after stopping at the ATM) I inspected it as could be done. Table, 100 percent covered in rust. Wheels turned slow. Trucks (rubber bands if I'm calling it right) coated in metal dust. Blade . . .there and also 100% rust from what I could tell. He started it up and I said, sure, $30, I'll take it. So I loaded it up into my van and proceded home and commenced cleaning!!!



This is the final product. I'm sure I could do more cleaning, but it's functional now from what I've tested.





Here is where the opinion/assistance comes in. Could I safely use something like JBWeld to re manufacture the damaged guide housing? The locking screw does not have full thread engagement because the side is missing. How hard are the 'cool blocks' or guides to find for this type model? I keep seeing JET & another kind, but haven't found the Craftsman. Can I convert? I've seen some guide/blocks with a bearing on the ends also. Viable alternative? Theres no doubt I can make the repairs w/JBWeld, but will it hold up the the vibration & such? Should I just get another guide housing? Saw another housing somewhere that was nearly $150!!!

The original owner had the bearings actually on the inside of the blade pushing it out to the side causing the damage to the housing. They also of all things, had the blade backwards. Took me an hour to figure this out being my first bandsaw. Noticed the teeth looked upside down and I was looking for bandsaws for leftys...no kidding I was. Watching TV this evening, I thought about it for a few seconds and remembered how rubber bands can be flipped inside out, went out to the garage and removed then flipped the blade. WA-LA!!! I can be taught. Had to make the little table cover to prevent scrap from falling into the lower section & binding or stuff (1/8" plexi on my little scroll saw)

Someone tell me this was worth my $30.

[drumpriest]

You did well at 30$. Looks good.

[TheRic]

At $30 I think you did GREAT!! The scrape metal is worth more!! It works fine, from what you say. So I think it's a great start. For you to spot the difference in the blade, for not having one, is great! Down the road when you upgrade, you can probably get your money back and then some!

[LCHIEN]

here's a few thoughts for what they're worth:

1) you need a good book like one of Mark Duginske's or Lonnie Bird's on bandsaws. I don't recall the exact titles but they are listed many times in the topics here if you search for Bird or Duginske and bandsaw. They'll tell you how to align and tension the saw.
2) Cool blocks are sold in many sizes, looks like you have rectangular guide blocks so the cross section is the info you need to buy some. May be like 1/2 x 1/2, the length is immaterial. Solid steel ones will do for a while, also I have heard of people making them from hard maple or oak and soaking them in oil or WD40. You can find cool blocks at Sears Hardware, Woodcraft, Rockler, you'll need to call them and probably ask by the dimensions, I doubt they'll have a cross reference.
3) Sears is pretty good about stocking parts and making them available
Go to www3.sears.com and enter the saw model number - complete from the nameplate including the three digits, the dot, the 5 digit model no and a 0. You should find your saw and diagrams etc for any msiing parts plus prices. Not the cheapest but certainly easy. If you can't get working cool blocks at least you should be able to get the original guide blocks.
4) Don't understand what is broken on your guide - is it the clamp for the height? If the screw thread is stripped, then you could drill and tap it to the next size and get a new threaded knob.

Band saws are fun, there's a lot more abot selecting and tensioning blades. once you get your machine working.

[thiggy]

I have the same saw (only an older model) and noticed that the screw on the underside of the table seems to be missing. It goes on the front edge between the blade cut-out and helps keep the table stiff in front. Cool blocks are available for this saw, as well as a roller bearing blade support from Carter.

[Russianwolf]

4) Don't understand what is broken on your guide - is it the clamp for the height? If the screw thread is stripped, then you could drill and tap it to the next size and get a new threaded knob.
.

Loring, take a look at his last picture. Notice the set screw on the right side that prevents the right guide block from moving? That's his concern.

[sparkeyjames]

Try this welding stuff.

I have not personaly tried this stuff but have seen demo's of it on an infomercial about 3 or 4 years ago. Stuff seemed to work miracles.
Not sure how it will hold up to being drilled the taped for a new set screw but it beats buying a new part. If that part is even available.


http://www.shopping.com/xPC-Uni_Pro_Welding_Kit

[Duff]

found out tonight the guide & cool block bracket is aluminum. Ended up drilling from the top with my press & retapping the setscrews that way. Hit a sander on the blocks to smooth them up and did the dollar bill setting for tension/clearance. Also found out, I don't have a tire on the top wheel and the bottom wheel is seriously metal-dust impregnated. Looking online right now for more tires. I can't believe nearly 23 bucks EACH for a 12" bandsaw...that was Woodcraft. Rockler didn't have 12" from what I saw...
BTW, all that rust from the top pictures..>GONE!!!

Ideas for tires? Thank you all!!!

Duff

EDIT...by the way, the blade tracks very very smoothly on the top and bottom wheels. The top one has so much glue on it from where the tire used to be, but the noise I'm sure will drop considerably once new tires are installed.

Thank you

[sparkeyjames]

Carter has band saw tires.

Carter the people that make all kinds of bands saw products has these....


http://www.carterproducts.com/produc....asp?cat_id=15

much cheaper than the urethane ones but how many times will you be puting in new rubber when a set of urethane tires would still be running?

[cabinetman]

First, congratulations on a good buy. Other than the great tips so far, you might find tires that fit the same size wheels from another brand. As for the cool blocks, I made some from Corian scrap that worked great.I would adjust them so the teeth are just ahead (clear) of the blocks. I don't think JB weld is the way to go.

[Sid]

Suffolk Machinery has 12" urethane tires for $15 each:

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/band_saw_tires.asp

Read the rest of their website for an education on bandsaws and blades.

Sid

[eezlock]

opinions on repair and gloat...

You definately scored a good one there for $30.00...easily worth more than
that even if you have to spend a few hours on cleaning and buy some minor items including a new blade. eezlock

[Duff]

I caved in and bought a Carter Urethane 1" wide tire, Grizzley something 1/4" 15tpi blade and cleaned it up some more. Put the guard back on, tuned it in and works pretty decently. not happy w/the upper thrust bearing or my stock guide blocks. I'll work on them later!

Thanks all for the recommendations.