I just picked up this saw yesterday after much research. This site was definitely a great influence. I'm almost done assembling and tuning. The manual is not good IMHO. What's the deal with drawn pictures in every power tool manual? Would it kill em to take an actual picure?? That drives me nuts. So far the "hardest" part was putting the guard/splitter assembly on... I was cursing for a while before I realized that it would be far easier with the blade up. LOL.
I do have a few questions...
First, my rip fence will not move/slide at all when unlocked. It has to be removed completely from the table. It looks like there is a screw on the back of the rip fence to adjust the tension, but it is threadlocked (loctite) in place, implying it should rarely if ever need adjustment. Is this the right screw? How sensitive is it... should I be working in tiny 1/4 turn increments? Should I add more threadlock to it when I adjust?
Second, I have never used a table saw for crosscuts. Are there tricks to measuring and lining up everything with your mark where you want it cut? It looks like the most accurate way would be to put it in place and line it up with the front of the blade (looking from the rear) but I'm wondering if I'm missing something.
Is there some kind of wax that I can put on the table top and rip fence to slick it up without it coming off onto my work and making it a pain to stain/finish?
The instructions for the router table attachment mention that you should never use a ball bearing piloted bit with it. That sounds crazy to me... I've never seen say, a roundover bit *without* a bearing except for junk steel ones. What's the deal? Obviously you have to have the fence set right or bad things could happen. Do they just say that for liability reasons?
Anyways, this is a great place - tons of info! I've been reading and learning a lot the past couple days. Thank you for sharing all of your knowledge.
I do have a few questions...
First, my rip fence will not move/slide at all when unlocked. It has to be removed completely from the table. It looks like there is a screw on the back of the rip fence to adjust the tension, but it is threadlocked (loctite) in place, implying it should rarely if ever need adjustment. Is this the right screw? How sensitive is it... should I be working in tiny 1/4 turn increments? Should I add more threadlock to it when I adjust?
Second, I have never used a table saw for crosscuts. Are there tricks to measuring and lining up everything with your mark where you want it cut? It looks like the most accurate way would be to put it in place and line it up with the front of the blade (looking from the rear) but I'm wondering if I'm missing something.
Is there some kind of wax that I can put on the table top and rip fence to slick it up without it coming off onto my work and making it a pain to stain/finish?
The instructions for the router table attachment mention that you should never use a ball bearing piloted bit with it. That sounds crazy to me... I've never seen say, a roundover bit *without* a bearing except for junk steel ones. What's the deal? Obviously you have to have the fence set right or bad things could happen. Do they just say that for liability reasons?
Anyways, this is a great place - tons of info! I've been reading and learning a lot the past couple days. Thank you for sharing all of your knowledge.
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